Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Haydenj7 on July 15, 2024, 10:50:22 PM
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I have taken delivery of a Centaur Super Curve 58in 59lbs @29inch draw, its a great bow but I have had some real trouble tuning it. Seems like I am getting a lot of tail wag and erratic flight.
I have tried 300 spine nearly full length with 375gr up front….this is 710gr and flying around 170fps.
I have also tried to go shorter with a cut down 300 spine to around 29inches with 200gr up front.
I have also tried 350spine cut down with 200gr up front.
I also have a Big Jim Thunderchild 67lbs @29inches that I shoot 600gr arrows from and they are a 300 spine around 29 inches. Arrow flight is great. I really would have thought that I could shoot a very similar arrow out of my Supercurve that is 8lbs lighter. But I can’t get good flight.
I am really keen to hear from anyone who has a super recurve with similar specs and what arrow setup they are using.
Best guess on spine and length? I would really like to be shooting 10-12gr per pound.
thanks
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What is your draw length and have you tried 400s?
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DL is 29inches, I use a clicker to tune also to ensure consistency on DL.
400 is way weak. I shoot 400 out of my 56lb thunder hold and this super curve has heeps more grunt. I think it also puts out more force than my 67 Thunderchild that I shoot 300s from. It is certainly quicker through the chronograph with the same arrows.
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I re-read your original post, and I did not see 400s mentioned. Have you tried them?
Never mind, I see you are shooting 200 more grains in head weight than me so I have no clue.
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I'm just curious, I've never heard of anyone using that much weight and I'm trying to figure out what and why that weight is needed. Thanks. :campfire:
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Tail-wag could be a number of issues. Bad release, bad grip, or tune. A common cause is shaft impacting the window. Until you try bare shafts (with wraps of tape in fletching area to compensate for fletching weight), we won't know.
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My bareshafts all have tape to match fletch weight.
Everything has been bareshafted.
Based on alot of spine charts 300 is in the ballpark.
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I am thinking you would need something around 80 pound spine with our 29 inch draw and 30 inch arrow.Considering the high performance limb,high performance string and being cut to center.I might be more flexible on point weight.Going from 150 grains heads up to heavyweights to tune and find the sweet spot.I had points from 125 up to 300 just for tuning purposes.
I had a 58 inch centaur Centaur super curve and a few tripple carbon longbows.The super curve required more spine.
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Thanks for the input....what is 80lb spine? do you mean something more like 250?
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Are you running any string silencers? If so try moving them both in from the limb tips ( closer to the arrow..this will slow the string..and if you see less wag...you should see improved arrow flight moving to a stiffer spine than what you are shooting now. If you aren't running silencers right now..add si!encers and see if the slower string improves on the tail wag..and then you know that you are too weak and need more spine. My 30" draw..using 32-1\2 shafts pushing 170gr up front requires 350 spine...from a 40# marked bow..that I draw 2" further than the rated length for poundage..also changes the power stroke by a bunch... So I wouldn't be at all surprised in your situation if you really need to stiffen up..
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A heavy spine requires a heavy tip and this causes more arrow jump upon release.
At 170 fps you should be able to see arrow flight quite easily. So, what are the bare shafts doing? Is it consistent?
FWIW, not all bows listed as "Super curve" have similar performance.
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I'm just curious, I've never heard of anyone using that much weight and I'm trying to figure out what and why that weight is needed. Thanks. :campfire:
This was a legit question as I'm trying to learn something here just like you. That's what this place is for. :campfire:
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Brace height? I have seen people shooting bows with to low a brace height causing that same result.
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As mentioned above..bareshaft is the doctor for most problems..
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375 grains. :scared:
You have piqued my interest as well. :archer:
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I don't shoot a super recurve, but my shooting partner does. Two things I know from that. One is that he shoots a very heavy spine for the poundage, and two, the brace height is lower than on any other recurve I've ever seen. Because of the low brace height, I don't think there's room for much error in spine selection or you will get the arrow slapping off the side plate, causing the tail wag.
Given that your in the ballpark, a 300 spine is about 106# and a 350 about 90# according to the Easton charts, I think you'll just need to refine point weight and/or arrow length until you find the combination that works. Also, check the brace height to make sure it's not too low, and maybe even raise it some even if it isn't. God luck.
