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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: joebuck on June 07, 2010, 12:12:00 AM
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Years ago i bought the Woodpecker system from jerry simmmons...gosh i wish i had held on to that but.............Now I'm thinking again of going back to that. I have the woods to do it. Anyone out climb trees using this Drill and tap method? good ,bad, and ugly please?
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I use them JoeBuck. To clumsy for the gaffs like Mr. Womack but I do use the woodpecker system. I also use a climber a good bit.I like it because if I have a spot I know I`ll come back to I drill the tree and hang one of the lockons I have..I try to catch them on sale at the end of the season and have them scattered all over the swamp. I bring the bolts in and out with me and the stand stays.I also like being able to climb a "bushy" tree. I think it allows me to hunt lower and I really like that as I get older.I killed two deer this year out of a scrub oak ..I was about 12 feet up to the bottom of the platform.
There is another company building a woodpecker drill since Simmons don`t anymore.They have a really good deal on bolts ,Drill and a climbing belt at a very good package price. I`ll see if I can find it for ya.RC
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One other thing. If I`m hunting a place with my climber thats hot I`ll drill it on the way down and bring the loc on when I come back. Easy drilling from the climber.RC
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I've use lug bolts before in trees I have difficulty positioning my pole ladders. Mostly I pre-drill with a battery operated drill ahead of time and stick a soda straw or something else that aids in re-locating the holes if you don't leave the bolts in. I do find them uncomfortable on my feet when climbing using certain footwear. The holes can be a pain to relocate without something sticking out of them, particularly in the dark. :)
They can be extremely dangerous if you slip coming down and catch one under your ribcage as my brother did once. Fortunately he was wearing a heavy, wool filson coat and his injuryies only amounted to severe brusing. A Doctor friend in camp checked him out and said he rather lucky. and for sure don't wear rings.
Resinous trees such as pines and cedar can be a pain getting sticky stuff on your equipment.
Battery operated drills make the job an easy and efficient operation.
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Thanks RC..just got your PM..if it's good enough for you then thats all i need...i'm buying the Woody tomorrow...I plan on using them with my Quido........it's like a lighten bolt hit me in the head...my total stand nows weighs 9#...Quidos Web plus bolt....Do the bolts slip in out alright from Oct to Jan? i plan on removing them after each hunt?
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I have used the Simmons drill and bolts for 25 years. I have some steps and stick ladders, but the drill and bolts is the tried and true method for me. I like it because there isn't a tree that you can't climb. If I head into uncharted woods and want to scout/hunt, I know that I can ascend with this system and do it without much bulk. The initial drilling of the tree takes a little time, but once drilled, it is good to go for the entire season. I either hunt from a lone wolf loc on or my Guido's Web and I don't leave stand or bolts in the tree. I'm always ready to head to a new area and no one can tell where you've been hunting. I have figured out that there isn't a twitch your nose way to get up a tree and every method has is good and not so good. A light loc on or a Guido's Web with the drill and a handful of bolts can't be beat in my book. I have an over the shoulder bag that I carry the drill and 15-18 bolts. Here is a link to a drill that I am going to order this summer as a backup to my old Simmons.
http://www.woodyhunting.com/index.html
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Thanks Cliff.......would a Grade 8---1/2" 6" long be better than 3/8 for slipping?....as a wood man..will it kill a hackberry or pecan or persimmon or locust or water oak?
Thanks AMB......do you use the bolts also for your platform steps with your Quidos? or screw in? i am going to get a pouch sewed on the side of my Quidos..
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I use bolts dipped in the rubber stuff. I`ve drilled some trees in Sept and the bolts worked without a problem for the rest of the year.
Persimmons are too hard to drill. I prefer water oaks are whatever is about 12-15 yards from a feed tree..lol.RC
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Yes, I just drill holes for my steps. Once the tree is drilled, setup is quick and quiet, especially out of the Web.
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Dip the end or your bolts, 3 to 4", in that rubber in a can stuff. I use yellow so I can better see them in low light. Keeps 'em from being slippery, too.
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Where have you been JW??...good to see you around!.....i'm rehooked on this method...found have of my Woodpecker last night..going to order a Woody today.
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Sounds like you are set, but LW tree sticks are quiet, no-sweat easy, and only weigh about 5# more than bolts/steps. I have the sticks mounted on foam blocks on a Schuh frame when I use a saddle.
Dan in KS
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I'm trying to get away from strap on climbing sticks...I love my LW but so do the Squirrels!! They chew the plastic knobs offs and straps too as well as my Summits, Rapid Rails whatever..I almost had a strap breakage 2 years agos but i was inspecting as i was climbing up a LW stick and saw the damage...Climbing stick had only been up 3 weeks....tree rat almost knawled into..RIGHT THEN............i garaged about 6 sets of various climbing sticks and bought ladders..Hunted mostly last year from ladders but everyone that walked through the woods saw them too.......but inserting a bolt and climbing up tree and removing after coming down has got to be the easiest thing out there and lightest......is there any down side?
