Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Buschlatte on September 04, 2024, 08:50:32 PM
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I’ve got a 56” recurve at 55@28.
Guys at 3 rivers helped me with arrow selection and I’ve got carbon legacy 340’s cut to 30.5” with 100 gr insert and 150 gr heads.
I didn’t shoot this bow with bare shafts. I want to say it shoots fine with broadheads, but I don’t think I’m quite consistent enough to tell a solid difference. Meaning, I can put all the arrows in a kill spot, but I do push some shots left and right with field tips at times. So with my inconsistencies I am not confident in saying broadhead flight is bad.
Can I get your thoughts on the spine im shooting? I see some guys shoot heavier poundage with 400-500 spine at times. Enlighten me please. Trying to learn experiences and different opinions on setups. I’m shooting this bow at 28 maybe around 28.5 but that’s negligible.
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340 seems stiff to me. I'd knock the feathers off one and shoot it at about 15 yards and see how it flies. This will at least tell you if the spine is correct. I don't put a ton of stock into bare shaft tuning, because your form has to be nearly flawless to get it to work properly. But it will at least get you into the ball park with spine.
I usually start out bare shafting with a selection of different spines and see which one my bow likes the best with the tip weight I intend to shoot then move to feathers then broadheads.
Don't overlook turning your nock as well. I've found that some bows need the fletching to be in a certain orientation to get good clearance.
Tuning can be a fickle game. Tons of variables and human error involved with a trad bow.
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Thanks for the reply. I’ll do that. I know it isn’t a cheap game to play, but I hate to buy arrows of different spine and other variances. This is one of many expensive hobbies of mine 😂
I’ll play around with some though. Shoots well though for now but thanks for the confirmation that it’s a bit stiff
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Anytime someone posts these type questions I have to wonder how they actually shoot? Is form consistant, etc. I don’t know you so don’t be offended but without consistency which is easiest through proper form, you can’t tune, group arrows reliability, etc
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Very valid thought. I’m certainly not a terrible shot. But I’m always wanting to improve and want to make sure I have the correct equipment for it.
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Bow guy is correct, but don't fall into the trap of thinking you have to be Rod Jenkins or Tom Clum to hunt with a stick bow.
I currently have another post about big broadheads and big feathers. You can get arrows to fly well enough to hunt with without perfect form, it just takes some figuring out and maybe a little more feather than some dudes. Tuning is challenging to me, because I don't have perfect form and probably never will. I don't sweat it too much though because I can't think of any hunting shot I've taken where I truly had prefect form. Weather conditions, nerves, awkward angles, etc.
Just do the best tuning job you can and keep your shots around 20 yards and you'll be good to go. In my opinion :thumbsup:
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So.. a lot depends on the bow you're shooting. Most widow curves are cut 3/16" past center.. some others too so these bows require a stiffer spine. Others aren't cut past center and would definitely want a weaker spine.
bigJim
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Getting back to your basic question, many people shoot 55# bows with .400 spine arrows. However, given that the length of your arrows is a little longer than usual, and your point weight is a little higher than usual .340 seems about right to me. At least, since you're not ready to jump into bare shaft tuning at this point, you should feel comfortable shooting them just the way you have them set up.
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Thanks for the input fellas
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I tend to agree with McDave. Your arrows appear to be hitting where you want them to hit. If you aren't noticing any wobbling -- porposing or fishtailing of the arrows in flight -- you're good to go. Next shaft purchase, I think you might like 400s better.
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You could also try some 175 and 200gr field points to see4 how they fly w/o breaking the bank.