Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Friends call me Pac on August 28, 2008, 03:50:00 PM
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I bought some slip on blunts to attempt to shoot small game with. These blunts weigh 100 gr. My field points that I have been shooting with are 125 gr. Are the blunts good to go by just slipping them over the shaft without a field point or do I need to come up with 25 gr to match the weight that I usually shoot? Will the 25 gr difference make any noticeable difference?
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what kind of arrows?
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Don't bother using the rubber blunts on squirrels. You'll knock them for a loop but not kill them. I think I had one flip me the bird one time.
:biglaugh:
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A little off point to your question but I jus gotta say this.
Rubber blunts are less than marginal for small game. Unless you make a head shot everytime, you're gonna be disappointed with the results.
Even judo points lose alot of small game, some of it dragging your arrow off in the process.
To answer your question, I don't think any of us shoot good enough to be able to tell the difference in 25 grains of weight from arrow to arrow.
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I have used them by themselves,AND with a washer(sorry,I don't remember what size)pushed in the blunt ahead of the wood shaft.
I never could see much differance,but then again,I'm not the greatest shot either.
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The only squierrel I ever shot at was with a compound and I got him with a blunt. That was around 1989. I believe the blunt was just slipped on the arrow shaft.
When I lived in Fairbanks I use to hunt hare with a washer behind a field point. Do you think I would be better off going that route? If not what would you guys suggest?
The remark about the squierrel flipping you off had me laughing. That was a good one.
I'm shooting 2016s at 29.5". 50 lb bow @ 28".
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nix the rubber blunts. no luck with them. I went to ACE blunts at 125gr. Love them. Last small game I took was a mountain grouse or two. Smoked them. Also, I have had no trouble retrieving them from my many misses either. ;)
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Stick & String or Cap & Ball
www.tradrag.com (http://www.tradrag.com)
Longbow: ACS-CX 58@28, GT5575 Traditionals, 2-blade Magnus, 530gr. total weight.
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cmon guys why no rubber blunts, dont any of you blunt animals for fun
couldnt resist..
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I like the Magnus blunts, with the bleeder blades. You can get those in 125 grain, too.
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Ace hex heads seem to do a pretty good job lowering the boom on small game.
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VA Bow, Thats funny :biglaugh: i know exactly where your coming from with that one. Them little suckers are pound for pound the toughest, stubbornest, craziest, critter walking this here planet. I've rolled several of them w/only a few kills when using a rubber blunt.
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I now use a wensel woodsman w. a severly pyramided tip and the back edges filed. Terry Green style
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I know they are on the expensive side but I really like the SGH from G5. They are shaped like a talon and are awesome on small game. They also dont bury under the grass so I lose very few of them.
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I love to shoot small game and I have never had a problem with blunts or judo's. I dont know why anyone would have a problem killing small game with either. Most of the time I get a pass through with them on rabbits, squirrels and grouse. They never make it far and usually are dead almost instantly.
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Originally posted by bowzonly:
I know they are on the expensive side but I really like the SGH from G5. They are shaped like a talon and are awesome on small game. They also dont bury under the grass so I lose very few of them.
My Buddy sho those G5 models last year and did great. I am carrying a couple this year but ACE is still my favorite.
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You can make these by cutting, or filing the tip flat on a field point. I cut a cross pattern with my dremel tool and added a washer. They are real cheap and work really well on rabbits. The washer makes up the weight you cut off the tip. Ace Hex blunts are the bomb, if you are going to buy some.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/CheapBlunt-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/CheapBlunt-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/CheapBlunt-3.jpg)
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The Ace Hex heads fit in the quiver, fly like a field point, come in many weights, pass through brush and bunnies, result in fewer broken shafts on impact, and pack a wallop. They are my weapon of choice on small game and stumps. Next in line is a Magnus blunt.
OK, couldn't resist!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Killdeer/TG%20Uploads/JLMBH/Img_5375B.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Killdeer/TG%20Uploads/JLMBH/Img_5330.jpg)
Killdeer :bigsmyl:
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Jessie, we're talking apples and oranges here..lots of us use "blunts" for small game but not "rubber" blunts.
Killy....I saw on another thread were you said rabbits are too small and toos fast for bows and arrows???????
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About once a year, I deliberately lie for my own amusement. It also lets me know who is reading me. ;)
Killdeer :biglaugh:
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Oh, rubber blunts are my weapon of choice on milk jugs. I have broken many a shaft with glancing hits on trees and stumps with them, but they are perfect for milk jugs. I think a hex would blow right through a jug.
Killdeer :campfire:
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hehe I just noticed that you have obtained chatter member status....now that's funny right there... :clapper: :biglaugh:
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And I am the only one! That makes me a eunuch person, right?
Killdeer :bigsmyl:
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Ace hexheads are best all around, I'd say, but I've got to add that the last two rabbits I shot with Saunders Rubber Bludgeons got full pass-throughs. I'd only use rubber ones on rabbits, though. Ace heads for anything else.
