Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: EvilDogBeast on February 10, 2025, 08:25:32 PM
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Reminders :deadhorse:
Signup Closes: 7 February 2025
Assignments Sent Out: 11 February 2025
Official Build Period: 12 February 2025 - 2 June 2025
Grace Period: 3 June 2025 - 27 June 2025
Minimum one post per week!
**You MUST post a full-draw picture upon receipt of your bow. NO EXCEPTIONS!**
Good luck everyone. :campfire:
*Build and Grace Period dates adjusted to reflect assignment delay.*
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Running behind as per usual. Assignments should be finished up and sent out by tomorrow. Build dates adjusted to reflect.
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Will ship Wednesday :laughing:
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I started a little early. Fitted a riser up last weekend. Wanta be done before the weather warms up.
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Ive been in the mental game of designing my first template and first recurve. Pretty close to picking up form materials
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Waiting to hear draw length before I decide to pick a bow design. Im really excited. I was looking back at last years builds and I definitely dont feel worthy. But thanks for letting me in anyhow.
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While picking a black locust stave from the shed for a project last weekend I noticed a nice persimmon stave on top of the hoard and I havnt worked persimmon in a while. I also realized I havnt worked a good black walnut bow in a while either. So I’ll pick between those when I get a name. I doubt I’ll go after anything highly charactered this year.
Kyle
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nice kyle, i wouldnt mind any of those if i was the victim.
If you do black walnut do you keep it mostly sapwood, ive read a tiny bit about black walnut selfbows but the only log i ever scored was twisting about a quarter turn and checking
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Do any of you guys have a good how to on doing the footed/ribbon cut veneers. I saw a couple of you did that last year. I’ve never done it but was thinking I could use my laser engraver to make the perfect cuts just gluing back together is unknown to me. Or maybe there is an easier way.
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Footed riser https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=154409.0
You need to glue up all the stripe pieces to the riser at 1 time, top stripe. Like mike said
Then cut the riser again for the second stripe, bottom stripe
(https://i.imgur.com/uKr33jr.jpg)
I don't know of a build along.
Thickness pieces of .062 or less will do most bends
Maybe this will help.
This is 2 separate builds
blocks are 2x2x 3/4 and 2x2x 3/16
glue them together.
(https://i.imgur.com/AHnxjME.jpg)
Resaw and grind to .050, these need to be sanded
(https://i.imgur.com/h15NO0Z.jpg)
Phenolic ground to .0375---total stack 1/8"
(https://i.imgur.com/HxQyCdb.jpg)
There is some info here but, same as I said
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=152514.100
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I apologize, I meant Limb veneers. What is that really white wood in the accent stripes though?
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Oh. Grab 2 wood species thick enough to resaw veneers from and wide enough to cover you bow limb. Make a pattern, a lot are a soft s curve, Cut out on bandsaw and fine tune with whatever sanding options you have until you get perfect fit, you can now add some fancy mosaic strip, or other thin laminations as you glue the block up. Square up the block when youre done, and resaw the face that has the pattern. Grind it to thickness and there is your veneer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d36fXljZfbQ
thats a clip of someone squaring one up
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Okay, so start thick then cut down thin and I guess run through a drum sander to get to veneer thickness. I though you guys used veneers, then cut to shape and glued the ends together. I know rookie but Im learning a lot from you guys. Thank you.
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I build a template out of plexiglass and use a 3/16 spiral router bit. Using a plunge router I take small passes until I'm all the way through
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That’s really slick
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Dbeaver - I’ve made a couple walnut bows of each way. Right under the bark, chasing the sapwood down to 1-2 rings thick so I get a flame of color up the belly, and all heartwood. I can say, the heartwood make a good performer but is more brittle. An all sapwood is more likely to take set and or be a dog in performance. The chase ring is a good middle ground and the best looker with the greens and blues as the rings transition from sap to heart.
Kyle
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Almost finished, had to go to work. I'll make the final assignments and send PMs when I get home.
