Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: david janssen on December 20, 2009, 07:55:00 AM
-
I was just curious if a bow is cut to center or past center does it make it easier to tune your arrows?Thanks for the advice.
-
I would have to say to center. If it is past center then you have about the same as before center. Center cut will shoot a variety of spined shafts is what I understand.
-
I dosen't matter, you still have to get the right arrow. With center or past you can shoot a verity of arrows most will shoot good.
-
A bow cut past center gives you more options.....you can always build out a sight window if it's past center but it is pretty tough to go the other direction if you need to.
Bows cut past center are also more accomodating to elevated rests, plungers and things like that if that is your bag. t's mine so I favor bow cut past center.
-
Which is better, a Chevy Vega or a Chevy Corvette? OK that analogy stinks. hehehe
I believe a "cut past center" bow will often require much heavier spined arrows to shoot well, however, as Bill stated, you do have options such as building the center back out which changes all of that.
ChuckC
-
What Bill said.
-
Cut past center with an elevated rest gives you the option to shoot vanes :bigsmyl:
-
I have 2 bows, same weight 53 lbs. One is cut near center, the other is not. The only real difference is that the bow cut close to center is more forgiving of different point weights and spine which makes it easier to try different broadheads with the same arrow.
Having said that, my go-to bow this year was the other one which I just spent the time to get tuned. Really not that hard and a lot of fun!
-
A cut to center bow is pretty forgiving on spine, point weight and release inconsistencies. The further past center a bow is cut, the higher the spine needs to be. I shoot and craft wood arrows and a long draw shooter with a bow cut 3/16 past can quickly run out of wood arrow spine.
3/16" past center is essentially a center shot bow. In my experience, this works fine with a release shot bow, but when you introduce the paradox of a finger release, things seems to work much better if the arrow has something to work against and go around. I like a center shot bow, but don't really want anything cut past center if shooting off the shelf.
-
I am finding this out the hard way. I am trying to figure out a bow cut about 2mm past center and it shoots 70# arrows or some 60-65# tapered ash arrows best shooting off of the shelf. I occasionally flinging another spine very well so its been confusing. I am going to try building the side plate out somehow to see if I can find a sweeter spot.