Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Crooked Stic on April 28, 2023, 04:23:32 PM
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New form. Did one a while back and had terrible hand shock. This one will have more preload. I am thinking 19 or 20 riser for 60 in. bow. what you all think.
(https://i.imgur.com/0wUUizY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J7xV7kf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NNN5TG6.jpg)
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I have a 60" one piece I used s 20" riser it makes a good shooting bow. Haven't built one in years takedowns seem more popular. I need to build some.
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How much forward taper did you use Jess?
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I used .002 but back then everyone wanted 60 plus pounds. If building today's weights would go .001 or possibly. 0015.
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Yeah I had an OMC design that called for .004 FT. but most were above 50 pounds.
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I have been using less and less forward taper in my recurve limbs. Haven't noticed any negatives so far. The very first book I had with recurve instructions used all parallels.
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Seems to me you could get by parallel and work on the width taper. I got a Black Widow that has tapers (don't know how much) looks like .002 by eye ball and is tapered from fade to tip and maybe 1/2 at the grooves. Does have carbon twill on front and another thin black lam maybe stablecore only 38@28. But my guess they got the CNC to help :dunno:
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I have a 60" with a 20" riser---lam starts with a .005 then changes to .002
(https://i.imgur.com/Bf1vOKG.jpg)
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I've never regretted going with .001 FT on my static tip RC limbs, and drop to a par at lower draw weights. I think with 50# plus draw weights an .002 can be used without too much lateral or vertical stability issues just using glass, but anything lower i want more meat at the base of that curl to hold it stable... Nothing worse than fighting limb tracking issues... I've had some light weight bows that you had to be careful which way the string loops were flipped on a flemish loop to keep it tracking straight...
I like your limb shape Mike. I think it will do well once you find the sweet spot on the hook for your tip notchesand the right string length. What exact length you end up with, and the amount of preload is a crap shoot on a prototype one piece.
I always prefered to do my new limb shape prototyping on TD limbs so i can adjust the preload a bit with limb pad angle using an adjustable riser. I also use different string lengths to get the things dialed in. That, and find the best tip notch location on the hook.... After i get things bending right and max performance and stability, I adjust limb butt length to hit AMO bow length, then i measure from the string back to the deepest part of the grip location at 7.25" ......
then..... i reverse engineer to a one piece.... This gives you room for adjustments to get the max out of your limb geometry. If you aren't happy with it, you have the option of shifting the stops on your form, use different taper rates and wedges, and go again. Or worst case, build another short form with a different shape.
I wish you luck on it.... could be a winner.... Kirk
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So Max sort of a built in power lam?
I have two sleds like that and one has a built in tip wedge and the power lam---Kenny called it superman. But I think they are stepper than .005. 010 maybe.
Yes sir Kirk I hate tracking issues.
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Yes
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I use a double ended power lam milled at 30” length for a 20” riser tip to tip on the fades. This gives you the same effect as the multi taper laminations and it’s easy to lay up. This power lam just goes on the back of the riser…
Kirk
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A bit of an update.I use a drill jig for form strap holes that way no fighting drill press. Bottom half ready for spacers
(https://i.imgur.com/izmV3jE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J9ubqVN.jpg)
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Back down in the form that is the same way I built my form. Works great. Looking forward to seeing a finished bow.
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Would be interesting to see the taper rate on that Widow. You could measure the thickness on a limb 10-12 inches apart and se how much it tapers.
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Yes Jess easier for me to bend around than into a curve.
Bue I may check the Widow today.
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The Widow is .004 FT 62 in. 38@28 but like I said carbon front and some other black thin lam in it also
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Where are you measuring the FT at on the limb Mike? .004 sounds extreme to me….
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Measured it about mid limb. in 6 inches was 024 difference. I used to buld a OMC design that had .004. All of them was above 50. Like I said the Widow is carbon back with another thin black lam in the mix :dunno:
Anyhow I got some done on the form and a riser profile jig made.I got a bit carried away with the bondo and had to break out the CNC sanding block :biglaugh:
(https://i.imgur.com/jP5DriI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oGfdtbG.jpg)
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Are you going to edge band that form? or leave the plywood end grain as is?
What are you going to use to seal that form Mike? I've been using shellac on mine because its cheap, and it holds up well over the years with a couple heavy coats.
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The form getting close. Just need to figure a stack.Got a piece maple for a riser once I get it figured out.