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Almost finished, had to go to work. I'll make the final assignments and send PMs when I get home.
Thank you for coordinating this, Im sure it takes a bit of work.
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Think this is what I’m going with.
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Think this is what I’m going with.
Is that osage and walnut?
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Alright, I think I have everything squared away. PM's going out.
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It’s Osage but I’m not sure what the other wood is. It’s some of the hardest stuff I’ve ever worked with. Might be milk wood
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Alright, I think I have everything squared away. PM's going out.
Yeahhhh. Victims Beware!!!
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PMs sent. Please hit me up with any questions you may have for victims and I will find out for you. Good luck gentlemen.
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Well, I’ve decided what I’m going to do. I’m going to use a kids bow pattern I got from KennyM and try to modify it to be a 54” short hybrid, long bow/recurve. That will hit 60 pounds and hopefully hit 31 inch draw without stacking too bad. And I’ll have to beef up the riser a little Ive only gone to 45 before. Well out of my comfort zone.
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I’m thinkin but no pics :biglaugh:
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Wood selection night!!!
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Lets get it started yeah. A pile of osage, a bandsaw, a drawknife, and some time.
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Well, I’ve decided what I’m going to do. I’m going to use a kids bow pattern I got from KennyM and try to modify it to be a 54” short hybrid, long bow/recurve. That will hit 60 pounds and hopefully hit 31 inch draw without stacking too bad. And I’ll have to beef up the riser a little Ive only gone to 45 before. Well out of my comfort zone.
Building a 54” bow that draws 31” without stacking may prove to be a challenge. I would take a long look at Ron LaClairs shrew design. That design will do it in a 52” length.
Beware of using too much deflex sweep in your limb design. There is a lot to be said for leaving a flat section to regulate the draw length and change the working limb length without changing limb length. .02 cents worth…
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Well, I’ve decided what I’m going to do. I’m going to use a kids bow pattern I got from KennyM and try to modify it to be a 54” short hybrid, long bow/recurve. That will hit 60 pounds and hopefully hit 31 inch draw without stacking too bad. And I’ll have to beef up the riser a little Ive only gone to 45 before. Well out of my comfort zone.
Building a 54” bow that draws 31” without stacking may prove to be a challenge. I would take a long look at Ron LaClairs shrew design. That design will do it in a 52” length.
Beware of using too much deflex sweep in your limb design. There is a lot to be said for leaving a flat section to regulate the draw length and change the working limb length without changing limb length. .02 cents worth…
The kids bow template I got from Kenny and and have made a few of with great success is basically a clone of the shrew bow. My buddy waited a year for his when we compared them they were basically the same. I just want to throw a bit more reflex into the tips.
This is a previous one I did
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It may look like a clone of a Shrew, but it took me 4 forms and a bunch of bows leaning in the corner to get what I wanted. :biglaugh:
I've never seen a Shrew bow, but have studied many bow designs...
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It may look like a clone of a Shrew, but it took me 4 forms and a bunch of bows leaning in the corner to get what I wanted. :biglaugh:
I've never seen a Shrew bow, but have studied many bow designs...
I wasn’t trying to say anything, just that the design is already close to the bow he referenced. I love the design, thanks for putting the effort into it and offering to me.
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I know, the only reason I went that direction was I saw Gregg Coffee was making a 52" and it was challenging.
My apologies to him and Shrew if it's similar!!
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Is a maybe considered a progress? :saywhat:
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How did it do that? Lol
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Is a maybe considered a progress? :saywhat:
Those are beautiful
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I know, the only reason I went that direction was I saw Gregg Coffee was making a 52" and it was challenging.
My apologies to him and Shrew if it's similar!!
I just went and looked at the Java bows and that elkheart magnum is exactly what I was wanting to do just a bit mire reflex in the tips.
