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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Longtoke on July 01, 2024, 10:03:15 PM
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I see people using CA glue to fill cracks, chips, scuffs and it dries nice and clear, most of the time when I try it is "crazes" and turns white and foggy? what gives? are you all using some type of special super glue?
any tips on getting nice clean repairs, and not getting the dang stuff all over the place would be greatly appreciated :)
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I use CA for many applications, but it is not a gap filler in my experience. Very fine cracks, checking, splitting, many overlays , etc. No special brands, I buy it on Amazon, in the 4 oz bottles. I think the brand is CECCorp. I use X thin, thin, medium, thick and black. I got a package of the disposable thin tips an amazon as well - they are the best thing ever, and taper down to super thin. They snap onto the standard glue bottles, you cut it to the length and thickness you need, then throw it away afterward.
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My goal with trying to master super glue is to do small bow repair/maintenance without having to do a full refinish. filling little nicks, stress lines, keeping the tips in good shape. that kind of thing.
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That is a tough ask trying to do touch up crack filling after a bow has been finished. I would imagine that Crazed look you are getting from the CA is a reaction to your clear coating.... You need to fill those small cracks or voids BEFORE you spray your finish.
What i do is get all my finish sanding done on a riser and limbs down to 220 grit, then polish it a bit more with an extra fine scotch pad and wipe it down well with micro cloth or really soft rag... Then i use a lacquer sanding sealer and spray it.... If there are any minute cracks or joints that need to be filled, they stick out like a turd in a punch bowl. Very easy to spot them... NOW is the time to use your CA before you spray your finish. The best result will always be applying the CA, and then sanding it smooth why the glue is still wet with 120- 150 grit sand paper. This mixes fine sawdust into the void with the glue, and it just disappears completely... After you are done, hit it with spray lacquer again and hold it to the light...
Here is my CA of choice... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C32ML9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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As mentioned above, get on Amazon and order a 100 pack of the long disposable applicator tips. They can be cut to whatever length you want and toss when done. They are cheap and really allow you to apply the water thin AC glue into fine cracks, and keeping the mess to a minimum.
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Thank you for the tips and recommendations. I should have been more specific. I am trying to figure out a good way to put band aids on vintage bows without a full refinish. Scuffs and scrapes that are a bit deeper than what you can polish out, and of course vertical stress lines.
I have done the bowdoc method of using locktite 420 with a syringe to fill the cracks, then scrapping/sanding them down and that is a royal PITA.
and the syringe is not a great method of application IMHO. sometimes it works pretty good, sometimes you hit a sticky spot when trying to finesse the syringe plunger down and boom lots of super glue.
the best method I have found so far is using fresh 220/worn out 220 sand paper and tru oil. tru oil is amazing stuff IMO. blends seamless with most old bow finishes. but it can take a lot of coats/time to fill and its not very hard.
Ive been doing a bit of reading and people say fogging is from the CA vapors rising off the glue then settling back down on it. lots of ventilation is recommended. Some say humidity plays a roll. I live in the high plains. very little humidity here so not sure about that.
I have never used accelerator. not sure if that would help or not.
I have also read there is a smell free and foam safe super glue that doesnt fog but havent tried it yet.
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Kirk is that the same stuff you glue your tip overlays with?
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Kirk is that the same stuff you glue your tip overlays with?
Yup…. Overlays of all kinds hold well. With glass I freshly sand with 80 grit, clean with acetone, and use the thick formula. I only use the water thin stuff for checks and cracks that run deep. For just filling a surface crack or void I use the thick stuff and sand into it while it’s wet. It adds sawdust to the mixture and hides it better too.
I think it’s important to try and get even pressure applied to your overlays for the first minute or two. I use little C clamps on my tip overlays and a heavy spring clamp to hold it in place. Kirk