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I don't shoot a super recurve, but my shooting partner does. Two things I know from that. One is that he shoots a very heavy spine for the poundage, and two, the brace height is lower than on any other recurve I've ever seen. Because of the low brace height, I don't think there's room for much error in spine selection or you will get the arrow slapping off the side plate, causing the tail wag.
Given that your in the ballpark, a 300 spine is about 106# and a 350 about 90# according to the Easton charts, I think you'll just need to refine point weight and/or arrow length until you find the combination that works. Also, check the brace height to make sure it's not too low, and maybe even raise it some even if it isn't. Good luck.
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I thought I would stop back by to see if there has been a remedy for. I have some arrows I was given as test arrows on out TX hunts and I would send you to try if you like as I have 4 of 400s from 2 different manufacturers. I also have 4 of each 500 and 600 as well. All are 30" BOP. I might even have a 3rd manufacture, I can check and see. I also might have some 300s, I'll have to check and see.
I'll be glad to send them to you for the cost of shipping, and then you send them to the ranch in TX when you're done. Just let me know.
What brand arrows are you shooting now?
Thx
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:campfire:
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I would try a 300 cut at 30” with 250 point.
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......I would try a 300 cut at 30” with 250 point.......
I bet that would a good guess Felix.
So I have quite a few heavy arrow setups and 100lb+ gold tips do come into the picture with at least a 29" draw at 60lbs or more with weight forward arrows. I'm probably shooting 65lbs or more, on my 60lb marked bows. I have 100lb+ in full length, 31 1/4 and some that someone else cut down to 30 which is too much in my opinion. My 61@27 Pronghorn shooting at 29 inches like the full length 100lb+s. My 60@28 64inch PL likes the cut down to 31 1/4 100lb+. These arrows have 100 grain brass inserts and around 250 grains for the point, which you should be able to find a broadhead for ....
But, all that said you should be able to reduce the weight on your 300s up front until you at least find something that works even if your not going to shoot that. Then you know where your at so to speak.
Like MCDave said in a similar post cut down arrows really get difficult to bend it seems. I like to just go up a size instead and do the fine tuning with point weight if possible.
I have a number of bows that like a full length 300 Beman ICS hunters. 100 grain insert and usually 200 grain point. So My 48lb PLX likes those. My Morrison Max IIs (border) at 50lbs also shoot that arrow well as do many of my hypo bows that are around 50lbs ... for reference ......
So as you might guess I have those two lengths in every arrow size although 35/55 are already shorter stock. Then I can shoot a bow I haven't got out for a spell and get in the game pretty quick by just choosing a size to start at. it works .....
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I hope I didn't run this guy off as I was just wondering. :dunno:
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Would suspect starting with a 300 spine cut 31 3/4"s with a 100 gn insert and a 200 gn point would be a good starting point.
Predict that you may end up very close to 30 7/8.
Note: Hopefully, my Centaur Super Curve may be here late season.
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I shoot dryad rcx 60#@29" and get away with 230gr up front on 350 spine carbon arrows. I have string silencers made of FF type string material. You should try to make a "bump" style shelf out of some chopsticks or similar material.
Hope this helps
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Scott, you didn't tell us about the Centaur in your 2024 post, so tell us about it! :campfire:
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Scott, you didn't tell us about the Centaur in your 2024 post, so tell us about it! :campfire:
Because he didn’t want to pay drinks to everyone!😂
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HA!!!
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TOO FUNNY cacciatore!!! :biglaugh:
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caccoatpre...have a Dark Matter Centaur Super Curve on order...hope to receive it late season...60"[email protected] not shot one however. I have had several Centaurs Carbon Elites....upper tier bows...
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I can't wait to hear your review Scott
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The best review would be a BBD this season....plan to be hunting with a TimberGhost TGX and the centaur Super Curve.
The TG Black Pearl with SSA limbs took down a nice 13 point last season.
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haydenj7... i generally target no less than 300 gns up front and my arrows generally tune very close to 15#s underspined.
For reference: My Stag setup was bare shaft tuned to 40 yards....Dryad Orion...52@28 (my actual draw)...350 spine....100 gn insert...250 BH...28 3/4" length...573 gn Tot wt.