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That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54” length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
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That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54” length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
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Picked up an lvl beam to make a new form today
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Still in the “maybe” stage here too. Dug out a piece of 1/4 sawn Bubinga, no distinctive grain character, but so dense and heavy I’m sure it wouldn’t float. Maybe a contender for a very strong riser?
Also have a number of good options for some nice veneers, but I have a lot of wood so still moving around all the options till I get a “eureka!” moment. Might be a while? My most recent longbow limbs came in 10# over, so I have some work to do in the meantime.
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Still in the “maybe” stage here too. Dug out a piece of 1/4 sawn Bubinga, no distinctive grain character, but so dense and heavy I’m sure it wouldn’t float. Maybe a contender for a very strong riser?
Also have a number of good options for some nice veneers, but I have a lot of wood so still moving around all the options till I get a “eureka!” moment. Might be a while? My most recent longbow limbs came in 10# over, so I have some work to do in the meantime.
what is the bottom wood on the second limb from the left? It is really cool, but so is the left
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Left to right - Quilted Maple, Jatoba over Zebrawood, Olivewood over Wenge, Paduak over Wenge.
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Left to right - Quilted Maple, Jatoba over Zebrawood, Olivewood over Wenge, Paduak over Wenge.
I’ve used zebra a couple times , but haven’t seen it with that wide of bands in it, at first I thought it was snakewood but that stuff is way too expensive. Either way beautiful combinations
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Hmmmm…
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Hmmmm…
The rate your moving, youll be done this week!
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That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54” length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
Good luck with that… let us know how it comes out.
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That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54” length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
Good luck with that… let us know how it comes out.
Hopefully some lucky victim will be the judge of that. :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
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That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54” length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
Good luck with that… let us know how it comes out.
Just out of curiosity why did you stop making them?
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Popularity isn’t real high with shorty bows. Most archers want bows ranging from 58-64”.
Building custom one piece 52-54” bows, if you miss draw weight by too much, you have to start again, and try and find a home for the others…. Not being real popular I ended up setting on a few for a couple years, and I took very few orders for new ones…. So I just set the form aside and quit building them. Kirk
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I’m trying to find a snaky stave that’s hiding around here somewhere. But found this piece of curly hackberry in the collection, so I may swap plans to working this stave. It’s naturally deflexed, so I may run with this piece and refine it into a reflex deflex profile and give it a hard backing since I don’t feel confident of it holding up in tension, though hackberry is tough.
Kyle
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Those really short bows are hard to get a good release for me. Even if they draw smoothly to a long draw length the string angle is terrible. A friend of mine shoots two fingers under with his shrew to help with finger pinch.
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Those really short bows are hard to get a good release for me. Even if they draw smoothly to a long draw length the string angle is terrible. A friend of mine shoots two fingers under with his shrew to help with finger pinch.
Ive made a couple for a buddy of mine that would never shoot less than 60” because he couldn’t shoot anything shorter accurately and he only shoots the ones Ive made now and even ordered a shrew, then realized he likes mine more. He is only a 29” draw though.
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Made sone progress. Bought an lvl beam for new form. Cut up some wood for riser. Think I may I-beam it since it will be a 60# bow. Bird’s eye maple, coffee spectraply and myrtle burl.
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With the gradient color
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Ready to drill some holes
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Ring Chasing Therapy.
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Glued up and tweaked kennys kids bow design. Beefed up the riser a little, and added a smidge more reflex at tip(not a ton)front of riser is marked on blank. I noticed a little crack in the maple so avoiding it by shifting riser.
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Got the riser glued up today.
Stabilized Spalted Maple with Stabilzed Walnut I-Beam and flare. Red phenolic and black G10 accent. Hope my victim likes a heavy riser…..
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Riser for this unit is ready for the next stages. I had made up the block for mosaic strips at a 45 angle, thinking it would create an interesting look if the “dots” were at an angle. Turns out that at .020 thickness you have to squint really hard to see that. Duh !! :banghead:
I’m starting to assemble the lams for the limbs, but if they don’t fall into the weight parameters then this riser will be laid aside and the victim will be moving to a recurve rather than a longbow. All good!
