Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Mole trapper on March 03, 2024, 11:22:45 AM
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Hi all,
As a newbie I am binge watching a lot of trad hunting videos , I notice a lot if guys are using woods, is this because they are more effective? Or because of a purist approach being that they are using a wooden bow? I only currently have carbons, but not averse to trying woods in fact I rather fancy the idea
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Not sure if you're talking arrows, bows, or both. Certainly for both they are more "traditional". For arrows if you've never shot woodies they're worth a try. Absolutely nothing wrong with carbon limbs or arrows. It is just your choice and preference. I used to hand make all my woodies and enjoyed shooting and using them. I have shot them all and to me the only important thing is that the arrow is tuned to your bow and flies straight. Have fun and experiment.
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Thank you for your reply. I'm sorry I probably didn't make myself clear, I did mean arrows .
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For myself it's wood arrows. I guess it's more of a purist thing. I've been shooting a longbow exclusively for 44 years now and I did shoot some aluminums out of it in my early stages. Carbons weren.t even around yet. I love making a nice matched set of nice wood arrows that I can outshoot my friends with who are shooting carbons. I have never owned a carbon arrow so I guess that makes me a bit biased. Starting out you may not want to learn the idiosyncrasies of shooting wood at first.
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I've been shooting wood with trad bows
since the mid 1980's and don't plan to change. Back in my training wheel days I shot aluminum but only because wood wasn't recommended. I also make my own wood arrows from store bought shafting, shafting turned by friends, cane and hardwood shoot shafts like sourwood and red osier dogwood.
Even though I do have a few glass lam bows I mostly shoot selfbows or wood, bamboo or sinew backed bows.
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I just like wood better, just like the warm feeling better than cold aluminum or carbon.
I also think they are more forgiving with a poor release. :archer:
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I enjoy carrying and shooting wood arrows the most… even though there are a lot of logical reasons to shoot carbon.
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For me the decision is based on what will consistently be part of a high rate of accuracy in placing the arrow where I want it to hit. I shoot wood, carbon and aluminum and I base my choice simply on what provides me the best results. I don't choose based on nostalgia simply because what works for someone does not necessarily mean it will work for me. My current setup for Turkey includes a carbon arrow with weight tubes, and my setup for this fall will be hard rock maple wood arrows. They all work well as long as you get the results you are after. The beauty is having choices.
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Started with wood in 1969 and stayed with wood until the mid 70's where I transitioned to aluminum and then to carbon in the early 90's... quite satisfied with carbons.
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I use all 3. Carbons for durability, aluminum because it’s easier for me to tune, wood for old times sake. There is a learning curve with wood arrows. Such as storing them correctly, keeping them straight, how changes in humidity can affect them. Now making them is my way of relaxing and forgetting my aches and pains.
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I shot wood for more than 50 years, but I'm shooting more carbons now, in part because wood has become so expensive, even though I make my own arrows. And, carbon is just a lot more durable. Though the up front cost for carbons is more, because they're more durable, the longer term costs will be less. I still use mostly wood for hunting though. Just as accurate and a bit quieter off the bow.
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I was in the testing mode and took tapered wood, aluminum, and carbon(Beman 400, 340, Warriors and AD); all within a dozen grains of weight. At about 18-20 yards they all clumped together, at 25-30 yards the wood started to spread out a little(8-10"). Aluminum and carbon were still tight. At 35-40 yards the carbons were still clumping. As you might imagine I hunt predominantly with tapered, footed wood, good to 20+ yards. I sometimes hunt hogs with aluminum(2219), so as not to damage my beauties. Have never hunted with carbons, just don't see the need. These results are all from 63-66# bows recurve and D/R longbow. Have a smattering of carbons that I will throw on occasion and recently acquired some CX Heritage carbons I am impressed with. Still don't feel the need to hunt with anything other than what I have for a long time. Wood is good. IMVHO but YMMV. If I was going to be taking longer 30-40 yard shots I might be persuaded to adjust.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
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Some Brill feedback there fellas, really appreciate it.
I think I should get some woods made up and give them a try for curiosity sake.
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My experience has been that 10-11 GPP with my bows leaves my woodies laying on the ground on the other side, so no breakage.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
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I an a hunter, and shoot tradbows only. I shoot mostly carbon and also some woods from time to time. Mostly from the 2 selfbows I made.
Try a half dozen of each. :bigsmyl:
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I'm like dnovo, I've never owned a carbon. I can usually get wood shafts for a dollar or a little more a shaft. I make a lot of my own fletching from wild turkey feathers and have friends save them for me so wood arrows are inexpensive for me which is important because I do a lot of small game hunting. I also like that they are more traditional and I enjoy making them. If someone wasn't equipped to make arrows or didn't have the time, I would think carbon or aluminum would probably be the way to go though.
