Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: varmint101 on August 29, 2009, 09:38:00 PM
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Hello, anyone have experience with Gold Tip traditionals? I've never messed with carbons, just woodies and some aluminum. Since I have a chance to get some at an exceptional price I thought I might try them.
My setup is a 62" recurve 55lbs at my 29" draw with FF string. Not set on a point weight, but I mostly have 125 grain heads.
Thanks for any input,
Matt
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The 55-75 GT's should fly great. I would think 30" with 100gr Brass up front with your 125gr heads should work well.
Rob..
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Thanks, is the 100gr. brass something that screws into the insert and the point onto it or is it the insert itself?
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No you remove the aluminum insert and replace with brass insert.Go to page 35 in 3rivers archery top left.
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It replaces the aluminium insert that comes with the shafts. You can see a picture of them at 3 Rivers archery. If you need a couple give me a yell. If you have never installed them, I can help with that also....As far as point weight, that you will have to find out by bare shaft testing or flight testing. I have found that what works for me, may not work fo you. If I can be of any help just let me know.....
Mark
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I fought carbon arrows in my mind for years... Then these traditionals came out and I tried them. I could not be more pleased. I am hunting only with them this year.
Mike at the Nocking Point has great prices/shipping on these shafts...
John III
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Thanks!
I haven't installed inserts before. Do you have to use an epoxy of some sort? I wonder if I can just get some from Gold tip. I'd probably need to get a G5 ASD too.
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just use super glue for the inserts. rough up the inside of the shaft and clean with alcohol first
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KY Rob is right on the money.
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I just got a dz this past week, with my 60" 57#@28" longbow these things fly like lazer guided darts, they are cut 30" with the 100gn brass inserts and 145 tips, I draw 29"! you'll have to play with tip weight to find you're tune but you will be close!
just one thing though,glue your own brass inserts in,clean well,scuff with sand paper,(both brass and inside of shaft)clean well again,and use superglue or jb weld, i like the JB Weld as superglue sets up to fast! I like these shafts so much I ordered another DZ! Badgerarrow (Paul) makes some pretty arrows!!
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Matt, the real strength of carbon shafts is just that "strength". It doesn't bend like aluminum nor break like wood. If your shooting a tough 3-D course, toughman, or hunting in a rough environment, then you need the toughest shaft...and that would be carbon.
I just recently went bad on a toughman contest. Out of 10 targets I hit 7 trees or saplings. At least two of the shots embedded in the tree and the others either passed through the sapling or glance off. I didn't break or lose any of my Gold Tip shafts, but if I'd been shooting wood there would have been at least 3 breaks. Aluminum would have been no better.
I like wood and will shoot with them. But I wouldn't consider shooting them at a tough 3-D course or toughman game.
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I shoot a similar setup to you, and 5575s's with a little weight as Rob said are the ticket.
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I've never used the brass insert. I've always used the std aluminum insert. If I need to add weight I used the weight tubes.
Are you guys using the brass insert to get them to fly straight or to add weight??
Inquiring minds want to know.
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The brass are much stronger. The most important part of your arrow is the ability to not bend or break should something go awry. Alum. inserts are kind of a weak point IMHO.
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I like the brass inserts mainly for the strength. and I have had a hell of time getting the tubes to stop rattling so the weight helps to.
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That's what I had wondered about the tubes. Do they just slide back and forth? I like the idea of the brass insert.
lol, put up the woodies and took out the 2117's. I was actually aiming for the black dot above the arrows. 20yds even. hmm.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/varmint101/recurve83092.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/varmint101/recurve8309.jpg)
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If you cut the weight tubes just a tad long, they will not rattle. Press the nock in place and everything is held nice and tight. They will not rattle.
Unless you use the wrong diameter weight tubes.....some are made for 5/16 shafts and some are made for 1/4". You have to buy the correct size.
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The brass makes them stronger and i like the weight foward.As Dr Ashbys reports show.
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Originally posted by KY..Rob:
The 55-75 GT's should fly great. I would think 30" with 100gr Brass up front with your 125gr heads should work well.
Rob..
I have not tried the brass inserts, but I'm shooting 5575s with standard aluminum inserts. I'm shooting 30.5" and 60#@29 from a 64" Brack. I also use 160 gr STOS glued on a 42gr adapter, so my weight is about the same as yours and they fly great. As to the weight tubes I stopped using them because they rattled. Until I saw 3Rs little vid about crimping the tubes. Now they're back in and I'm at 637 grains, and lovin it!