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Riser for this unit is ready for the next stages. I had made up the block for mosaic strips at a 45 angle, thinking it would create an interesting look if the “dots” were at an angle. Turns out that at .020 thickness you have to squint really hard to see that. Duh !! :banghead:
I’m starting to assemble the lams for the limbs, but if they don’t fall into the weight parameters then this riser will be laid aside and the victim will be moving to a recurve rather than a longbow. All good!
Looking sharp!!!
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Finished form. Little bit more reflex at tips and thicker riser. This is a bow of kennys original kid bow form
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That’s a curvy one!
I put a string on my victims bow. It’s five pounds over, should be right in the sweet spot when finished. One more set of overlays to glue on.
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Finished form. Little bit more reflex at tips and thicker riser. This is a bow of kennys original kid bow form
Be sure and seal that LVL material with shellac real well. Did you sand that thing down to 1.75" thickness?
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Thanks, I will. Yes. It was 1.75 took it down to 1.5. Power hand planer then drum sander. Im also going to screw in a metal pressure plate to surface.
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I also hav 1/2” bar being delivered tomorrow that I will cut down for pegs
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Such great progress all around and some real lookers so far.
Behind on pics but I have a riser glued up and lams ready for taper glass and accents will be on their way soon.
going to spend some extra time between steps to cap the prepped riser blank with stabilcore so when the bow is laid up there's a black accent framing the riser within the bow and continue down between the lams to the tip. A nice accent down the neutral plane of the limb.
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Such great progress all around and some real lookers so far.
Behind on pics but I have a riser glued up and lams ready for taper glass and accents will be on their way soon.
going to spend some extra time between steps to cap the prepped riser blank with stabilcore so when the bow is laid up there's a black accent framing the riser within the bow and continue down between the lams to the tip. A nice accent down the neutral plane of the limb.
I have some stabilcore too do you guys think it is wasted putting in a narrow limbed longbow or would it add anything to its performance. Thanks for the advise.
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It is hindering the peak performance of my bow by adding extra weight without the need for the properties that its made for. But it might gain a few fps from being drop dead gorgeous though
Truth is you can find all sorts of info about that on old threads and even on some very recent ones there's been plenty of discussion on stabilcore. You'll find that some and very few designs will actually ever need it and plenty of folks would tell you to swap it for a layer of carbon of their preference to get more bang for your buck on weight and torsional stability.
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Thanks. Ill research more on when to use it
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First change of plan of 742
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That’s a shame Kenny, kinda looking forward to the first one!
Got my first riser done as far as its going for now, need to concentrate on the limbs for a while. Might require a new form. Starting on a recurve riser as well, just in case.
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Uli, I decided I didn't like the paper phenolic in fades on a one piece, so that riser may have to be morphed into a TD at some point... :dunno:
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Hey kenny for some of us with less time on the bench, what didnt you like about the phenoloc in the fades?
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Linen phenolic would have been good I think, I just haven't used much paper phenolic but seems like it would be brittle.
I think Bear uses same tho, but I don't want a bow to give up on anybody so prob too concerned for nothing...
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Riser block and veneers ready. Weighed that 16" riser block at 3.4 lbs!!!!
I'm always amazed at how much Cactus Juice the soft maple soak up.
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Beautiful work, Jon !! Love the grain and the contrast!
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I looks amazing. Id gladly be your victim.
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Jon I'm not surprised but I am impressed. Absolute beauty on this one
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Thanks gentlemen
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Those are looking awesome!
I’ve got a game plan for this weekend. I’m gonna get the curly hackberry roughed out and tillered to brace before I heat treat and prep for a sinew backing. I’m hoping it’s ready to go by deadline, if so and it holds up it’ll get a birch bark cover over the sinew and see how a ferric nitrate treatment does on the hackberry.
But while it cures I’ll start up another bow of some kind. Probably a walnut something or other.