(https://i.imgur.com/q4ckRy5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d08mOTE.jpg)
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Looking good Mike. A .250 stack in mine would give about 50#. Our profiles look very similar makes a very good shooting bow.
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How much forward taper Jess.
This one will be 60 in.and I am starting with a built in power lam that will 4 in. Past the fades on a 20 inch riserr .250 or .260 may be a good starting point. Rather be light on the first one and be able to shoot it than being too heavy.. .001 taper
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Used .002 forward taper.
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Mike I have a old Savage Deathmaster that has a similar profile that uses a .002 forward taper. It measures .250 at the fadeout and is 57# . Unfortunately to heavy for me.
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Okay am goin .260 stack thickest part with .001 FT Ready for dry run then one under pressure tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/cGPE5c1.jpg)
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Hey Mike, I’m working on this one piece right now. I checked weight on it today strung up with my limb hooks. At roughly 61” full length it scaled at 48.36 pounds. It has .001 taper, .257 stack, 1 5/8” wide and my riser is 15 1/2” long. It’s a little bit different design than yours but hopefully it helps with your stack decision. What are you shooting for in a final weight?
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45 or less. Being I have a 20 in. Riser and 60 in. bow I may want to reduce the stack.
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Yes sir I would guess at .260 you will be over fifty.
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Okay I went with 220 stack.Had to do sligth adjustment to close a small gap at fade. First one under pressure in hotbox. and some dark blue stable maple
(https://i.imgur.com/Jta6rX2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W86vAuG.jpg)
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Are you using 1.75” materials Mike?
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Yes 1.75 and with clean up will be 1.625. I did not use carbon but stablecore on the belly side because it was too short for the front. Have always put it under the front veneer. Could be better or worse ??
I will also add this wood I have been stabilizing grinds and drills the old Rutland diamondwood. I think they redone the formula on Cactus juice.
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I have always put Stabilkore under my back taper as well so I can’t tell you if it makes a difference or not. I’m curious to see where you end up with your stack. I took mine down to 1.5” wide today and filed in my grooves at 58”. I rechecked my weight and I’m a tick over 46# now.
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This will have about 16 in. Working limb versus 14 on my TDs and the stack should be about 40 :dunno:
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First one is a guess, and the second one is an educated guess.
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And dats da turf fer sure :laughing:
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First one is a guess, and the second one is an educated guess.
And if the 3rd one don't hit .....its an aw chit guess.... :biglaugh: That should be ok on torsional stability with the non aggressive hooks. you'll know once you get a string on it...
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Well I got it all blanked out tips tapered and tillering blocks to find top limb Fade tiller Just a twidge off. I actually thought the limbs would have more hook but oh well. I am thinking the poundage will be good. Took most of the day curing riser overlay and tip overlays.But did get the overlays glued on the tips so can go with it tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/9T2XvWM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yLJ5Y1C.jpg)
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Nice Stic :thumbsup:
Did you add tip Underlays ?
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Yeah they are curing now.
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Okay first check 50@28
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After a bit of work gonna be about [email protected] it or not this thing has quite a bit of preload Could be the built in power lam goes about 4 in. past the fades. It took some adjustment to get it pulling straight. Maple on the belly.
(https://i.imgur.com/d0GPWsY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ifJDEIl.jpg)
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Nice
Alot like what I build :bigsmyl:
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Well I almost screwed up and got the throat too small. I glued a couple of pieces on the front to beef it up a bit. This one may be a good canidate for a leather grip.
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Got some turquois maple overlays and tips. Maybe spray tomorrow
(https://i.imgur.com/fjfHqMJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hP6vOYH.jpg)
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I can’t wait to see that turquoise with some finish on it. Looking good.
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Stic I like the jig to hold the limb. I am going to make one of them
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Yes sir those holder thingys come in handy. I also made one with the curve the other way to use when filing the belly grooves.
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Looking good Stic.
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Got any tiller tree photos of that baby drawing 28- 30-32" . I'd like to see where she's loading up. Kirk
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Got it sprayed today will have pics tomorrow it looks pretty good at 28 with .001.
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Looks pretty good but not as planned. One front overlay even stabilized still porus and got a hairline crack,so a little redo. Have not used Gordons glass for awhile this is super clear am surpised.
