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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: PhilipRuff on January 31, 2023, 03:53:07 PM
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Hey Everyone,
New to posting here but have visited from time to time. Cutting to the point of the post I recently inherited a Bear Grizzly from the 60s from my wife's grandfather. I expressed interest in it after seeing it hung up in his garage a few years back. The bow finish is okay but not great, some minor cracks in the resin on the riser don't have me concerned but leading away from the riser right above the window a crack is apparent almost in the center of the riser/limb along the length of the bow. I hope the pictures do it justice, just wanted some input and suggestions. Also the lower limb(third picture) has what looks like something similar developing. I'd like to get the bow fixed and shooting for sentimental purposes and to hopefully have it taken a deer someday by me or one of my son's. I'm no expert when it comes to resins and fiberglass but I did build a boat once that floated from the stuff :biglaugh:
Thanks All
-Phil
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Very common with bows from that era. I’ve seen worse, using your fingernail can you feel the crack?
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I am no expert on glass bows but it does not look to be an issue to me, cool bow so I hope it is ok or can be repaired.
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Very common with bows from that era. I’ve seen worse, using your fingernail can you feel the crack?
It barely hangs up on the nail, very fine on the upper limb. The bottom limb almost can't be felt.
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I am no expert on glass bows but it does not look to be an issue to me, cool bow so I hope it is ok or can be repaired.
I have a custom Rose Oak but always loved the Bears and hoped to own one someday. Finally do!
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Are we seeing the entire length of the cracks? It looks like it's localized to the fadeouts. I would make sure your string is the correct length first and then think about cleaning and wicking some thin adhesive in there.
If you were to draw a line that spanned the riser gap, would the two cracks line up?
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Are we seeing the entire length of the cracks? It looks like it's localized to the fadeouts. I would make sure your string is the correct length first and then think about cleaning and wicking some thin adhesive in there.
If you were to draw a line that spanned the riser gap, would the two cracks line up?
Yes, the cracks are local to the riser I can't see anything going up the limbs. Yes, the cracks do line up with one another. They're almost exactly in the center of the bow. What kind of adhesive would you recommend? Also with these older bows what string do people recommend?
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A garage is a good place to pick up moisture. That might have something to do with it, I'd keep it in the house . Doubt it will close the cracks, but won't hurt it either...
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A garage is a good place to pick up moisture. That might have something to do with it, I'd keep it in the house . Doubt it will close the cracks, but won't hurt it either...
Yeah, definitely keeping this old fella indoors now, hardly ever swings more then a degree year around in the house haha.
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B50 for older bows, not so much shock on the bow when the arrow leaves :thumbsup:
I have a 1961 (year I was born ) Kodiak Special
It has some fine cracks
(https://i.imgur.com/NVsmbx1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M1fG7sd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6983VSp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OfzWGJ4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/b2pKHeb.jpg)
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Very nice Mark
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Thanks Roy
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I've not seen a lot of Kodiaks, but I definitely have never seen one as nice as yours Mad Max. Thats a beauty!
Even epoxy is going to degrade and contract over time. Interesting that it is along a connecting line thru both limbs.
Makes one wonder if there was a minor flaw that took 60yrs to surface.
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That's a sharp looking bow, I'll grab a B50 and give it a stretch. If anyone else has some input I'm welcome to it, just wanted to prevent a catastrophic failure.
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That's a sharp looking bow, I'll grab a B50 and give it a stretch. If anyone else has some input I'm welcome to it, just wanted to prevent a catastrophic failure.
It will be fine :thumbsup:
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I've not seen a lot of Kodiaks, but I definitely have never seen one as nice as yours Mad Max. Thats a beauty!
Even epoxy is going to degrade and contract over time. Interesting that it is along a connecting line thru both limbs.
Makes one wonder if there was a minor flaw that took 60yrs to surface.
Thanks
If it was stored outside the riser could have swelled up and cracked the glass.
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That's a sharp looking bow, I'll grab a B50 and give it a stretch. If anyone else has some input I'm welcome to it, just wanted to prevent a catastrophic failure.
There is a method to filling those micro cracks for insurance using a thin CA or super glue. You have to be very careful doing it because that stuff is so thin it runs all over the place.
First you get the crack area dead level, and keep a rag handy. Put a few drops along the crack and it will wick into it. Do this until it puddles a bit, and no longer goes into the crack, then let it set until its dry. Then use 220 grit paper to sand smooth, then 320. Then Polishing it out with 0000 steel wool. You can bring it back to like new condition doing this.
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I would do like Kirk suggests, but add a little heat to the limb to enhance the wicking effect. I would also use some thin epoxy rather than CA, but thats a personal preference because I don't like CA glue for anything other than chemically welding certain plastics and rubbers.
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If you decide to wick CA into the cracks, I have used Loctite 420 with good results. But like Kirk said be very careful about application and controlling runs, cause the stuff likes to go renegade.
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I would do like Kirk suggests, but add a little heat to the limb to enhance the wicking effect. I would also use some thin epoxy rather than CA, but thats a personal preference because I don't like CA glue for anything other than chemically welding certain plastics and rubbers.
I agree with the heat when using thin epoxy, but not with thin CA. The CA is very hot stuff. Now I have used a heat gun after I’ve let the CA wick into the crack to accelerate the tying time, but not before.
It depends a lot on how big of crack you are filling. Bigger cracks or splits due to checking in riser blocks, you’ll have better luck with warm thin epoxy. I’ve heated it in the microwave for a few seconds before pouring it into larger cracks with good success……
I’ll bet that the huntsman epoxy would work well on filling cracks. It’s pretty thin stuff. EA-40 is too thick by itself without heating it up. Kirk
But…. With micro cracks in glass the CA works excellent….
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I've had excellent results using this, instead of the overpriced 420. Same thing viscosity. JF
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This is what i've been using.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C32ME6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1