I am projecting my arrow setup for the Centaur Super Curve and Timber Ghost TGX...both around 48@28.... to shoot a 350 spine...100 gn insert tipped with a 250 gn Simmons Great White....may likely have two different shaft lengths.
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The torsional rigidity of these super recurves is sometimes far greater than a standard glass bow, meaning you don't induce as much paradox as normal. The limbs are stiff enough to not allow the string to move as far sideways around your fingers at release. Counterintuitively, this means you need weaker arrows than you think despite the increased bow efficiency.
I'd be surprised if you needed 300's.
I shoot 30" 400's with 300gr upfront with my Border Black Douglas 58#@28" draw with 28" draw.
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How far past center cut is the riser shelf, and what type of rest material and strike plate are you using? and does it have a crown on the shelf?
Tail wag sounds like arrow contact with the shelf to me. You can do the lip stick test for clearance issues pretty easily. Kirk
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Bamboozle
"I'm just curious, I've never heard of anyone using that much weight and I'm trying to figure out what and why that weight is needed. Thanks. :campfire:"
He's in Australia, he might want to hunt Buffalo, which for me would require more than a 40-45 pound draw weight.
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I know nothing about the Centaur Super Curve bows.
I do know that the Centaurs overall have a very good reputation.
I shoot a 65 pound ILF recurve at my 29 inch draw.
The limbs are an old original set of Tradtech Carbon Wood mediums on a Titan riser.
My arrows are GT Heavy Hunters .320 spine. 642 grains of total weight.
The tune and arrow flight is as good as I am capable of which is not bad at all by most standards.
Two months ago I went to visit a friend of mine to get his help on a wood working project.
He told me to bring my bow and we would do some shooting while I was there.
When we got done with the router work we went out to shoot.
When we walked up to pull arrows the first time I saw the printing on his arrows and about had a heart attack. They are .250 spine. Lord Have Mercy !
He shoots a super curve at the same draw weight as me but has a longer draw length. 30 something I think he said.
The speed between his and mine was very visably different. His way fasters so I convinced him to shoot my heavier arrows off his bow. Three shots in a row from 20 yards, and they all flew so weak that they completely missed the very large backstop to the right.
Then, I shot his arrows off my bow. God all mighty!
Three shot in a row all shot stiff, completely missing that backstop to the left.
I've never had interest in the SC bows. I do now, but Lord Have Mercy again at the price of them !
I think I'll probably just stick with my slow old dog. She gets the job done.
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Another thing to consider when comparing bows and arrow flight is the cut to or near center at the riser.
My 60lb/28" PL drawn at 29" or more likes the 100lb+ gold tips of old at 31 1/4 with around 350 up front total. The gold tip 100lb+ is a 260 spine.
But my pronghorn longbow 61@27 drawn to 29" likes the full length 100lb+ with 350 total up front. There really isn't that much difference in the performance from the PL but the pronghorns' broom handle riser is not completely cut to center and it needs a limper arrow to clear the riser. The Widow riser is cut a little deeper and is wider when looking from the side, and shoots a stiffer arrow.
I also have some 30" 100lb+ gold tips that came in the group of 100lb+ arrows I bought second hand. I have shot those with 73lb Chastain limbs for a Bear takedown riser that are dacron limbs for sure. I use the 300 grain point on those with a 100 grain insert (the only way they will bend). I also have a set of 60 lb Rose Oak recurve limbs for the bear system and they do seem to like these same arrows and are fast flight. They seem to be picking up ten pounds or more on the dacron Chastain limbs ....
I also have a set of Morrison Max I static recurve limbs that are 63lbs at 28 on a specially built 21 inch cocobolo riser and they are clearly the fastest limbs I have and are whipping the 30 inch gold tips at 260 spine with 400 grains total up front. I haven't corrected that but rather than cut the arrows down even more. I will check weights and lighten up the front to maybe 225 grain heads or something like that. 30" is already too short IMO to get good parallax. happy elephant hunting lol .....
I have bare shafted most of my setups at 45 and 65 yards just for reference .... I shoot split finger on the finger tips and tend to relax the pointing finger until I'm just really shooting two under with a field archery style and a low anchor. most of these mentioned setups gap around 60 yards for me and when hunting or stumping I will shoot three under at very close targets as that is hard to beat for accuracy up close ....
The main point here is to consider going up an arrow size instead of cutting down ....