Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: R. Combs on March 11, 2010, 08:19:00 PM
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I have been using Sitka Spruce shafts for about 5 years now. I like the strength of the shaft as they don't break as easily as cedar arrows that I used to make do to there long fibers. Being able to get them in a wide variety of grains per spine group is also a bonus. Another thing that I like about the shafts is that the Neil Hilebrand has all but eliminated any rift in the shaft so you really don't have to worry about fletching them for a right or left hand shooter. I know some people don't think that you need to align them like that, but I have every since I had one break and almost stick in the back of my hand because the rift was aligned in the wrong direction. The only down side to them is how long it takes me to straighten them. Usually longer then the rest of the arrow making process combined.
So I guess with all these benefits the only reason that I am thinking of trying Douglas Fir is because I keep reading about how straight there are. I know that I have read that they are also a tough shaft. Can you get them in a variety of grains per spine group?
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks, Rick
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You can from what I've read on the site.I'm sure if you give them a ring or send and email they will tell you.
I got some 75-80's from them and was very pleased with straightness.Cannot go wrong with surewoods!
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They can be a straight shaft material. I am working on a couple dozen now that took minimal work to get them straightened. They are a fairly durable shaft but nothing like a hardwood. I am not to sure about weight ranges. I have a pretty short draw 27" and usually ask to get as heavy of a shaft as I can.
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I have been getting 60-64 spine shafts at around 330 grains, that I put a 9" taper on the nock end and when finished with a 125 grain point and cut to 29" bop, gives me about 9.5 grains per pound off of my 48@28" lb. bow. Right around 460 grains total
Rick
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Rick, I am shooting 55-59 Douglas Fir out of my bow and cut 29 BOP and 160 Grizzly they are going right at 600 grains. Give Rick(Fletcher) on here from The Feathered Shaft he is a sponsor a PM or e-mail and he will fix you up. Rick still culls some of the so called good ones from Surewwod that is how particular he is. Hope this helps. Flint
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Rick, get yourself some Surewood shafts, you absolutely can't got wrong with them. They will get you hooked up with exactly what you are looking for in spine and weight.
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got mine from feathered shaft and love them. I will likely stop using cedars as they disappear.
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Rick, go to Surewoods website, look on the "mass weight" page, it will give you an idea of what yor shafts will weigh. They have a good range but WILL be heavier than the spruce.
Eric
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I think you'll like them.
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Doug Fir is good stuff, I have made my own shafts with it cutting blanks out of old porch floor boards. After weeding out the bad ones what are left is a very durable shaft that fly's well. It's a strong wood that is why they use it for cross arms and other components on electric poles and towers.
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i bought a dozen surewoods from braveheart and boy they are nice! just got in 2 dozen more.
on the first dozen i've fitted six with 190gr tusker concordes and internally footed the shafts with 1/8" oak dowel to stiffen the area behind the point.
the other six will be strictly for roving, with 135gr judos and i internally footed those shafts with 55gr nail weights.
all finished arrows weigh in around 565 grains each.
(http://www.tradgang.com/rob/grind/f20.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/rob/grind/f21.jpg)
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I too made arrows out of spruce first. Then I discovered Surewood doug fir shafts. The guys at Surewood are great to deal with. Give them a call and they will help you get what you need. :thumbsup:
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Doug fir is generally a little heavier than Sitka Spruce, about 20% is my guess. However, its weight varies within any spine range just like any other woods so a light Doug Fir for the spine range might be very close in physical weight to your spruce.
I agree with the others regarding Surewood Doug fir -- the straightest, highest quality Doug firs I've ever come across.
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Surewood is as good as it gets for wood shafts ;) Very consistent and the customer service is excellent!
Craig
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I have had 4 dozen made for me over the last couple of years and now am making my own and have 2 dozen shafts from Surewood on the way. I like everything about them and easily getting heavy weights is a plus. I have dealt with Roarke and Bob at Surewood Shafts and both will go out of their way to help you. Douglas Fir shafts have a lot more going for them them than just being straight, which they definitely are by the way.