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to answere Otto's question a little of both when ever you add weight to the front of your arrow you decrease the spine, when you add weight to the back or nock your spine goes up. and adding weight to a light carbon arrow is a good thing for a traditional shooter. As for the tubes, Ive used them before add a dab for flech tight once you have them cut to the right leanth and shove them in. I kept blowing the nocks off when it hit target before I glued them.
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I had wondered about blowing nocks out with the tubes loose in the shaft. I'll just have to get the shafts and see which works best for me. Thanks for all the help. Hopefully I won't have as much trouble tuning them as I fear lol.
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Maybe I can jump in with a Gold tip/carbon question here.
Someone on this site kindly gave me some Gold Tip 3555's cut to 28 3/4, with 50grn inserts and a short 20grn(~1 1/2")aluminum "footing", which looks like a piece of aluminum arrow shafting over the outside of the carbon shaft. These fly really well for me, but are a little short for my draw of 28 1/2.
I am using 125 grain points and have a 55#@28 1/2 Kodiak Magnum.
I am considering getting some of these shafts, but would want to cut them to a longer length, say 29 1/2 or 30 inches, depending on how they acted. I like the 50grn insert idea... don't know if I would get around to the footings.
My question after reading the above, and considering the longer length is should I go for the 5575 shafts instead of the 3555's? If they are a lot stiffer, maybe I need a heavier insert, especially if not doing the 20grn footings?
New to carbon, so appreciate your thoughts.
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boznarras -
Where in AK are you? I'm in Eagle River, and if you want to try a 5575 before you buy a 1/2 dozen I will loan you one.
I can get about a 20~ yd range in the front yard. I have a few field tips in a variety of weights if you want to try a couple different combinations.
We're heading to MN for labor day weekend but I will be around next week.
Nate
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Boznarras and Nate
Highly recommend you both head over to Palmer and shoot the arrow dynamics hammerhead. Beats the living snot out of the gold tip traditional. No inserts, tubes or add ons. Just a weight forward shaft that tapers for the last 2/3 of the arrow producing a hard hitting arrow that flies like a dart from the shelf of every bow I own, including the 37# lefty longbow I'm building for Nate's wife unless Im very mistaken.
In my own experiments the AD Hammerhead out penetrated the 5575 in bison ribs, pork shoulder and foam.
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I think a 3555 gold tip at your arrow length and poundage with 200gr or more up front. I think 5575 will be a little stiff.
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I love Sitka Spruce but Gold Tips are the way to go.
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I used 5575's for a while and fought to get enough weight up front. Finally went to 3555's and got much better flight. I can use tips from 125 to 175 and not affect flight (except for drop).
My Bow is 55# but I only pull 26 inches.
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Originally posted by Rick P:
including the 37# lefty longbow I'm building for Nate's wife unless Im very mistaken.
Does that mean its almost done? :D
I'm flying to MN tomorrow, back next week. I'll give you a call when we're back in town and if your shoulder is feeling better you can spend some more time with my Mohawk.
Hope you're well
Nate
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Zero complaints on my end. I love em'.
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Nate C and Rick P,
Thanks for the offer to try the 5575's and the Hammerheads. If I was in driving distance, I would consider it. I am down in Wrangell, so it is not so easy.
Just thinking about it anyway, at this point. Like I said, someone on this site sent me some arrows to try, and the GoldTips were just one of three types. I was shooting 2216 aluminum, which is what the current Easton chart led me to, but this was too stiff. Funny, some of the older Easton charts that have been posted here led me to 2016's, which is the other arrow that was given to me...
I have had much better shooting with the GoldTips and 2016's, but probably should practice with them a bit longer before getting out the credit card.
Thanks to you and others for your advice, and I hope my question was in line with the original thread on this post.
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I am shooting two bows both about 55 @ my 29". I shoot a 29.5" GT trad 5575 shaft with 100 gr. brass and 125 point in one bow. On the second bow I need more point weight like 145-175 to get that one shooting them. I also have some cut to, I think, 31" with 50 gr. brass inserts. On the second bow I can also shoot 3555 GT trad shafts with, more like 50 gr. brass and 100 gr. points. The problem with the 3555 is they are almost 120 gr. lighter. That is too light for me for a 55# bow.
I have a friend with the AD's and I can say they shoot out of every bow I have tried them in from 45-55# and various riser cuts. I just can't bring my self to spend the money on them yet.