Kyle
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Some really nice stuff happening. I have all the overlays and tips glued up. Probably won’t be any progress the next week. Weather is gonna be to nice
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Not super confident I can nail the weight in the 54” so I am also going to start a 60” RD KennyM bow as backup.
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I got a good start the last couple hours. Here’s the stave I’m starting with. I’ve got it mostly thought out, needing cleaned up to the lines. But dang is it going slow compared to normal. This curly grain is a pain in the butt to carve. It’s quite chippy
Kyle
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Floor tillered and ready for shaping and heat treating. Currently debating on a rawhide backing or a layer of sinew to help it hold together. Im excited to see if it holds up so I can see how the character finishes out.
Kyle
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Floor tillered and ready for shaping and heat treating. Currently debating on a rawhide backing or a layer of sinew to help it hold together. Im excited to see if it holds up so I can see how the character finishes out.
Kyle
wow, you did a lot today!
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I don’t get many days to work on bows lately so I make as much use of the time I get. I’m hoping to get to another bows tillering after I get done heat treating, shaping is done. I also managed to get the handle for a different project all glued up to shape.
Kyle
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I don’t get many days to work on bows lately so I make as much use of the time I get. I’m hoping to get to another bows tillering after I get done heat treating, shaping is done. I also managed to get the handle for a different project all glued up to shape.
Kyle
if I saw that on the ground I’d jump back 10ft
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Cool bow Kyle!
This is a little bland I think …
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Looks pretty dang nice to me
The hackberry is shaped with a mild heat treat. I do an hour on each limb and my toes are a bit frozen. But good enough to get tiller started.
Kyle
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I like the way the spalted flows into the riser i would say its a win Kenny very nice !
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Some serious snakes on that one, but will that glueline hold? Seem to be very little wood to wood contact, just thick glueline. Just curious.
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The glue line is a bit tighter than it looks on the surface. I fit the parts tight enough to not see light through with rasp and scraper, then boiled and clamped the hell out the the pieces. The thick looking glue line is from the top of the Osage having a bit of radius. It’s a pretty good contact through most plus will be in a stiff handled are. It’s turning into an interesting amalgamation of pieces to make it work. I’ll share some pictures once I get it done and cleaned up better.
Kyle
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Starting over with a KennyM 60” RD. Will be paduak and canarywood. Post pics when I get further along.
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Got everything roughed out.
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Lookin good guys!! I got nothin!! Shop and farm are keeping me busy!
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New woods selected. Cocobolo paduak with canary I-beam.
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Looks like a few beauties being built.
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[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] Got the rough layout done.
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Like the 1/4 sawn, John... :thumbsup:
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Risers ready for finishing. Little fine tuning left on the limbs
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Risers ready for finishing. Little fine tuning left on the limbs
looking really nice!! What did you use for the white accent lines? I bought some light hickory to use for accent lines but I don’t think it looks that light. Maybe just because it isnt next to darker wood??
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I used maple and wenge
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Getting close, might try to get a couple more pounds off and I’m gonna call it good.
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Looks great Travis! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Got DayBreaker’s new riser cut. Now to glue in maple or hickory accent lines.
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She’s talking an ea40 bath now with maple accent strips
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Progress
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Crazy how much whiter maple looks after you glue it in with other woods
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Crazy how much whiter maple looks after you glue it in with other woods
Actually it will tone down a bit after you finish it. Also using thinner accent strips doesn’t make it jump out so much. I like to run them about .030 myself.
These have 2 accent strips at .030
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I see that, it still looks good. I used a single 050.
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Risers ready for finishing. Little fine tuning left on the limbs
I really like how you shaped under the left side of the shelf
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Another setback. Did a dry run on glue up and both the back and belly lams snapped where I spliced them. .120 and .090. Guess I will have to make 4 lams i stead of 2.
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Another setback. Did a dry run on glue up and both the back and belly lams snapped where I spliced them. .120 and .090. Guess I will have to make 4 lams i stead of 2.
