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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Zradix on September 19, 2010, 02:16:00 AM
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Howdy,
When you are spray finishing a bow do you HAVE to fill all the pores. I don't mind the looks of having the pores there. actually I sorta like the "rough" look. I just want the bow waterproofed.
Problably going to use satin spray lacquer.
Thanks a lot!
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Most guys want the pores filled. The bow can look unfinished or unprofessional. Some guys fill the pores with superglue, then sand and spray.
If you are selling bows, you better fill the pores.
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They don't have to be filled,it is a cosmetic thing.It does make a professional looking finish,when filled.If you are spraying a finish,the pores will get as least as much finish as the surface,though they may look unfilled.
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What type of wood, are you sanding between coats and how many coats did you do?
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Ash riser with wenge accents. I have 6 coats lacquer on it now. I have only lightly 0000 fine steel wooled between coats. Then went over with tack cloth.
My first time finishing. The wood is stained so I was afraid to use a sandable filler. I didn't want to sand too deep and remove the stain.
I'm not looking to sell any bows.
This one is for myself.
I was planning to keep applying more coats to the riser only till the pores were filled. Not a big deal to do really.
I just was looking at it and I actually like the looks of the "rougher" finish.
Thanks for the input!
Thanks
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Go with what you like. Its only unprofessional looking if the detailing and the reasons for the open pores don't look like they are considered and supposed to be there. I've seen both types- its all in the way you do it.
If you like the open pore look consider the final coat of finish with a stipple or frosted. Easy to do. It will go along with the "flat" look that open pores give already. Open pores don't always look right under a smooth finish especially the glossier ones. Smooth surface finish and open pores usually compete and scream unprofessional.
I have seen some great stipple finishes. Just the other day a hunter complimented me on my Howatt Hunter with a stipple top coat. Mohawks sport a frosted, very flat finish that is quite handsome.
Joshua
PS- don't forget to let the final coat rest a few days before you handle it. You will be bummed if you rush it before it hardens completely. They will only seem ready- dry etc. This is especially true of off the self finishes. They can be pretty tough, but take longer to harden fully to get there.
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Most times it is the nature of the wood, so I don't worry about it.
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Do what you like, it will be sealed either way.
The pores will never fill by just spraying more coats on it. There will always be some shrinkage of the finish as it cures and it will eventually dimple a bit where the pores are. I was taught this by a pro furniture refinisher. Either fill 'em first, or don't worry about it. Wood is awesome either way.
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I have used super-glue, finger rubbed smooth-on, and many thick coats of CV. I think the smooth-on works the best...just requires a bit more sanding. Wenge has got to be the most porous wood I have ever worked with. It is a beautiful wood, but a pain in the butt to finish! :banghead:
I was reading somewhere about thinning epoxy for filling pours and also as a finish....for the life of me I can't remember where I saw it. Maybe it was here??? Hopefully someone else might know...
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I have many beautiful, hand-rubbed walnut gunstocks which are indented where the pores meet the surface. The wood has been waterproofed, and the subtle texture seems to bring the lovely wood a little closer to my touch. It is a traditional oil-rubbed finish, and I love the look.
Killdeer
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Probably was me. I thin epoxy and apply three coats on my bows for a deep seal . Then I can use whatever finish the customer wants over that. Usually Tru Oil to bring out all the wood grain and highlights and then a light spray of low gloss over that. The epoxy is the real deal finish that actually protects the wood though. God Bless you all and have a wonderful day,. Steve
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Depends. On a classic 50s and 60s gunstock I like the open pore look. A bowling ball finish doesn't fit. I've seen a lot of old Bears that have a little open pores going on and it seems to fit the bow.
For filling pores bowdoc doesn't recommend fillers but 3 coats of finish, wet sand, 3 more coats, wet sand, etc. until filled.
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Thank you all very much for the input.
I really do appreciate it!
I just wasn't sure if lacquer would actually seep into the pores while spraying. Sounds like it does!!
Reddogge.." A bowling ball finish doesn't fit"..that is exactly what I'm thinking on this bow.
I have some oil rubbed stocks too and really love em. Right now that is close to the look of the bow.
Thanks everyone!!!