Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: brian brooks on February 20, 2010, 12:22:00 PM
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Have never shot or played with carbons and was thinking about trying some when my new Tall Tines gets here.Would you recommend a good shaft and glue.Should be around 56#.Thanks
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Firstly I would put a wrap on them first....easier to get fletches off after without wrecking the shaft.
then I would just use fletching tape....it's fast and durable.
just my .02 worth ok
Jer Bear
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definitely use the fletching tape - so much better than glue, it's all i use for all arrow shaft materials from wood to carbon.
as to carbon arrow shaft selection, what's the bow weight at what draw length? carbons have enormous dynamic spine ranges, which is why each shaft model has a large spine range. DON'T go by the manufacturer's carbon spine charts, for the very most part they're all way too high. go lower in spine. i shoot 55# @ 29" and my 29.5" carbons are beman 500's - these are 635 grain arrows with 400 grains up front.
there is no substitute for each archer/bowhunter to do their own arrow testing
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I have just recently started with fletching tape, and must say all mentioned above is sage advice...it works great!
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Fletchin tapes the only thing to use wen fletching.
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I also just started using fletching tape as well. I had my doubts in it, but it works great! Probably won't use anything else from now on.
Jack
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For me I like too put arrow wraps on any carbon I make up,as said it is so much easier to redo them later.I like to use Platinum Fletch tite with my wraps,but every one has their way of fletching carbons.
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I always used Fletch Tite on any shaft surface without any issue.Just be sure to clean with acetone the surface both of the feather and of the shaft.
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Never any issues with Fletch-Tite.
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Fletch tape, you won't be dissapointed
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Heard they were discontinuing the original Bohning Fletch Tite? Anyone know if this is true?
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Loc-tite gel super glue.
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I've had trouble with fletch tape. The feathers can be pulled off, or if your arrows lay on a flat surface the quill will start to separate from the shaft or wrap. I went back to Fletch Tite Platinum or Lock Tite Gel.
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Well I just got back into fletching carbons again, and I went with the tape. It went on great. Fast and easy to do. However, my feathers curl with it, and I have had many feathers fly off in the cold weather. I had more failure to bond to the feathers than the shafts I think, but some of both. When that happens in the cold I can peal it off like plastic cellophane. When it is warm it is rubbery and sticky. I shoot outdoors most days of the year so that doesn't work for me. I am very disappointed with the tape. Could be a bad role I guess, but I got it new from Lancaster so who knows. I would think they move enough of the stuff that this roll didn't set around on the shelf forever. I would like to try it again, but don't feel like wasting more money on tape and feathers. I already have had to refletch most of two dozen arrows and I still have feather flying off from time to time.
I switched over to Fletch-Tite. I always used that in the past, and so far no issues with that at all. Not one problem.
Wraps are nice, but I am cheap so I can't spend another $1 an arrow on the fancy ones. However, I will probably pick up some On stringer solids. They are a good deal if you guy a couple dozen at a time. I don't think it is that hard to strip black carbons, but the wood grain arrows are a little harder to strip without scuffing up the finish some.
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Originally posted by ryped:
I've had trouble with fletch tape. The feathers can be pulled off, or if your arrows lay on a flat surface the quill will start to separate from the shaft or wrap. I went back to Fletch Tite Platinum or Lock Tite Gel.
yer definitely doing something wrong. i found lost arrows in the woods, under the turf for over a year and the taped fletches wouldn't come off without stripping the feathers.
* clean the shaft area to be fletched with naphtha (lighter fliud) on a paper towel,
* don't touch that area with yer fingers (oil rubs off),
* you can do the same naphtha cleaning with the feather bases if ya like but i don't,
* apply the tape to the clamped feather base and don't let yer fingers touch the sticky part,
* put the clamp in the jig and press down (not hard),
* immediately remove the clamp, with the thumb of one hand press and hold down the feather at the front of the quill while pressing down hard with yer other thumb, rubbing over the entire feather length - this assures the feather & tape are well seated (some folks just run a fingernail on the outside edge of the feather base - i like pressing down on the entire feather base, won't hurt the feather one bit),
* now put a dot of glue (duco, fletchtite, whatever) at both ends of each feather.