I don't have much exerience in once piece bows except the one that I have done. But, IMO, that seems like a pretty tight radius to curve a .090 lam let alone a .120 lam around regardless if it is spliced or not.
For those of you that do this regularly, would it make sense to have a 12"-16" section through the middle? Meaning, 2 splices instead of 1 so the splices end up on the belly/back ramps instead of the apex of the riser? I believe you might get away with something like that if you still wanted to use 2 core lams vs 4.
What do you guys think?
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Interesting way of looking at it Jon. If you make accurate measurements so that you can still measure your stack height accurately before removing enough from the butt to do the double splices, should work just fine.
More thin lams will bend easier and arguments have been made that will also be stronger because a composite of laminations inherently strengthen the base material. BUT there's the counter argument of more glue equals more weight which could dog down performamce. Another place where each bow design will probably optimize slightly different.
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It has been suggested that I make my scarf joint longer. Shallower angle. I guess this will give more of a glueing surface and make the two ends thinner and more flexible??? My interpretation of it. We will see, I’ll try today.
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That hasn’t worked either. Glue keeps popping. I may try pre-heating the bamboo clamping it into the form and let it cool in shape then glue it up??
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Which of the lams is going over the back, the 90 or the 120? I’ll presume its a taper? If so, prior to making the splice you might try running the butt of each lam through the drum sander on your parallel sled, just enough that you’re taking the butt down a bit , but stop before you get down onto the fade. If its an .002 taper, then even 5” will get the butt slimmer by .010, maybe enough ? What glue are you using? CA? Remember that any glue requires a full cure, and even CA benefits from curing overnight.
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That is a good idea. Shave it down almost to the fades. I already did the cold forming though. I will do that in the belly though. Yes I had 090 with 002 taper on back. I was using medium CA with acceleratior and then cured a bit more with heat gun. Not super hot.
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A piece of advice? - never use accelerator! Use patience instead. If you let that glue cure without trying to speed it up, it will be stronger than the wood.
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Ok. Thanks
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More thin lams will bend easier and arguments have been made that will also be stronger because a composite of laminations inherently strengthen the base material. BUT there's the counter argument of more glue equals more weight which could dog down performance. Another place where each bow design will probably optimize slightly different.
I think you will find that you will get better performance and stability to your limbs with more laminations. The spring back coming out of the form will be less too, which adds a bit of draw weight and increases performance. Those extra glue lines are not adding enough limb mass weight to be noticeable.
.02 cents worth
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Thank you. That is definitely the way I will start next time when making a heavier bow.
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Should be gluing up tomorrow
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I'm stalled out, out of Clear 1.5" glass and not looking good for this month.
I ordered 2 rolls of Bearpaw but it not here yet either.
I have a willow stick picked out... :laughing:
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Pretty sure it would be a fine looking willow stick too, Kenny!!
On the subject of reporting - I also have little to report. I changed direction from the initial riser and limbs I had planned - riser is fine but limbs not cooperating (unless victim starts going to the Gym ). So rather than experiment more, its back to what I have charts for.
Spring has come early here, so the annual bucket list (hers, not mine) was posted on the shop door a few days ago. Oddly, Trad Bow Swap was not on it.
Limbs are Wenge/Olivewood veneer, edge grain Bamboo, and edge grain Yew heartwood.
Victim will have to put up with my last old chunk of Rosewood for riser. Going slow!
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Looking good Noah! Sorry to hear your first go came in heavy.
My victims limbs came in heavy as well....Changed the recipe with a little experimenting and BOOM! Came in 12# over his max range. :banghead:
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Ive been a ghost here while you guys are putting some serious efforts in. Waiting on some materials and while I'm waiting I finally unpacked my shop since moving this summer.
Glued up one bow this past fall but working out of bins and tripping over piles of this and that got old.
Shop is ready for the action when glass gets in.
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Ive been a ghost here while you guys are putting some serious efforts in. Waiting on some materials and while I'm waiting I finally unpacked my shop since moving this summer.
