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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: John johnston on February 03, 2024, 03:57:50 PM
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My 1st. attempt at a board bow.
Board bow maple backed with hickory. 68” parrell out to 14” then tapper to 3/8 @knock.
Target 40#@28”.
Question: Pic is at 20” ,36# left kock at 1/2” shorter than right. Should I weaken left limb or is it close enough? I have not pulled past 21” at this time.
Hope pics came though. New to me. Any input is welcome.
John
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That looks pretty darn close to me. :thumbsup: Make that left side the bottom and you are good to go :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Nice job on your first board bow.... I'm going to try my first one on the bow swap this year. :o :o :o
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Thanks
Going to pull to 28” tomorrow and see where I’m at.
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Cool… I’ll be following your progress….
I’m going to be experimenting with a very high density bamboo flooring material I found about a year ago. It’s called fossilized bamboo. I’ve build quite a few glass backed bows with it and it’s extremely high in tensile strength, and the hardness is unsurpassed on the janka rating. I think it will be a good candidate for a laminated board bow because it’s a woven strand material impregnated with epoxy, and shouldn’t have any issues with grain run out, or shaping.
So it’s not really a board bow in technically terms, because the material has been manufactured. But it might make an outstanding bow without glass. Keep an eye open on the bow swap thread. I’ll post my first experiments on there as I put it together, and take video’s of drawing it. Might be some fireworks going on…. Lol
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That eliptical tiller looks looks awesome, great job! Cant wait to see it at a full 28" draw.
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Looks damn good, congrats..
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That looks very good.
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Looks xcellent to me too. Just stay off the 1st third (off fades) of the right limb and you’re on your way!
Jon
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If it’s a straight limbed bow, Both limbs look a bit soft in the inner third with the right limb a bit more so than the left. I like the see the first 4-5” or so of a limb to look a bit stiff but still working when I have a parallel section in the front profile.
Kyle
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Should I thin out the outer limbs ?
I am at 46#@28”, my target weight is 40#@28”
I’m redoing my tillering tree so I can take picture at fun draw. I’ll post picture when I get it done.
Thanks for input
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What type of draw weight loss do you expect from compression and string follow as you get it broke in? I would imagine these all wood bows do lose some draw weight after awhile. For the sake of 6#, you may just want to call it good, and start shooting it... :dunno: :dunno:
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When I’m tillering I generally stop 2” short of my intended draw length with the weight I want. Between shooting in and sanding it’s generally dead on. Which would equate to about 5-6#. Some bows don’t seem to lose any breaking in and I end up a little over weight and some a little more than expected. But if you shoot it in as you tiller out it should be pretty close. Once I get a bow pulling around 22” or so I’ll start short draw shooting it to settle in any changes.
But it sounds like your dead on for getting what your wanting.
Kyle
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I wanted to shoot it before I took any more off. I’m making antler tip overlays before it shoot it.
Made a better tiller tree so I can take pictures at 24,28”. I’ll post them when I do it.
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I wanted to shoot it before I took any more off. I’m making antler tip overlays before it shoot it.
Made a better tiller tree so I can take pictures at 24,28”. I’ll post them when I do it.
You want to put several coats on the antler the day before because it will suck up a lot of glue and just pop off.
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Max
I was going to use superglue. Can you please explain .thx
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Max
I was going to use superglue. Can you please explain .thx
Deer antler is porous, put some SG on it and a few hours later more again to fill the pores , then SG it to the bow later.
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:thumbsup:
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John I would shoot the cr_ap out of it before I spent more time adding tip overlays- dont ask why :banghead:
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Max
I was going to use superglue. Can you please explain .thx
Deer antler is porous, put some SG on it and a few hours later more again to fill the pores , then SG it to the bow later.
I’ve got to the point that I just don’t use antler tip overlays any more. I’ve had way to many of them pop off even after sealing them good… Horn material is much safer.
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Kirkll
I was going to glue Bubinga on tip with TB3 then deer antler on Bubinga with super glue. Tip is 3/8 “I haven’t shaped it yet. Just don’t want it to blow up. Lol. Your thoughts?
Thx
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Kirkll
I was going to glue Bubinga on tip with TB3 then deer antler on Bubinga with super glue. Tip is 3/8 “I haven’t shaped it yet. Just don’t want it to blow up. Lol. Your thoughts?
Thx
If you insist.... Do as Mark suggested and get a good dry fit from the antler to your bubinga where no light is coming through, then seal the antler material with several coats of super glue, or even epoxy and let it cure out good. Like over night cure. Then sand it again and use thick super glue, or epoxy. when its done make sure your string groves are applying all the pressure to the bubinga, and don't use the antler to carry any load..... Damn stuff is too brittle...... Now i have heated the antler material before and bent it into shape rather than sand so much. But... its still a pain in the arse.
I had my best luck with laminating a couple pieces of phenolic then a thicker wood lam together with super glue and clamped to the reflex shape of my limb to dry, then i'd sand that top piece of wood flat, and apply my sealed antler material flat over the wood. Then when i filed my string groves , i'd go clear through the antler so its only there for looks and not strength...... Like i said... Pain in the arse. Especially when the bow comes back in a years time and you have to do it again... Good luck with that... Kirk
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Thanks for the advise. That’s why I’m on the site.
:knothead: No tip overlay for me. Lol
Took some short draw shots this evening. Bows is drawing 46.5#@28”
How long should I shoot it before taking off weight. Target is 40#
Guess my next step is shaping handle.
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Well I’m at 43#@28” draw . Target was 40#.
For my 1st bow, should I call it good or is there more tillering needed?
I’ll post some pic after I finish it.
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Another pic
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I'd leave it there. No sense in messing with something that good.
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For a wooden bow this one definitly has too much bend and stress on the inners. I'd suggest to scrape some midlimbs on both limbs. Apart from that it looks nicely symmetrical and seems pretty good work!
cheers