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Originally posted by Bill Carlsen:
Loc-tite gel super glue.
I remember Frank Smego putting me onto that stuff several years ago. It works great. :thumbsup:
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Yip Good quality super glue, I have tried all the glues and fletch tapes and nothing has worked as well for me as Super Glue.
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Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
...* now put a dot of glue (duco, fletchtite, whatever) at both ends of each feather. [/QB]
Ah, the secret! I use fletch tite platinum but may try the tape after reading this. I know removing fletching that has been glued is fussy if you want to stay away from scraping into the shaft. Or maybe I 'm doing it wrong?
Joshua
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been fletching carbon shafts my entire bowhunting career. What I do is simple, no wraps or anything like that, alcohol needs to be rubbed on the shaft before you fletch them. There is a small film on the shafts from the manufacturing process, especially with camo printed or wood grained shafts. Then I will take like 400 grit sand paper and lightly rub the fletching part. NOT sand it, but just scratch it up a bit. Never loose feathers, even in 0 degree temps, and I find lost arrows under the grass that have been there for ever with the feathers still attached, but of course the are all matted and usually bleached. But I use fletch tite platinum. works great. And apply two dots of glue on the ends, and you are good to go!
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I use a cap wrap - 3RA sells them. Also makes it easer to refletch later. H
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I have used the beyond bond with the activator spray and its dry in like 20 sec.and never had one come off.This was when I had my wheels.
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Fletch Tite Platinum... I think tape, super glue or other mention ways work well also. I just have been using Fletch Tite for alot of years with no problems...
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Similar to what Chris Shelton said, and I also use fletch tite platinum.
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I also never had any problems with fletching tape on my carbons.
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Rob,
I've tried all of that but if I can get a fingernail under the edge of the quill I can pull off the fletch off up to the ends where I have glued.
I used the exact system you described with the exception of using Naptha, I used both denatured alcohol or acetone. The only SOLIDLY attached parts of the feather are where I dropped glue on the ends. I wish it worked better because it is handy.
I guess what I would recommend is to have both on a hunt just in case one system or the other fails. I have numerous fletches laying around the yard and in the snow from tape failure.
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I too have great success with Bohning Fletching tape. works great for me on alcohol wiped bare Traditional Only and GrizzlyStiks, as well as wrapped Grizzlystiks. Dot of Fletch-tite on each end. Quick and easy.
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"definitely use the fletching tape - so much better than glue, it's all i use for all arrow shaft materials from wood to carbon."
I used to use glue, because the tape I got was of poor quality.
Get good fletching tape, Bhoning worked great for me, do good prep work, and stick'em on.
It's quicker, cleaner, and the results are better.
That's my opinion anyway.
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I used quantum. you can get it at most trad archery equipment providers. cost a bit more but I have never had a feather come off any shaft wood or carbon. It is a pain in the behind to strip worn feathers off the re fletch. I am also going to try the fletching tape mentioned above.
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I've never tried it, but heard that the fletch tape can move around on really hot days. Any truth to that?
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I have had good results with Pine Ridge you can get it from archery past. I also agree go with some kind of wrap.
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Fletch tape and a dab of glue on each end.
I just did these today
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/P1000250.jpg)
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I will be in a long line of Fletch Tape supporters.
If you are having an issue it could be just one small part of the process. I use Fletch Tape only after using Bohning glue and CA Super Glue for years. Would not dream of going back. When done correctly there is no issue with them moving around...keep on trying and don't give up. Once you get it you too won't go back!
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John, on the money!!! as usual!
I just hate using it on my bamboo and wood shafts, but honestly works better and faster than ground horse hooves.
I swear, I hate plastic and its' byproducts, but if it can be hidden and works better, what the heck?
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Nobody yet answered my question - did Bohning discontinue making old school "Fletch Tite"?