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Thanks for the info everyone. I am going to give them a try.
Rick
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Douglas Fir soaked in Minwax wood hardener (ala the article in TBM ),60-65 lb spined tapered shafts, 28.5" long with 160 grain bradheads or F.T. finished out @ 572 grains
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My Doug. fir arrows I recently finished were 60-65 # shafts, stained, clearcoat 3 times, rear 10" taper to 5/16" cut to 29.25" with 160 points weigh in at 590 - 600 grns.
Best shafts I have ever had for straightness.
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the surewood fir per shaft weight range can vary by 50 grains alone.
after cutting to length and adding nock/point tapers, the 6 shafts i've been working on now gets clear coated with 5 wipes of min-wax gloss polyu (wipe on, first 3 coats are buffed with 4/0 steel wool), then i lay a wrap of 3/4" 3m blue tape on the shaft that ends at 8" from the start of the nock taper.
the front of the shaft to the tape gets 2 coats of min-wax polyshade 'american chestnut' shader stain, followed by a final gloss clear coat.
i remove the 3m blue tape and crest that area with sharpie pen colors and a pentel silver marking pen.
ready for nock, fletching and pointing up. i love making woodies. :thumbsup:
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I have had great luck with tapered surewoods made by Dave Doran at archery past. Great shafts, nothing bad to say. Dave hand weighs and spines so they are all right there.
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How 'bout some photos Rob???
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Originally posted by 3Under:
How 'bout some photos Rob???
maybe monday or tuesday, when i get back to the ranch.
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I've never tried "Surewood" shafts but my first order from Hildebrand was very good. They were straight and within tolerance for both spine and weight. They were tappered 11/32 to 5/16 (the last 10" or so).
Hildebrand also offers a neat tapper for hunting. It starts at 21/64 at the BH and tapers full length to the nock @ 5/16. I just started making my woodies again and treasure them a little more than the carbon blem's and alum's!
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I love the durability of the Hildebrands shafts. Once you straighten and seal the shafts, they stay straight. Everyone that I have made arrows for using Sitka Spruce really likes the toughness of them. Like I said, you can get them in a lot of different grain groups per spine group which is always nice. It just takes me a while to get them as straight as I want them, which is with no wobble at all. Darn, I have almost talked myself into sticking with Sitka Spruce. I don't think you can go wrong either way, both are good shafts,
Rick
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I just ordered some Surewood shafts. Two dozen for me and a dozen that I am going to make up for the St. Jude auction. Can't wait to get them. Thanks for all the input everyone.
Rick
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Originally posted by 3Under:
How 'bout some photos Rob???
(http://tradgang.com/rob/grind/j1.jpg)
(http://tradgang.com/rob/grind/j2.jpg)
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I've got 18 Surewoods on the way. Thanks for the finishing tips.
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I got my shafts Saturday. Nice and straight just like everyone said. Great guys to deal with also. I will post some pictures when I get them done.
Rick
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For a softwood shaft, you'd probably find them durable as the Sitka Spruce. If you go with Surewood, you'd probably find the quality of equal to Hildebrand but the weights will more than likely be heavier.
In a softwood, I think you'd find better quality in abundance over a larger spine range going either the Hildebrand or the Surewood route compared to currently available POC. But, I'd neither expect Hildebrand nor Surewood softwood shafts to stand up to the same abuse as hardwood shafting.
Best:)
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I haven't fletched them up yet, but here are the Surewood shafts that I am making up for the St Jude auction. I put a 9" taper on the nock end and dipped them in white with a orange fade air brushed on top of the white. They are stained in dark walnut.
Rick
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/bowbender18/2010_0406StillLife0025.jpg)
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I don't think you will shorten your straigtening time any by going with the fir over the spruce. I have made quite a few dozen of both the Hildebrande spruce and Surewoods. Both are very good shafts. The fir is heavier and quite a bit more durable. I stump shoot in an area that is very hard on shafts and the fir outlasts the spruce many times over espcially on repeated, hard, frontal impacts.
Patrick