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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Al Kidner on August 22, 2008, 09:11:00 AM
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Hi all,
I was just thinking today if anyone uses or has done in the past, full length tapered shafts that would run from a 23/64 point end to 5/16 nock end?
A bit like the Arrow Dynamics tapered carbons I guess. From my goldfish memory I think there called a "rat tail" taper. Again I'm not sure.
I like the idea of a footed shaft in that taper and from what the good Doc tells us it'll be bang on in regards to blowen through critters!
Many thanks,
AK.
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Been thining about that myself. Has anyone tried this?
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They would be the ultimate in tapered wood shafting. Don't know of any manufacture doing it. Just an FYI, Arrows Dynamics shafts are only tapered about 2/3rds of their length. The front 8-9" is parallel.
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Al:
The "rat tail" taper has been around for many a moon, however it was never considered the best taper in regard to the arrow response to paradox. the Breast and barrel taper were the best in that regard. But Howard Hill used the rattail taper quite a lot, tapering a 3/8" diameter shaft to 5/16" so who knows! The problem with that type of taper is they would be very difficult to manufacture without very specialized equipment, or done by hand like Howard did them.
Bob
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Thanks all for your input. I'm a timber shaft kinda fella and I thought this shaft would be a good line in someone's catalogue if they could taper 'em with ease.
I might try and taper a set and see what happens.
AK.
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Mother Nature manufactures that shaft... it's called "the shoot" and can be found in any hardwood or cane stand :)
I have a mess of primo 3/8" birch dowels I'd been intending on reducing to 11/32"... maybe I'll taper 'em instead.
Bob, I would thing a rat tail taper would be better in recovering from paradoz than a barrel taper?
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I agree. This does sound interesting and I can't imagine that it would be worse for paradox than a barrel taper.
Seems like you should be able to use one of the tapering jigs I've seen people make/use on this site for tapering the rear. You'd just have to make them 28 to 30 inches long depending on your draw length.
Two sided tape and some angle iron, but where would you get 30 inch strips of sandpaper? You'd almos have to cut up a sanding belt!
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That is how I make my homemade ash shafts. I start with a 3/8 dowel and sand all but the first 2 inches till I get my desired spine. They are not a perfect taper and I only like to go down to 11/32 or so because I tend to use selfnocks. They fly great out of my selfbows and my pronghorn. I hope they will aid in penetration as the good Dr notes.
My first trial this hunting season was a success. I blew thru a doe antelope at 20yrds.
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i also use 3/8 and leave a 8 inch taper on the point end , and run it after that at 11/32 the rest of the shaft . takes about 20 lbs of spine off and they shoot great . i can shoot 90 lb spine out of my bamboo backed osage static at 60 lbs, with this arrow type . h
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MM, buy a 'shop roll' of 80 grit paper. I think my roll is 100'.
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Jeremy:
I suggest you pick up a copy of "Target Archery" written by Dr. Robert Elmer.1943 He goes into great detail on arrow tapers. His research proved that the breast taper was the quickest recovering shaft with the barrel taper second, the rat tail was dead last only beating the parallel shaft.
Bob
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I'd like to see some high speed footage on that.
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I know a guy that makes em. He has a hardwood business and they make em out of all kinds of woods for their own use. I talked to him a few months back about making them in production. My only concern would be you would have to make em to length. I'll try and see where he has went with this.
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Thanks mate. I like the idea of this shaft the more I think of it.
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al i had same idea about two years back. so i made up 3. i just used a block plane and sand paper. mine ended up 23/64 at the point and tapered down to 9/32 at the nock. i lost to much spine for the bows i had. i gave them to a buddy who was shooting around 60# and they flew great. now you got me thinking of footing some shafts and tring it again. good luck. i would suggest maybe 20# over spine before you start but that is just an inexperianced guess.
matt
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Hi Al all the wood arrows I make now are tapered like that.I was barrelling them but it is a prob with turning the arrow around in my taper jig so now I just foot the front 9 inches and then taper it full length.I think any probs with paradox can be tuned out when you make your own and it dose get FOC right up there.
Cheers KIM
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I did about 800 of em a couple months ago for a fella whom owns an archery shop in Bend. They were old Acme POC spined 70-75 lbs he had on hand. They lost on average 30 lbs and ended up in the 40-45 lbs range.
As for shootablility and performance, I don't know. You would have to ask him.
stump
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Hmmmm, I did not think that tapering like the abouve would remove some much spine. I shoot bows from 63# and up so I'd have to fine some rather stiff shafts to start with.
AK.
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Al,
3/8 shafts are usually pretty high in spine. If you start with something like that it should give you plenty of room.
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I start with 100 lb spine and after taper I'll get 70-80. the finished weight 600gs +. thats with hard wood.
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Al
You diffinately have to experiment. I found Ash works best for me. Half the shafts from a board come out right at my spine and I leave alone for practice rabbit arrows and what not. The ones that come out spine heavy I taper sand for hunting shafts. You wont believe how easy 10lbs of spine comes off just using sandpaper wrapped around the shaft and your hand (with glove it does get warm). I tried some leapard wood and it spined way to heavey for me around the 100lb area. By the time I sanded to my spine they were knitting needles.
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I checked the birch 'shafts' I bought awhile ago. I had previously seperated them into spine groups. The 5/16" dowels averaged 45-50# and the 3/8" averaged 95-100#. I'd think a straight taper would bring it down to the 70-75 range.
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I have been doing 3/8 ramin wood dowels that way for years, you can't beat them :wavey: