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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: woodchucker on June 16, 2008, 05:31:00 PM
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OK Folks,most of you who know me know that I'm a "simple" old man.....
(NO!!!!! not THAT way!!!!!) :rolleyes:
Anyway.....I've got a small collection of Bear recurves that I shoot,but my "main" bow is my Mikuta longbow 62" 53# @ 28" and I draw a true 28".
As for arrows,I like wood!!!!! Plain & Simple. Helical fletch,125gr. field point,125gr. broadhead. They all fly were I shoot them. They don't all hit the target LOL,but when they don't it's MY fault!!!!!
Aluminium.....I have a few "Autumn Orange" 2016's that belonged to a dear friend who "made the journey" several years ago. These are my "Deer Hunting" arrows.When I'm hunting with them,the spirit of my friend walks with me. Again, Plain & Simple.....Helical fletch,125gr. field point,125gr. broad head,all fly where I shoot them.
Carbons.....Never shot them!!!!!
I do NOT want to play,tinker,tune,fiddle,fuss,etc. I'm not interestested in weight tubes,heavy FOC,assorted weight field point kits,etc. I want Plain & Simple!!!!!
So here's my question.....If I used a Gold Tip 35-55 (or some other shaft) could I use a standard insert and then a 125gr. field point,and a 125gr. broad head, and keep things "Plain & Simple" ?????
(or should I just stick to wood?????)
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Chuck, Im new to this but I just made up some CE 45/60s for my bow. One set of limbs is 45, the other is 56. I also made up some CE 150s for a buddy-still waiting to hear how they fly off of his 52# LB.
I used 100 grain brass inserts, and 125 points. I also footed them with a section of aluminum. They fly great.
I would recommend CE Hertitage 150s,brass inserts-100 grain, 29 inches or so. I think you will find you will be close(again I am a newbie) and 125 up front might be ok. You might have to tinker with the point weight, but you will be close. Being as we are sort of in the same draw length and poundage range, you should be fairly close to good flight.
On side note, I think you will like the wood grain finish on the 150s.
Either way good luck and shoot straight.
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I think you would find the 3555's with a 125 grain point/broadhead to be too stiff for your setup, assuming you want to cut your arrows to about 29". Particularly since you shoot a longbow. You would probably hear the sound of your arrow whacking the riser when you shoot. With a longbow, you need an arrow that will bend around the riser to a greater extent than with a recurve that is more centershot.
You might have better luck with a 145 grain point, which they make in the same diameter as the 3555 shaft. There are also some very nice screw-in broadheads in that point weight, like the Woodsman.
As an alternative, you could cut your shafts longer, and experiment with shaft length until you find the right length to use with a 125 grain point. But you said you didn't want to fool with that, and it kind of defeats the point of the Gold Tips anyway, since they are so easy to tune by changing point weight or using internal weights.
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Tinker, tune, fiddle, fuss and fume. I think those words pretty much sum up carbons.
Stick with woodies or alunimums.
John
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CX 150 or 45 60lb cxs with 100gr brass inserts cut to 30 or 31" you will say wow why? have I been shooting wood as carbons are tougher straighter and perfect spline shaft to shaft so crawl out of the dark ages and try what all the hype is about oh did I fail to point out the high foc you also can get with carbons :confused: :thumbsup:
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CX 90 they come 29’’ I don’t have to cut them standard insert 150-grain point fly well......stabow
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To answer your question YES, the 35/55 will shoot fine. I have tested 35/55's and CX 150's out of my 44lb Stinger and 53lb. Thunder Stik III with point wts from 125 up to 220. And they flew the same. Point wt has little effect on the spine of carbons arrows. Would you like to try some out? Let me know.
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I shoot 35/55 out of my Bob lee 46# @28" I draw 27, I have 50 grain brass inserts in them there cut to 29 with 125 gr field point or broadhead. They weigh in around 9 gpp at my 43 pounds of draw. I love to shoot wood but carbons fly like darts :thumbsup:
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I would say that a cx 150 should work great cut to 29" with standard insert and 125gr tip. They work great for me with R/D longbows in the 50-55# at 28". If I wont more shaft weight and FOC I have to go to a stiffer shaft and add point weight.
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One other thing I forgot to mention Chuck, it will make all the difference in the world. Whether your bow is cut to center or not...
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I have gone back to woodies with much pleasure, simple, proven and easy to fix.
Bill
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Chuck!!! What the devil are you doing!!! Your gonna give Greene more gray hair then he already has! Carbons! Its going to snow here in July... :scared: :eek: :rolleyes:
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Hmmmmm.....Maybe if my good buddy "Skipper" was still making wood arrows..... ;)
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I don't know diddly about carbon arrows, but just traded for some Vapor 4000s and got them today. I must say, I am impressed after years of shooting POC. Maybe I am just lucky, but these things fly great out of my 54# longbow, and are making me reconsider shooting woodies; blasphemy! I have read about bareshafting, adding weight, changing points, etc, but all I did with these was taking them out to the target and flinging away; they shot fast, straight and true and right where they were pointed. Am I missing something here, is this too easy?
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The problem with carbon is the technical jargon and accessories are all foreign to a guy that is just switching. They were a product of the compound age and as such are overly complicated on paper. I'm happy that the truth is they are an excellent shaft and no more complicated than anything else. It just takes a little research to figure out what you want and need. Imagine if a "trad" guy had first designed the carbon shaft, I bet it would be alot less complicated. But then I don't know - some of the physics discussed here can suck all of the fun out. Try carbon and you'll find they aren't so scarry at all.