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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Crooked Stic on June 08, 2024, 07:47:53 PM
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For you guys in the know on ILF I am getting a 11 in. Riser.
I am wanting to get the shortest longbow limbs possible 40@28.
On average going shorter riser ups draw weight by how much an inch?
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For you guys in the know on ILF I am getting a 11 in. Riser.
I've never seen an 11” ILF riser. Didn't know they made them that short. The rule of thumb is to add about 1# of draw weight for each inch your riser is shorter than the stated length of riser for the limbs. This assumes that the angles of the limb pockets are the same for both risers. So if you buy limbs that are stated to be 40# on a 17” riser, they should be about 46# on an 11” riser. The rule of thumb works pretty for small differences, but an 11” riser is getting pretty extreme. If I were you, I wouldn't buy the limbs unless you had the right to return them unless the weight on your riser was within a reasonable range of what you hope to get.
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Toxocraft. Dark brown diamondwood. Kinda cute to. Anyhow the search for limbs mY be interesting :bigsmyl:
Thanks
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This is not my chart and the data is a an approximation but perhaps you can extrapolate to a smaller riser.
One does have to know the riser limb weight rating. My long limbs are rated at 45lbs on a 17 inch riser by the manufacture. Change from a 17 inch riser and the draw weight changes. The chart uses a 25 inch riser as a base. The base the limb manufacture uses may be different. Something to check out.
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Thanks.
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If what I read is correct? about 2# per inch. But, that’s not necessarily true from limb maker to limb maker as I found out using and weighing the same set of limbs on 3 different risers. You have to take into account the angle of the limb pads as well.
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I am starting to find out all this stuff about pocket angles etc.
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So i'm still waiting to hear more about the 11 inch riser .... If you use the formula above and work backwards you have 11-5= 6 inches between riser bolts? Doesn't seem like there is enough room there to me, for a grip and a place to put the arrow? I'm not calling foul or anything like that, I'm just very interested in what is going on. I looked on the builders web site and they don't offer that size yet or even a 13 inch riser it seems, if I was in the right place.
So you must have a very short draw. If you do manage to set up a bow like that with the shortest limbs it will likely start stacking at about 25 inches i predict ... just sayen' ... always good to experiment. Maybe the builder is making an overdraw sort of riser like the Shrew .....
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Here you go.
Think of putting longbow limbs on it that would 64 on a 19 in, just don't know what weight to buy to get 40@28
Pretty sure will be canting to shoot.
Another guy on LW said he has short curve limbs with no stack at 29.
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Well that is a compact riser for sure ... So I have a buddy who is certifiable bow crazy and he has accumulated much ILF bow parts. I shot one of his 13 inch risers with extra long border static recurve limbs and at my 30 inch draw (more like 29 on heavy longbows) I was able to draw comfortably without the limb stacking. But he had me try another setup the next time with a 15 inch riser and some high end ILF limbs that were I think mediums ....
they stacked bad for me. The thing is you can go ahead and shoot it that way if you want. But it will be hard on the limbs and pretty difficult to be accurate with. You want the limbs to only increase about 2 pounds per inch of draw at the end of the draw. This is much easier to get nearly the same amount of thrust on the arrow each time you shoot. If the weight is going up crazy like five pounds per inch you will be shooting all over the place. This is really important shooting off the shelf to having the same amount of thrust on the arrow each time. Hopefully that will help understand why folks tend to avoid stacking.
Another important consideration is some makers do tend to compensate ILF risers so that there may be less difference in weight between a 25" and an 17" maybe even no difference in weight. so the limb pockets on a target ILF 25" riser may be strait up and down but on the shorter risers the limbs are tilted back more and more. I have talked to one maker who claimed his risers are fully compensated no guessing ....
So the one to ask would be the guy making your riser. He is the only one who has a chance of knowing what weight gain or loss your going to have with your compact riser ....
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I just got a PM from the maker and he said with the Limb angle that figuring on a 15 in. Riser should get me close.
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Why aren't you building your own ILF risers Stic?
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I really have no interest in building them. I got the Sanlida Hermit X10 because it was cheap (Chiniseum) just to try. The quality of this bow surpasses any made for that price. Honestly never thought I would think that. Look up Jeff Phillips on utube Mystery bow. For now I am just seeing if I even like them.
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I really have no interest in building them. I got the Sanlida Hermit X10 because it was cheap (Chiniseum) just to try. The quality of this bow surpasses any made for that price. Honestly never thought I would think that. Look up Jeff Phillips on utube Mystery bow. For now I am just seeing if I even like them.
I was just curious Stic.... It would be difficult to do without a milling machine, but they are actually pretty interesting to build.
Believe it or not, the highest performance recurve limbs i've ever built were in ILF format on one of my own risers, but the ILF limbs are a bit intense to build and get that limb butt shaped just right. I mill a G-10 plate on the bottom of my standard SS recurve limbs.
This one was Smokin!
https://goo.gl/photos/XRykbXpgWy8rzbvt5
Kirk
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When you say smokin what kind a fps?
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Over 200 FPS at 10.5 GPP... seriously fast. Bamboo back, maple belly, 40/40 BG static tip Sasquatch SS design at 30" draw length around 62#.
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Feathers on fire I bet. What is 40/40 BG
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Over 200 FPS at 10.5 GPP... seriously fast. Bamboo back, maple belly, 40/40 BG static tip Sasquatch SS design at 30" draw length around 62#.
What do you reckon made that particular set of limbs so fast?
And how was it faster than your standard non-ILF static limbs?
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I have owned 15" riser but that was as short as I like to go. Shorter risers require longer limbs and I find that I get more vibration. As you get a shorter riser you also get a smaller sight window. There is a reason why most hunting ILF bows have a 17" or 19" riser.
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True of the sight window. But I cant so not a problem. And this may be something I don't like or not we will see.
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Just chiming in with what I think most everyone else has already said. You gain 1# per 1" the lower you go over the listed rating on the limbs. Most limbs I've seen are rated on a 25" or a 17" riser. So if you're using an 11" riser, you would add either 14# or 6# respectively. Not sure what your draw length is but I'd opt for Long or XL's if you're using LB limbs on them. That'd give a 56-58" overall bow length and should be ok up to 28"-29" draw or so.
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Over 200 FPS at 10.5 GPP... seriously fast. Bamboo back, maple belly, 40/40 BG static tip Sasquatch SS design at 30" draw length around 62#.
What do you reckon made that particular set of limbs so fast?
And how was it faster than your standard non-ILF static limbs?
It’s hard telling why that particular set was so fast, but I’d guess it was the perfect combination between limb mass weight, preload adjustment vs the draw weight. But those ILF limbs can be fine tuned for preload too.
You can build 3 identical sets of limbs at different draw weights and get different test results with the same gpp arrows. But….There is typically a draw weight on each different limb design that excels. My Standard Sasquatch SS bolt down limbs are pretty high performance limbs, but the 52-60# limbs always out perform the 45-50# limbs at 28” draw lengths.
The lower draw weight limbs do better at longer draw lengths consistently….
BG Is an abbreviation for black glass Stic….
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Well duh on me=== thought maybe you was getting fancy termed :biglaugh: