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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: salemons on February 05, 2011, 10:23:00 AM
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I just got a 47# (45#) 66" T/D Mohawk from Terry that was Rob's once upon a time. Trying to use Stu's calculator and was wondering if anyone knows the center cut?
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I think it's 1/16th.
Marco
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yes, 1/16" proud of center.
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Hmmm, just measured mine and got a good 1/4" from the center of the limbs to where a 11/32 shaft touches the leather plate. Mine is a 68" 45# @ 29". 30" 50/55 POC shafts with 125gr points shoot like bullets out of it.
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most bowyers will cut the arrow plate from centershot and on out, and some will go centershot negative. for most bows, you can adjust the riser arrow plate to your liking with a rasp and sandpaper, use cya to seal and wipe on some clear coats ... or send it back for an adjustment.
having full centershot *might* mean the bow will be more tweakable for a wider range of arrow spine. then again, mebbe not. there are a lotta factors involved and even an elb shot off the knuckles is capable of great arrow flight once the right arrow/spine is found.
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Not sure where my Mohawk shelf is cut to, but I will say its a very spine tolerant "D" bow. Mine is #50 @ 28 and so far it shoots any spine I have well.
Cedar 55/60, 60/65, CE 150's/250s. I bare shafted the CE 150s, cut to 29.5 with 200 grain point, they flew straight as a fletched shaft and were grouping with the fletched shafts at 15 yards.
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everybody's different. that's what makes the world go 'round.
i fling carbons ranging from 35 to 75 pound spine outta my 'hawks and they all fly 'straight and true'. dittos for woodies 45 to 70 pound spine. other folks just can't do this. why? think about it. what's the UNcommon denominator? right - it's you. dif'rent strokes fer dif'rent folks. it's all good.
having an arrow shelf/plate cut to centershot means tweakability room for arrow spines and the way you shoot. it's a good thing to think about if yer getting a custom bow built ... or a reason to take rasp, abrasive paper, and some clear coats to yer bow's riser shelf. ;)
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hello,
on mine it's 1/16+ plate. It a 50@27 mohawk (i draw 27)
I use 45-50 Sitka at 28' BOP out of it with a 125 gr point, heavy cresting and 5 shield feathers (homemade low profile). great shot every time !
++M
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Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
everybody's different. that's what makes the world go 'round.
i fling carbons ranging from 35 to 75 pound spine outta my 'hawks and they all fly 'straight and true'. dittos for woodies 45 to 70 pound spine. other folks just can't do this. why? think about it. what's the UNcommon denominator? right - it's you. dif'rent strokes fer dif'rent folks. it's all good.
having an arrow shelf/plate cut to centershot means tweakability room for arrow spines and the way you shoot. it's a good thing to think about if yer getting a custom bow built ... or a reason to take rasp, abrasive paper, and some clear coats to yer bow's riser shelf. ;)
You want to be careful "Taking a rasp to yer bow shelf" I think that would be a serious "void your warranty" issue with most bowyers. i would highly recommend sending it back for adjustment.
The thing to remember is that the weakest part of a bow riser is at the back of the shelf cut out. if this isn't done correctly with a nicely rounded corner, you can end up with a riser failure..... those are not fun either... food for thought... Kirk
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Sorry for being a little slow. Is the Mohawk cut 1/16" shy of center or 1/16" passed center?
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Short of center.
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Swamp Yankee ---Thank you!
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Kind of a thread jump, but to second Rob's observation relative to different strokes for different folks, my 66 inch Mowhawk is 54 @ 30 inches of draw ( thanks again Mudd!!), LOVES 31 inch woodies, 73 pounds of spine with 145 grain heads on them. They shoot as well as carbon, but are so much quieter. I also use a skinny SBD string, 8 strand. Very quiet and Very fast.
Bob.