Glued up one bow this past fall but working out of bins and tripping over piles of this and that got old.
Shop is ready for the action when glass gets in.
Nice! Wish I had a shop like that
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Just put it up last year before moving in. Still not used to it. I'm a lucky dude
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Haven’t glued up yet, waiting on my mule tape to come in mail today. Question, I’ve always used spar urethane or auto paint in a spray can. I bought some thunderbird epoxy finish to try on this one. Any suggestions or recommendations? I haven’t used it or a spray gun before.
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That is a good shop, look like you can have a 3D course in there. ;)
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I ordered 2 rolls of Bearpaw but it not here yet either.
Any thoughts on the qulaity you are expecting?
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Ive been a ghost here while you guys are putting some serious efforts in. Waiting on some materials and while I'm waiting I finally unpacked my shop since moving this summer.
Glued up one bow this past fall but working out of bins and tripping over piles of this and that got old.
Shop is ready for the action when glass gets in.
Wow... A naked shop! You would be wise to think about insulating a portion of that baby and building a mezzanine and spray booth with 10' ceiling on one end so you can hang an arctic curtain in winter and heat a section... I think back when i had bare walls like that and sure wish id have given it more thought and insulated more of it.... I did my lowered ceiling height later on and regret i didn't do more insulation before i filled it with work benches and wood. It wont take long to fill that baby up.... Congrats on the new shop!
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I'm on that train Kirk, everything is modular and on wheels until I can get those features squared away. Still need electric out here I'm running on the skeleton setup
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Wow! Nice shop! If I had one that size, I could put the bandsaw in one corner, table saw in the diagonal corner, drum sander in the next corner and edge sander in the opposite, and bench in center. I would probably put in about 2-3 miles a day, and never gain a pound! :clapper:
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Had a couple minutes waiting on ups so did a bit to keep me out of trouble with swap boss so here’s a pic :biglaugh:
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Kenny - what kind of bandsaw is that?
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It's a 17" Grizzly, been a good one so far, cut miles of laminations...
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It's a 17" Grizzly, been a good one so far, cut miles of laminations...
what do you use for saw blades?
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I'm on that train Kirk, everything is modular and on wheels until I can get those features squared away. Still need electric out here I'm running on the skeleton setup
How far from the house to the shop are you? Do you plan on running a welder? Reason i ask was that i was able to run a conduit underground about 30 yards to the house and used some 8 gage solid copper wire i had from changing out our well pump wire years ago. That well pump is a 3HP motor that is 450' from the 220 volt power source. I changed out the std. meter base at the house to a meter main base so i had a seperate circuit going to the shop and used an old 100 amp service for the shop. I've got plenty of juice for all my equiptment.
But unless you are familiar with electrical work, i'd highly recommend talking to an electrician for different ideas on how to do it safely. My neighbor just built his new shop a few years ago, and just ran a new overhead 200 amp service to the shop, and the electric company hooked it up. My shop was too far from the road to do a direct hook up without setting a pole.
I built my 36X36 shop back in 96 and put a wood floor in it. Kirk
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Luckily my power box is on the property and maybe 16ft from the building. I could also run a similar setup pulling 100amps from my main panel if the power company doesn't want to run me a second meter. 200 to the shop would be nice so I can juice up some sheds in the future in a similar fashion to what you're saying.
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Had a couple minutes waiting on ups so did a bit to keep me out of trouble with swap boss so here’s a pic :biglaugh:
Are you using the same blades for ripping lams as on that swing jig?
I did a lot of riser footings with a swing jig years ago. I’ve still got a couple hanging on the wall someplace that I mount my router on.
I had a big job years ago that had about 100 radius top windows and doors to build surrounds and casing for. There were even a few completely round windows. Big Spanish design mansion on the river. That was a fun job. They brought me in early and I taught the framers how get the rough openings built correctly, then came back in the finish stage and did all the trim and two spiral stair cases. There were very few guys out there that wanted to mess with radius work, and I made double wages doing it…. Fun job
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Same 3/4" blade, but that's about as tight as she wants...