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I have just switched to the bolts and really like them.
I have also gone away from the rubber dip/spray and now spray everything with either bedliner or undercoating in the can.
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Re bar will work also.LCH
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The LW climbing sticks are great, but I would never leave them in the woods, except for maybe over a weekend when I will be using them.
I have used the bolts also. Biggest problem I had was trees that were to soft. Even if you drilled the holes with angle upward, they would be point down as soon as you put weight on them. I think it is a great system, but has its pros and cons just like any other system!
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Never left a stand or sticks in the woods. Up every time in, then back out. 7-8 minute process. Used the one/same LW set up for the last 14 years or so.
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Heh joebuck,
We bought grade 8 bolts at our local Fastenal store. 8" X 3/8" and dipped the first 5" from the head down in Plasticote in a can with sand added for traction. Bedliner stuff in quart can from Advance Auto is great too, but pricey. You can use 6" bolts if you want, just not enough sticking out of the tree for our size 12 Lacrosse's to suit me. I dipped my bolts 3 times and thinned the Plasticote with Xylene from Ace Hardware. Kept it from clumping up so much and allowed me to stick them in a drilled 2X4 for a final drying rack. And don't even think of skimping by buying grade 5 bolts, they will bend on ya ! My brother had to find that out the hard way after he would not listen to me.
We predrill trees in Sept when we can with a battery drill to save our Woodpecker. If we are in an brand new spot I try to hunt it the first time in the evening if I can, so much easier to do initial tree prep in the daylight. If it is a morning hunt I wait till it is just light enough to see a little then head up the tree on a new tree. Holes will fill in from season to season. Drill your holes on about a 10-15 degree downward angle so the bolts will not droop down under your weight. And yes, I do use 4 bolts at the top for my foot platform with a Guidos Web. If you do not put your weight on a screw in step just right it will simply turn in the tree on you as you use it to push off of in a Guidos Web. We carry our bolts in the game bag made into the Guidos Web. If using a Treesaddle just buy a cheap surplus army bag off *bay and sling it bandolier style across your chest to hold your bolts. Learned that trick from our good buddy Keith Karr ! Hope this helps bud.
nocams
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Joey,
I remember that ole tree bolt system you had, you were so proud of it! Boy did that drill make a racket in the quiet woods!! Man up and screw in those tree steps by hand! I am 50 and still do it!! Not as well as I just to but still use em! LOL!! :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl:
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Yes, they are slick to use. I have an original Anderson treesling, purchased in 1984! When I first saw Jerry's woodpecker setup, I got one.
I have used grade 5 bolts, no problems, but I'm not biggie! Mostly use allen socket head 3/8", grade 8.
As for trees, I hunt mostly from Hackeberry, pignut hickory, and hard maple. They have alot of holes, over the years. Heck we have maple trees that are tapped for sap, for years.
This past December, I pulled bolts from a Hickory, that were in for over 5 years. Didn't think I could, used a small pair of vice grips, gave them a twist, pulled right out!
Get ya some!
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You guys think 1/2" would be too big? i can buy 1/2" auger and have my welder make me a "woodpecker " knock off
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joebuck, Are you talking about steps/bolts like the the Skyhook steps ? I've been using Skyhooks since the late eighties, they're great. I think the company went out of business awhile ago, but they are available on e-Bay.
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You got me Stage...i have not heard of Skyhooks..you have a pic of them?
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tell you what works good. Get a few sheets of OSB and build some stands. then just take an extention ladder in with you to climb up on. It's alittle noisy, but If you are gonna kill something, It'll happen anyway. DB
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Joe, 3/8" grade 8 will be fine! My first drill was made of conduit and a 3/8" auger bit, cut down and tig welded a stop, pinned, and a handle attached. This was after seeing Byron's setup in his book.
Also use cordless drill when convenient!
Skyhooks use a small lag screw, with a seperate step that slips over the head of the lag on the tree. Kustom King use to sell them in the '90s.
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Ok the old API stuff..i have never used them....
Batman....that is some funny stuff right there..
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I don't think there making the API Skyhooks anymore, I'v seen some similar called Bear Claw Tree Steps very nice but cost to much for me.
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Joey: Just shinny up the tree like Gilligan. You can do it!
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I use 10" lag style wood ( I hunt in big pines)bolts from the HD galvanized and I set them up and leave them in.I also use screw in steps for the bottom 4,I can take them with me when I leave and the cheep-o stand stays in the tree.So when the dreaded tree stand thief shows up he better have some steps or he goes home empty handed.