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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Bear Heart on July 03, 2009, 10:40:00 PM
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How do you go about setting up your feathers to touch your nose.
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You draw a bare shaft to full draw and have someone make a mark on the bare shaft opposite your nose. Then fletch one arrow so that the back of the fletching touches the mark. This will probably be 1 1/2" - 2" from the valley of the nock to the back of the feather. Shield cut feathers seem to work best, as they seem to give me more of a definite point of contact compared with the more rounded off parabolic feathers. Left wing seems to work better than right wing. The cock feather should be about 90 degrees or maybe a little higher to the string.
Shoot the one arrow for quite a while before you fletch any more, because it is likely you will want to move the feather up or back a tad. The idea is for the feather to touch your nose at full draw.
If you rotate your head to get your nose behind the feather, you will hit your nose with the string. If you tilt your head instead, you probably won't hit your nose with the string.
BTW, I've noticed that Byron Ferguson gets a similar effect by holding his head such that the feather fits underneath his nose. You can do this with feathers mounted in a more normal position. I've tried this, and it works about as well, as far as I can tell. But now that I've refletched all my arrows for end of the nose contact, I guess I'll stick with that.
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okay Tim this is simple and a great way to set up feathers I use my upperlip but the nose works great the key to all of this is to have the feather like a 1/16th of a inch away from your nose at full draw and as you start continue your push pull the feather will come to your nose and bang the arrows gone this is why you see me and J. Turner hold so long neither one of us gap shoot. The moment of departure for the arrow is the most critital moment of the shot by a mile you have to do all this and still burn a whole through the target and of course become the trajectory of the arrow.
Imagine what would happen if the launch pad for the space shuttle moved durning launch
A good trick for the feather deal is shoot parabolics and start with on shaft with a 5" vanes
vanes cost almost nothing and use double sided tape to find the spot Then set up your fletcher up as needed Dave is right on about lw feather I use right that is why I use my lip but you being a southpaw shooter I thing rw would work fine for your nose If you have any?????? come in the shop
later Tim
oh the cool thing is if you give it time it will turn to musle memory and at somepoint you wont even need the feather anymore
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All my feathers are RW. I noticed that McDave is right, it's basically cock feather in. I just have to get the spacing correct. Need something when my mind gets tired or excited to get me to full draw. Thanks.
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I shoot right handed, left wing feathers, split finger. The feather to nose is more suitable to 3 under shooting. I touch feather to lip as stated above. Thumb touches ear, pointer touches corner of nose, middle to corner mouth. Very consistent results. Dont forget your back tension.
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I shoot 3 under so this might be perfect.
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Never thought about my nose and fletch until I read these tips recently. When I anchor now, I check my arrow position under my nose for a split second at full draw before I release and it does keep you on the beam.
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I fletch so the index feather touches the corner of my mouth. Same concept. I anchor with my thumb on my jaw AND the feather touching my mouth. Two points of anchor to help attain consistency. BTW I found this by replacing a broken nock and not putting it on "right". I liked the way it worked and re-oriented the nocks on all my remaining arrows.
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Bearheart, if you get a chance watch Rick Welch's second dvd. it will help especially shooting three under. When you do these things good things happen. Consistency, you get your head/eye down in the sight pic. and over the arrow, and it makes a small sight picture and that all together = tighter groups.