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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Tyler2045 on September 30, 2010, 04:03:00 PM
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Does any one know how much 8/32nd all thread weights per inch in grains. I am going to use it to up my arrow weight by screwing it into the back of the insert, I have done a search but could not find it. Help please. God Bless Ty.
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Are you asking how much 8/32 threaded rod weighs.You can get GT weights and PDP weights that screw on to the back of inserts that weigh 10,20 and 50 grs. and you can stack these weights.These weights have a allen head and can be screwed on with a long allen wrench from the nock end.The 8/32 rod will not stay tight unless it is bottomed out on the back of the field point or head or you epoxy it to the back of the insert.The GT and PDP weights will hold tight when tightened down with the wrench.
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I dont have the inserts and season starts tomorrow so this is a temp fix I will glue the rod in but need to know the weight so I can get my arrow close.
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Ty, Season opens tomorrow? Shoot what you have been practing with...
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Ty,the best I could do was measure a 1/4" threaded section cut from a screw-8 grs per 1/4".32 grs per inch should be close.Good luck.
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Oh,and that was a steel screw.I believe brass weighs a little more.
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Just cut the top off a 1" screw, steel, probably from an electrical box. Got just over 29 grs.
Good to know!
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Leave the head on,has to be groung down to fit in shaft (put in drill and lay a file to it until it fits),grind a length of steel rod (about 36"long) to make a "spade" bit at one end and you have a do-it-your-self weight system,plumbers tape on thread locks it in. 2" brass bolt weighs 50grns,hope this helps,cheers Pete.
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I will not be shooting these until later next week, I am not going to get to hunt tomorrow or Saturday, And I will be preaching on Sunday work Monday thru Wednesday, be hunting the rest of the week to Sunday. God bless Ty
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I put in about 2.5 inches of steel all thread. I think it will be enough. I am just trying to make sure I am shooting over 10 gpi. Which I should be now. Ty
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Pete,
That is a great idea! I read a thread here–really worth reading–about the perfect tough arrow where a tapered wood dowel was put behind the insert to help keep the arrow from overflexing and breaking just behind the insert in the event of a bad strike. Leaving the head on the screw that way a couple of inches back and a little under inside diameter might help accomplish the same thing. Thanks!
Sam
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Pete,
That is a great idea! I read a thread here–really worth reading–about the perfect tough arrow where a tapered wood dowel was put behind the insert to help keep the arrow from overflexing and breaking just behind the insert in the event of a bad strike. Leaving the head on the screw that way a couple of inches back and a little under inside diameter might help accomplish the same thing. Thanks!
Sam
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Thanks sffar, I also fit an external alloy footing 1-1/2" 21/17 shaft up front to make a very strong arrow, weighs about 15 grns.cheers Pete.
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You have to keep in mind that when you add weight to the front end of your arrow,that changes the dynamic spine of the arrow,making it weaker.If you were tuned to begin with and add 100 grs upfront,that could change the spine as much as 25# or more,depending on the bow.That is a lot and will make your broadheads impact differently than your field points.
If you want to build arrows with substantially more front end weight,you need to start with a stiffer spined arrow and tune it to the front end weight.You won't get any advantage from a weight increase if the arrows aren't tuned for good flight.Poor arrow flight will decrease penetration a lot.
If you are shooting the broadheads and they hit where you look and don't wobble side to side,you should be good.
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With the season here upon us, I wouldn't change a thing to your setup. Now is not the time to be experimenting with new arrow weights. I'm sure that with a razor sharp head you will get all of the penetration that you need.
Good luck.
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If they are to weak then I will let my wife use them to practice with no big deal. Ty