(https://i.imgur.com/iDFh1h4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FvuM7HW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lZZJgMC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HjmzAQr.jpg)
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Gordons has been better than BP for awhile now, hoping they can keep it that way! :pray:
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The part about Gordon's is buy by the strip and not by the inch. This build has a 6 in. And a 10 in. Left over. About all you can do with it is tip overlays.
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Yep, but if it's better glass, it's worth a few bucks per bow. Over 20 years, $20 ain't too bad... ;)
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Venting :biglaugh:
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Yeah I liked the cut to length too and it used to be super clear. Wish they would get their shi , I mean stuff together!! :biglaugh:
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Thats what is nice about light colored veneers... You don't see the imperfections in the glass as much. With darker veneers it shows up every flaw.
Lets see this baby on the tiller tree, or at full draw Mike. I'd like to see how your limbs are bending. Kirk
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Well the front has dark walnut and pert near perfect.
And it fell on the rocks while taking pics had a slight redo on the finish I will try to get a bending vid or pic tomorrow.
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Well the front has dark walnut and pert near perfect.
And it fell on the rocks while taking pics had a slight redo on the finish I will try to get a bending vid or pic tomorrow.
Ahhhhhh Man! Don't you hate it when that happens? I've got to the point i let my finish dry for at least 36 hours before i even touch them... Murphys law... Chit happens... :banghead: :banghead:
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Ok this is all you get. just a twidge over 28. i cant see a lot I would change. What you guys think
(https://i.imgur.com/d7z9jux.jpg)
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What kind of finish you using there Kirk?
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I think it looks awesome Mike, bending pretty nice for my inexperience eyes! :thumbsup:
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Ok this is all you get. just a twidge over 28. i cant see a lot I would change. What you guys think
(https://i.imgur.com/d7z9jux.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/E1f34iz.jpg)
I wanted to see how much it looks like mine---Nice stic
(https://i.imgur.com/SpJL3cD.jpg)
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Lookin fine Stic! :thumbsup:
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Max your tips maybe working a little more. Is that pic at 28 in.
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Yes stic 28"
and yes the recurves are working more :thumbsup:
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Forward taper .001 or .002 ?
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very nice!
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.002 but has a built in power lam
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Mine is .001 with built in PL about 4 in. Past fades on 20 in. Riser.
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Ok this is all you get. just a twidge over 28. i cant see a lot I would change. What you guys think
(https://i.imgur.com/d7z9jux.jpg)
I like your red neck tiller tree there Mike. :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Decent looking string angle on that thing. Looks like a winner to me.
Your hooks are not opening up much at all, and that’s a good thing…. Are you using tip wedges?
Thanks for the photo… made my whole day. :biglaugh:
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No tip wedge I thought about using one until I used my redneck tiller thingy. Also thinking about one of those fancy tiller trees----not sure where I have room to put it.
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[/quote] From Kirk
Your hooks are not opening up much at all, and that’s a good thing
[/quote]
Explain please
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Some like semi or static tips never quite understood why.
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Smoother and quieter in my experience. Statics have become my favorite design.
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I think it looks awesome Mike, bending pretty nice for my inexperience eyes! :thumbsup:
I’ve been using an auto clear coat for quite a few years now. I found a product that is pretty user friendly, absolutely clear as glass, and holds up real well after it’s cured properly…. That’s the trick…. getting it done, and keep it above 70 degrees for 36 hours before messing with it.
Btw…. This stuff is half the cost of most auto clear coats, and far superior to any epoxy clear coat like Thunderbird … that stuff yellows out with age and is NOT user friendly at all by comparison.
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the next one has tip overlays glued on and prolly get it strung tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/trYtr1G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Qb5d9u5.jpg)
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What wood is the riser Stic??
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Riser is stabilized maple . Kinda got some burl stripes and a bit of splat in it. With black diamondwood Ibeam.
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That’s gonna make a sweet, looking bow. Stic. :o
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I think it looks awesome Mike, bending pretty nice for my inexperience eyes! :thumbsup:
I’ve been using an auto clear coat for quite a few years now. I found a product that is pretty user friendly, absolutely clear as glass, and holds up real well after it’s cured properly…. That’s the trick…. getting it done, and keep it above 70 degrees for 36 hours before messing with it.
Btw…. This stuff is half the cost of most auto clear coats, and far superior to any epoxy clear coat like Thunderbird … that stuff yellows out with age and is NOT user friendly at all by comparison.