Thanx
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Loctite 406 is the best I've ever used. Wipe shaft down with acetone and apply the smallest amount of glue possible. Done like this you have to carve the feathers off the shaft if they need to be replaced. Have never had a bond let go, even shooting thru plywood. Real bear to strip though.
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Does the fletch tape work better with cap wraps or a bare shaft?
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Tape sticks to everything I've tried.
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Fletch tape works with either bare shaft or with cap wraps. I like to use it and prefer to put it on a cap wrap for visibility.
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I use AAE Fastset Gel (bascially suger glue gel). I've not found anything I like any better than that on carbons. If I need to put glue on the ends of the ones done with tape...then why use tape(???). That's not a dig on tape, I've used tape with much success, I just prefer the super glue type gels when working with carbons. Just my 2 cents worth. Either will get the job done adequately.
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No matter what method you use make sure to prep the shaft prior to fletching them. I always wipe mine down with either denatured alcohol or acetone. Hardest part about using the tape is getting the backing off.
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Originally posted by Zipperhead:
I've never tried it, but heard that the fletch tape can move around on really hot days. Any truth to that?
properly applied fletch tape will be a bear to get off, even in 100 degree heat.
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Originally posted by ryped:
Rob,
I've tried all of that but if I can get a fingernail under the edge of the quill I can pull off the fletch off up to the ends where I have glued.
I used the exact system you described with the exception of using Naptha, I used both denatured alcohol or acetone. The only SOLIDLY attached parts of the feather are where I dropped glue on the ends. I wish it worked better because it is handy.
I guess what I would recommend is to have both on a hunt just in case one system or the other fails. I have numerous fletches laying around the yard and in the snow from tape failure.
before putting on the fletch tape, clamp up yer feather, put an arrow in yer jig, and fit the clamped feather to the jig. look very closely at how the feather seats on the shaft, particularly if the clamp is helical. any part of the feather base that doesn't sit dead flush will not adhere to the shaft.
i use a straight fletch clamp with slight offset. my arrows bareshaft quite nicely and i see no need for helical feathers that only add flying drag.
all the glues mentioned so far are 'gap filling' and those will greatly help if your feather base isn't down dead flush to the shaft.
fletch tape has a cure period. yes, you can fletch up an arrow during the car ride to a shoot and use it immediately, but the real cure takes overnight at a decent air temp and humidity level.
what i also like about fletch tape is that as tough as it is to get off the shaft, you won't need a sharp edge to scrape it off, just a good stiff credit card will do nicely. :D
i hate having to blade scrape off super glue, and risk shaft damage. :mad:
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Originally posted by Zipperhead:
Does the fletch tape work better with cap wraps or a bare shaft?
doesn't matter at all as long as your fletch tape process is a good one.
i use fletch tape with bare and cap wrapped carbons, and with polyu finished woodies. works killer for all.
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Originally posted by Zbone:
Nobody yet answered my question - did Bohning discontinue making old school "Fletch Tite"?
Thanx
afaik, no. but if so, who cares - there's always fletch tite platinum and good ol' duco.
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Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
Originally posted by Zipperhead:
I've never tried it, but heard that the fletch tape can move around on really hot days. Any truth to that?
properly applied fletch tape will be a bear to get off, even in 100 degree heat. [/b]
Being from Florida internal car temps can get very high even just stopping to pick up supplies 140 degrees. Deer season is often in the 90's. I use tape and have never had a problem.
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I agree with all the other fletch tape fans... I have used it on carbon, aluminum and wood with great success. Only issue I've had was with putting too much helical on a shaft - basically goin outside the correct limits for my jig. But it still held up for quite awhile. I always use the platinum glue on front, back and a strip in the middle to my feathers only come off when I want them too. I do like to use the wraps on carbon - just for ease of future stripping.
Bridog
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This may seem like a silly question, but I'm trying to find the best way to do this. When I use the fletch tape should I leave the feather in the fletching jig for a while to help it stick, or can I remove it right away?
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Saunders NPV is THE Best Fletching Glue for Any Arrow Or Fletching on the PLANET! JMHO.