Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: SnakeEyes on December 16, 2024, 03:43:58 PM
-
40lb recurve/28" DL
I was shooting Traditional Only Obsidian 500sp with 125gr field points. My total arrow weight was around 395gr. Since I plan on hunting with this rig eventually, I "upgraded" to Gold Tip Traditional Classic (also 500sp). They are a higher GPI and put me around 529gr
The issue is the flight is awful. I tried screwing on a 150gr point and it doesn't help.
With the Traditional Only arrows, I never noticed my arrows cork screwing. Both brands are cut to 31". Thoughts ?
-
Hmmmm. I'm surprised the earlier .500s flew good for you. That's rather stiff for a 40# bow. Keeping them full length helps reduce the dynamic spine, of course. Are your new shafts are the same diameter? If they're skinnier, they would likely need to be a little stiffer. I suspect the issue is the additional shaft weight. A heavier shaft will soften the dynamic spine. Thus, strange as it may seem, you may need even stiffer spine to get good arrow flight with the heavier shafts.
-
You might want to consider a different arrow. A friend of mine shoots a 40lb Shrew long bow and pulls 27inches. He uses a 29inch 600 carbon arrow with a 100 grain point. Works well for him. I shoot a 40lb (Navajo bows) long bow and pull 26.'' I use either a 29' carbon 600 with a 175 grain point or a 28" 2013 aluminum arrow with a 125 grain point ( which should be too stiff for the bow but it works). Each bow is an individual and you have to experiment a bit to get an arrow that works for you.
Best of luck finding the right arrow!!
-
Hmmmm. I'm surprised the earlier .500s flew good for you. That's rather stiff for a 40# bow. Keeping them full length helps reduce the dynamic spine, of course. Are your new shafts are the same diameter? If they're skinnier, they would likely need to be a little stiffer. I suspect the issue is the additional shaft weight. A heavier shaft will soften the dynamic spine. Thus, strange as it may seem, you may need even stiffer shafts to get good arrow flight with the heavier shafts.
Actually yes, the new shafts are small diameter (.204), while my Traditional Only are standard diameter. Maybe I'll cut the new shafts down a bit and try a 100gr head...
-
:dunno: I had problems tuning the also, I remember now that I had to shorten them or change point weight to get the same spine to tune.
-
Bare shaft will tell you what's going on.
-
I should add that the arrows that ARE flying we'll (Traditional Only 500sp) have 50 grain inserts
-
Dan, take a bare shaft and you can tell right away what's happening. too weak or too stiff, nock high or low. One shot will tell all of this.
-
Dan, take a bare shaft and you can tell right away what's happening. too weak or too stiff, nock high or low. One shot will tell all of this.
Ditto on what Bob saying,
-
Here are pics. Fletched and bareshaft
These fly like garbage.
A tail left tear
Gold Tip Traditional Class
500sp
Small diameter
125gr field point
-
Here are my original arrows
These fly awesome
Traditional Only
500sp
50gr insert
125gr head
-
If you're right handed the arrows are showing very weak, however w the spine you're shooting I'd guess too stiff showing false weak. Easy to verify--- drop point weight and if they get better they are most likely truly a bit weak for that length/tip weight.
-
If you're right handed the arrows are showing very weak, however w the spine you're shooting I'd guess too stiff showing false weak. Easy to verify--- drop point weight and if they get better they are most likely truly a bit weak for that length/tip weight.
Yes sir. I am right handed. Ok. I'll try 85gr or so
-
Btw, I've used @400gr arrows pulling 34-40# very successfully on our big bodied whitetails. The bows I shoot are not cut to or past center and my 26" draw adds to the equation, but 600, 700, and even 800 spine usually work out for me. I have found a lot of variance in what arrows are marked and what they spine. For example my mfx600s spine .585 and gt Warriors spine .650.
-
Btw, I've used @400gr arrows pulling 34-40# very successfully on our big bodied whitetails. The bows I shoot are not cut to or past center and my 26" draw adds to the equation, but 600, 700, and even 800 spine usually work out for me. I have found a lot of variance in what arrows are marked and what they spine. For example my mfx600s spine .585 and gt Warriors spine .650.
My gut tells me these are too stiff. I am going to try an 85gr head and then 200gr head when I get home.
-
Is you bow center cut? past or before? also draw length and arrow length?
-
Is you bow center cut? past or before? also draw length and arrow length?
Hi Bob. It's a Bear Kodiak Hunter, I believe it is center cut.
Draw length is 28"
Draw weight 40lb
Both arrow types are 31"
-
The tear shows under spined, but if the arrow tip is passed center it can give you the same tear. you may need to build shelf out a little shorting the arrow sometimes will align a little better. you can call if you would like,
-
The tear shows under spined, but if the arrow tip is passed center it can give you the same tear. you may need to build shelf out a little shorting the arrow sometimes will align a little better. you can call if you would like,
Thank you. You were right. I screwed on an 85gr field point and it looks better already. I guess I will cut the arrows shorter ...
I should have looked at Gold Tips spine chart prior to ordering. They recommend 400sp for my setup
-
That looks better. I would want more up front, probably need the 400's. This is one of my hunting setups 500 Taipan Carbon arrow ($110 DZ. .204) my draw is 25" 40#@26" 250gr.up front cut to 29" 3-3" fletch. bare shafts bullet holes.
-
Cut in small increments like 1/4" and verify. Shooting out at 30 yds will show you if the bareshaft is flying weak or stiff or if there is a nock issue. When I get close to tune I'll leave an arrow a bit weak for a few days, because I know my form/shooting is a big variable and once you cut them short you can't stretch them. I usually enjoy tuning, but it can be frustrating. Bob provides great advice.
-
If you are getting bullet holes through paper, you have a nice consistent release. A lot of guys have issues paper tuning a Trad bow. I think i'd try Bob's suggestion of padding the strike plate out a fuzz before cutting arrows myself.
If you are getting any inconsistency from one shaft to the next, i'd highly recommend spine testing each shaft and rotating them until they match up... This is something you don't hear about much, but carbon shafts have a weak side and a strong side and the difference between the two can be a lot on some arrows. Even the high end shafts should be checked and matched up before fletching or even bare shaft testing.... Food for thought.... Kirk
-
Cut in small increments like 1/4" and verify. Shooting out at 30 yds will show you if the bareshaft is flying weak or stiff or if there is a nock issue. When I get close to tune I'll leave an arrow a bit weak for a few days, because I know my form/shooting is a big variable and once you cut them short you can't stretch them. I usually enjoy tuning, but it can be frustrating. Bob provides great advice.
I cut the shafts down about 2 more inches. It definitely improved the bareshaft tear. It's not as clean as my other brand arrows though. Lesson learned, read the manufacturer's spine chart (I knew better)
-
I think you're going to like the .204 shafts. if you can get 400 and 340 singles you can be sure you have the right size. Lancaster Archery use to sell singles I don't think they will now but if you call, they will do 6. it doesn't hurt to have a section on hand, you just never know. I just checked and Safari Tuff does sell single shafts with all components needed, get 2 or more to to tune bare shaft once you feel its right fletch it verify that its the one, then buy a dozen. always keep one as a bare shaft if things start looking funny shot it a adjust from there.