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I was afraid this would happen with the curly hackberry. The grain didn’t hold up. The back let go around 18” after bracing. Oh well, I’ll use the limbs for handles and such. So time for the backup. This persimmon stave will be perfect for an English longbow.
Kyle
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Dang that sucks Kyle. That was gonna be a nice one.
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My victims bow is done. Need to make a string and put a rest on it yet but other wise finished.
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I was really looking forward to seeing how it would polish out, but I knew that piece was a major gamble. But I already got that piece of persimmon roughed out and ready to tiller.
And that looks great!
Kyle
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This one is moving along pretty quick. Ready for a heat treat and pulling weight at full draw just getting it cleaned up and bending smooth. Now to heat treat and will probably nock an inch off each end. Then I’ll refilled back down. It came around rather quickly. About 2 hours from stave to tillered. The picture is a bit shy of full draw, I yoinked it to full draw after the picture.
Kyle
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Be starting mine next week.
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Im with you Stic, ill taper my lams tonight and post a pic to somewhat follow the swap thread rules :bigsmyl:
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Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4” stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
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Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4” stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
Thats cool adding the riser stripe into the limb tips!
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4 point that looks like a pickup bed. What is it attached to ??
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It’s a 70 C10
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Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4” stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
Thats cool adding the riser stripe into the limb tips!
Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4” stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
Thats cool adding the riser stripe into the limb tips!
a taper slide during glue up? Maybe that doesn’t happen on takedown limbs? I’ve never made any. Yet!
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Well I have the bow in the topless form with heat strips. I like it better than the old way i was doing it. Have at 60 psi but will check in 30 mins as the mule tape is new and so is air hose. I have it set to 120 and am going to ramp it up 10 degrees every 30 mins to 150 then let sit at 150 for 45 mins. Should be good I hope. Crazy how fast you go through 100ft of mule tape.
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Ripped some wider glass so I can proceed … :biglaugh:
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All signs point to a good glue up. I really like the topless method with the firehose. Just need to remember to put the top heatstrip on before I rope everything down. 😡 there seemed to be a lot of bubbles on the out glue, hopefully that doesn’t mean there are a lot of bubbles behind the glass
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No bubbles so far, yeahhh!
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I have picked the riser block and veneers VICTIM
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Update.
Since I missed weight so terribly on the intended bow, I was forced to switch gears.
I had a beautiful walnut riser block layed up with a black actionwood flare. Layed up limbs with carbon on the back and black belly glass.
Riser has a thinner G10 I-beam in it that Im gonna try to cover on the back with full overlays and on the belly, I plan on full over lays except for the grip. This one hit in the weight range nicely.
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I made a little progress on the persimmon bow. Took it to a few inches shy of full draw at weight post heat treat and piking. Set is not bad at all at this point. I cleaned up the tooling marks and got the tips ready for the one nocks. The question is, which tip material? I have a couple pieces of blond horn, deer antler, bloodwood, Purple Heart, and ipe I could use. Any preferences?
Kyle
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Gonna glue on some curly maple and try to stain it as close as I can to the carbon. Here’s a pic of a quick stain sample to get started.
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Kyle - I think any of the choices you offered would look awesome as all your work always does. That being said, I would choose the bloodwood.
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Jon that maple would look good with clear glass over it.
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More progress
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Looking at it, i should have made my fades shallower.
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Time to get these fit. Probably all I’ll get done tonight. I’m leaving enough meat in case I feel the desire to get creative with the tips or keep them simple.
Kyle
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Afraid you may have a serious stress point or hinge at the tip of your fadeouts. One inch in from the tips the thickness should not be more than 1/16, less is better.Two inches in no more than 1/8 or less. The fadeouts should be able to flex when bow is bent.
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The blocks are fit but need cleaned up now
Kyle