Hey Kirk, so is that product An acrylic urethane ? I’ve researched different products here in Canada that are auto clears. I can’t get that exact product, but it seems like there are similar clears out there that are 4:1 with the medium activator to add to it, the only options I find are gloss finish how do you knock that gloss off to become a matte finish? Cheers Bryan
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I got th e first coats on today got a couple of pits to fill here is the riser
(https://i.imgur.com/997y8rh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6L2hfCC.jpg)
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SWEET !! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Looking good as always.
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Looking good as always.
X2
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35@28. more pics
(https://i.imgur.com/d1pxiET.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AtpFeTn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XEpf3NL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FsYsOfK.jpg)
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Very nice!
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Nice work Mike! :notworthy:
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Thanks Tony
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I got #3 shooting today. I went with the superlam built in PL and TW. 1/8 stronger bottom limb and tapered further back to maybe 10 in. This one quiteter with less brace than #2 :dunno: Anyhow all Camo.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ks1gx3q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hKnB8by.jpg)
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I think it looks awesome Mike, bending pretty nice for my inexperience eyes! :thumbsup:
I’ve been using an auto clear coat for quite a few years now. I found a product that is pretty user friendly, absolutely clear as glass, and holds up real well after it’s cured properly…. That’s the trick…. getting it done, and keep it above 70 degrees for 36 hours before messing with it.
Btw…. This stuff is half the cost of most auto clear coats, and far superior to any epoxy clear coat like Thunderbird … that stuff yellows out with age and is NOT user friendly at all by comparison.
Hey Kirk, so is that product An acrylic urethane ? I’ve researched different products here in Canada that are auto clears. I can’t get that exact product, but it seems like there are similar clears out there that are 4:1 with the medium activator to add to it, the only options I find are gloss finish how do you knock that gloss off to become a matte finish? Cheers Bryan
This product is also high gloss.... That's what you want too. High gloss has more solids and gives you a better finish... I spray a fine textured finish using a bit more air pressure and less material mixture, and a bit more distance from the surface when spraying to get a fine mist..... Or if you want a hand rubbed smooth as glass finish in satin. Just sand it to 400 grit, and polish it with 0000 steel wool.
Here is what's on the can, and the manufacture info.... I have no idea if its a urethane or not, but i highly doubt its acrylic.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MzRnnt9BJKc4EFrZ6
Hey Mike, THAT is a sharp looking bow! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Is that marble wood veneers? or what? Kirk
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Camo spectraply
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Okay number three done way quiteter than 2. diffrences are built in tip wedge 1/8 stronger bottom limb and tip profile narrower and tapered back further. ! was quite to :dunno:
(https://i.imgur.com/ALw2Py9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tcXzq8a.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nKBNv79.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wo17FXG.jpg)
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Dont ya hate it when you sand past your I beam like that bro?
It's amazing what a tip wedge can do for a bow, isn't it.
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Sand past I Beam me likey look....
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Sand past I Beam me likey look....
Kind of defeats the purpose, but that spectra ply should hold up just fine by itself.
The one that really beat me up was shaping the strike plate on a pierce point riser.
The geometric shape is what determines the pattern of the Pearce points.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/657xhu97GSwnJfo28
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that sand past the Ibeam was almost a tomato stake desaster. Band saw blade had a mind of its own. Had the bow been more weight I would have added some on the right side. And that was 1.5 spectra so I ripped and sanded and add Ibeam to get 1.75
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that sand past the Ibeam was almost a tomato stake desaster. Band saw blade had a mind of its own. Had the bow been more weight I would have added some on the right side. And that was 1.5 spectra so I ripped and sanded and add Ibeam to get 1.75
Nice save bro.... :clapper: :clapper:
Hey... What was the veneer material on that stabilized maple bow? kind of a yellow color with lightning bolts running through it.... Reminds me of Marble wood a lot... It's not for everyone, but i like the looks of that stuff myself. I'm still sitting on some of that stuff i bough quite awhile ago. Kirk
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Spalted maple. I was looking at some on hebay and they are calling it ink line maple :biglaugh:
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Sure has a yellow cast to it for maple….. cool looking stuff. :thumbsup:
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Got another one done today. 60 in. [email protected] osage and figured walnut.
(https://i.imgur.com/8QXgeyR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CzaDRYf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YJmz3Aj.jpg)
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup: that’s a looker :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Very nice Mike !