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Hex blunts are great. Regular steel blunts work fine as well but hex blunts have a cupped face and a bit more surface area then most standard steel blunts which helps keep your arrow from burying themselves in dirt and seems to give them a bit more thump. Magnus blunts with the bleeder blade seem like a really good idea too, but hex blunts seem to work better in thick underbrush.
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I personally think it depends on your bow and arrow combo. I have used rubber blunts with success on rabbits and squirrels, but I shoot relatively heavy bows, heavy arrows and heavy heads. My regular is 60-70lbs, 600+ grain arrow, and a 125 rubber blunt over a 125 steel blunt. Like I said, has worked for me in the past, but I think that the setup has to be pretty heavy to be effective.
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Originally posted by Killdeer:
Oh, rubber blunts are my weapon of choice on milk jugs. I have broken many a shaft with glancing hits on trees and stumps with them, but they are perfect for milk jugs. I think a hex would blow right through a jug.
Killdeer :campfire:
Yep. Also through rabbit skulls, the backyard fence and that old rusty chair over there that I shouldn't have chosen for a stump shooting target.
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magnus blunts with bleeders work for just about anything up to the size of a raccoon
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The wife was chasing me around with one of my slip on blunts after seeing the credit card bill and noticing how much I've spent so far on trad gear. But according to everyone I shouldn't suffer any permanent damage.
I try to keep her in the dark about such things but she got to the mailbox first.
I'll use your replies to justify another order to 3 Rivers as soon as the knot on my head goes down and visoin returns to normal.
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Post your credit card number and expiration date. I'll put the order in for you! :bigsmyl:
Killdeer~What are friends for? :wavey:
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The wife was chasing me around with one of my slip on blunts after seeing the credit card bill and noticing how much I've spent so far on trad gear. But according to everyone I shouldn't suffer any permanent damage.
I try to keep her in the dark about such things but she got to the mailbox first.
If you have kids order the stuff in thier names :bigsmyl: It works for awhile :thumbsup:
I have a friend that just turned 80 this year, his advise to me is buy it now while you can enjoy it, he also says it's only money.
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bbairborne... the Magnus Blunts fly just fine at whatever distance you want.
:thumbsup:
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I shoot lots of small game and my favorite all time head is still the regular old 125 grain steel blunt. I would use a broadhead over anything but I hunt with lots of people and dogs so they are out. Judos hang up on thick stuff and so do other points like the G5 and a field point sticks in trees easier than a blunt so it makes retrieval harder. For cost and effectiveness I go with the steel blunts they are hard to beat for bunnies and a host of other lil' critters. Shawn
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Just wanted to bring this to the top one more time, and give my experience hunting jack rabbits a week ago with rubber blunts. Like I said before, I slip a rubber blunt over a 125 grain steel blunt, total arrow weight of around 660 grains, out of a 61# longbow (liberty contender). Got a shot on a jack, slightly quartering towards me, at about 15 yards and made it count. Wish I would've taken a pic! Got about 6 inches of penetration, hit him in the shoulder area and penetrated through to his rear left leg. The hole was larger than what I have ever seen a broadhead do! Needless to say, he was dead before he hit the ground. I believe that with the right arrow, rubber blunts are perfectly ethical for rabbit sized game. I have also shot my share of squirrels, both ground and tree, with good effects. That being said, in my experience, what Dennis Kamstra said about blunting big game is rediculously unethical, expecially at the weights that he is known to hunt with. I usually love his articles, but find serious fault with that recommendation.
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I'm not exactly shy about the fact that my favorite commercially made small game point is the Ace Hex Head. The real advantage to them over regular steel blunts is the sharp, dished edge and how it grabs animals.
Two years ago I went o Ontario for a moose hunt. I brought enough supplies to make several dozen small game arrows. There were a lot of rouse around, and I intended to hunt them. With Hex Heads, even if I hit the birds off center, they’d still grab and penetrate enough to leave the bird about mid shaft. More times than not, the birds would hit the ground stone dead.
One evening back at camp, after having lost a bunch of arrows, I decided to make another dozen. There was a pack of regular steel blunts in my gear that I’d bought quite a few years ago but never used, so I figured I may as well put them to use.
The next day I got into a lot of grouse. If I hit a bird dead center, the results were the same as with a Hex Head: dead bird half way up the shaft. But if my hit was slightly off center, the arrow would skip off, knocking the bird silly. After running down and finishing off my second or third grouse from such a hit, my guide and buddy, Ted, asked me what the heck I was shooting those birds with. He noticed the difference too.
I told him about switching points, and he responded by telling me to throw the regular blunts in the trash and go back to using “those good heads”. So that’s what I did, and I went right back to clean kills and no more chasing wounded birds.
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Doesn't anyone use Tiger Claws?
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I've had the best luck using the Game Nabber by PDP. We've shot everything from packrats to picadillies(armadillos)with them ! They're especially good on Squirrels. Very rarely will this point stick in the tree. If it does happen, that's when we use the rubber blunts to try and shoot the "stuck arrow" or even a dead squirrel out of the tree.
Give'em a try !