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Yet again, thanks for your input fellas, I really do appreciate it. I have decided to buy some wooden shafts, I bought a bohning jig and a load of feathers etc last night on line, everything is a lot more expensive over here as it all comes from over there.
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I only make and shoot wood arrows. I enjoy making my own for sure. I have 6 Bitzenbergers which speeds up the process. The Bohning jig does a nice job also.
Have fun!!!! >>>-------->
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Just a note when making your wood arrows. Be sure to learn to orient the nock the correct way with the wood grain of the shaft and also to make sure the nocks are glued on straight. That's the most important part to me. A crooked nock will not allow an arrow to fly straight.
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Duly noted :thumbsup:
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I also enjoy both wood and carbons. Don't use aluminums at all anymore as I don't see a need.
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I build my own woodies. It's fun!
To be fair, I've shot carbon and aluminums out of my trad bows as well, but hard to beat the smell of fresh cedar shafts and the enjoyment of creating something out of a pile of sticks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4503/37412432714_9344783ef3_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4556/38089517365_0182b8d65a_z.jpg)
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Pretty cresting Kirk.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
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Here are some I recently made.
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Pretty cresting Kirk.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
Thanks! They were fun to build! The blue ones I made for my son for Christmas a few years back. :campfire:
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Here are some I recently made.
Those are gorgeous! Especially the green ones.
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My arrows are utility versions. Maybe a crown dip and stain.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
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Some lovely looking arrows there. Making my own really appeals as I do leatherwork and made a few knives, so anything like this I am drawn to.
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Looking at our limited supplies over here, I can get port Orford cedar, German spruce, or bearpaw spruce shafts, in 11/32 or 5/16 , unfortunately we have tge ridiculous metric system over here, so I don't know which size to choose, the bearpaw are the most expensive shafts at £2.20 each, I definitely want to buy the best quality I can.
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Well I love wood arrows...but if you aren't very adept at tuning for spine, like we all were starting out.. Carbon lend themselves to the tuning process a little easier..Wood arrows are each very individual, being a natural fiber. If you start with wood I wood definitely advise buying a spine test kit, not a bunch that you THINK are close. Every bow, every archer, every fletching, every knock, might be right for one setup But shoot a little different for the next guy\girl. I have been amazed how one how only 2-3# different from one bow to the next won't shoot the same arrow. Just my experience, get a half dozen or more in pairs of different spine..two in say 40-45, two on 45-50- two in 50-55 and so on with what you think is the right spine smack dab in the middle of the variety you order. The # that you draw the bow to is the key. Anchor and release and form make a difference. At the beginning you may find you like X, then a month later may like Y, having some choices at the beginning will make the process less daunting\Crazy. Again..Wood arrows are somewhat like fingerprints.. say you find what spine.and point you like, and purchase a dozen..get them all setup with points and nocks..then shoot them all at your favorite target..don't be surprised to find that out of that dozen you only really like 9..and the other three really fly different. And then halfway through summer only 3 of the original are your favourites.. I have found that wood can also gain weight in the form of moisture.. Then there's straighteing, you WILL have to straighten your arrows, and the process of straightening I have found to at times on certain arrows affect the spine. All in all its just a question of how much effort you deem worth what you are achieving. I love wood arrows! But wouldn't subject a new archer to the process on his\her own. Once you have your basics down using carbon I'd say have at it! With carbon once you have your arrow figured out you could buy two dozen arrows and points cut them and assemble them just like the one you tuned to your liking and they all pretty much fly like a clone of the first..without getting into the nock tuning masters degree stuff..lol! as far as accuracy goes..if the arrow is tuned for your bow\you..there ain't a discernible difference that I can quantify. The carbon are just a bit easier..for me..but I still enjoy shooting wood...hunted all last year with wood..but really hate it when I have to change out a broken nock and the glue peels the nock taper off a wood shaft I have worked on to get flying perfect..replacing nocks on carbon is a breeze. anyhow just a few of my thoughts..
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My goodness! That's got to be the most detailed and comprehensive reply I've ever had to a question on any forum! Thank you so much for taking the time to do that.
As a relative newbie to all of this I have so many questions, it must get monotonous reading so many questions that have most likely been asked before. I have noticed that there is a real will to help on this particular place, I am so great full to have found it.
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Wood can be interesting. I personally prefer tapered shafts or tapered and footed shafts. They seem to fly more consistently for me. My main hunting bows ranges from 63-66#, two longbows and a recurve. That lets me shoot the same arrows from all three bows. I have lighter and heavier bows, that need different arrows. Personally, I find carbons very finicky and hard to tune. I cause that woodies have been a part of my shooting history for so long they just fit. Also shoot a few heavy Easton aluminum arrows that I like. 22xx shafts. The journey makes it all worth it.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire: