Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: 3Feathers on February 14, 2011, 06:26:00 PM
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How does the tape hold-up to a poly finish on
wood arrows?
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I use the tape on my woodies that have been soaked in danish oil and those that have a coat of polyurthane. Now problems with the tape on either shaft finish so far.
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So far every arrow I have tried from new poly coated cedar to carbon woodgrains to aluminum to antique cedar with varnish. Very happy so far with the tape.
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Never had a problem with any shaft coatings. I do suggest you clean your shafts (what ever coating you have on them) with denatured alcohol before you apply the fletching. I even wipe my fletch base in the clamp with alcohol before I put the tape on.
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Glad to hear that fletch tape works. Have been thinking on trying out on some stumpers.
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Just ordered some saturday from 3Rivers. Can't wait to try it out.
Glenn
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Originally posted by 3Feathers:
How does the tape hold-up to a poly finish on
wood arrows?
not a problem at all. i've found lost woodies nearly a year later in the woods with the fletch tape firmly attached. this stuff is killer. i see no need to ever go back to glue for any shaft material fletching.
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I've tried to remove worn fletchings secured with fletch tape from my cedar arrows without warming them with a blow dryer first...it literally ripped the arrow apart along the grain. I've also had the same experience as Rob. It goes on quick and easy, sticks tight, and can be removed with some heat from a blow dryer if fletch repair/replacement is necessary. Two thumbs up in my opinon! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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All right you guys make this sound so good. I am ordering some now so i can try it out.
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the tape is great! it's all I use now. This past spring I found a couple arrows that I had lost in the deep snow in WV and the feathers were in real bad shape but the tape was still stuck on there real good. Didn't know about the blow dryer trick, that would have saved me some pains. ;) :thumbsup:
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The tape works great, a very popular item. :thumbsup:
Link - Fletch Tape at Braveheart Archery (http://www.braveheartarchery.us/new_page_32.htm)
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Fletch tape is the way to go. Great stuff a little hard to peel the backing off but once you figure it out and get a system you can fletch an arrow fast. No drying time either.
Al
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The stuff just flat out works. Some of my buddies who have been making arrows for years longer than me, give me a little junk because I get a little farther away from the tradition than they do, but it is just a product that flat out works. Not to mention, even the indians didn't have Duco.
Just remember to put a dab of glue on the front and back of the feather to smooth out the transition
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Fletch tape is all I use. :thumbsup: ....DB
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My experience has been the same as Rob's also. Lost an arrow in a vine maple, found it 6 month later (it had been through a wet NW winter), and the feathers were shot. They were still stuck to the shaft though!
RonP
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That's all I use. It's clean and fast. Used it on wood, carbon and aluminum and never had a feather come off.
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A little trick ive learned. The little small swiss army knives that have the scissors work very well for cutting the tape, and pealing the backing off. works great.
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It is a great product. I have used it on every shaft type. I have never had a failure of the tape in any way.
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Hey Tim, how have you been?
I use it on all my arrows, and it holds up to all arrow finishes, and it holds up really well with all the stumping I do.
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I do hear it does have a shelf life like any adhesive but have yet to determine it.
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fletchtape convert here too. No need for glue except for sealing up the ends of the fletching and for nocks.
I posted a while back about peeling off the tape backing after putting it on the fletching. I got good advice about cutting the tape about 1/4 inch longer than the fletch on each end and sticking the forward tip to the fletch and the clamp. With the tape stuck to the end of the clamp it peels off easily with your fingernail or a knife. Then slide the clamp onto the jig and press it to the arrow shaft. I can get one arrow fletched in less than five minutes with fletchtape. Since I own only one jig that's a huge timesaver for me.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=097197
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I've had trouble with one of my feathers sliding on my carbon shaft after a few shots.
I shoot 3 fletch and the gap between 2 of the feathers narrows. I haven't noticed a significant flight difference with field poits under 20yds, but I only use it now when tuning and I need to make quick changes. Once set I revert to glue.
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Used it on a dozen wood arrows and haven't had any problems.
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Originally posted by chopx2:
I've had trouble with one of my feathers sliding on my carbon shaft after a few shots.
I shoot 3 fletch and the gap between 2 of the feathers narrows. I haven't noticed a significant flight difference with field poits under 20yds, but I only use it now when tuning and I need to make quick changes. Once set I revert to glue.
there's only one correct procedure for using fletch tape. mess up any part of the procedure and trouble could/would occur.
the cap area of the shaft must be clean. i use naphtha (lighter fluid - it's non-invasive and flashes off fast). after loading the fletch into the fletch clamp, the quill base must be cleaned, too, using a swipe of naphtha on a piece of paper towel.
now, don't touch the shaft cap area or fletch quill with yer fingers, or you stand a chance of contaminating with body oil/dirt.
pull off and lay down a strip of fletch tape to the front of the quill base, align and press as you lay the tape down on the quill. don't touch the sticky side, you might contaminate it with oil/dirt - if you do, don't use that part of the tape, snip it off.
using sharp scissors, snip off the tape roll right at the end of the quill, snip off the excess tape at the front of the quill. use yer fingernail to press real hard on the tape's plastic backing, for its full length. do that one more time.
use a thin, sharp blade (i use an xacto) to separate and lift the backing off the front end of the tape, pull off with yer fingers, put the clamp in the jig, press down on the shaft firmly - do not touch the cap area with yer fingers, you'll contaminate it with finger oil/dirt. press down on the clamp one more time. squeeze and remove the clamp. do it again 'til the shaft is fletched.
after the fletchings are stuck on the shaft, you must go over each feather one more time and press down onto the shaft. there are two basic methods for doing this - run a fingernail down firmly along the proud edge of the fletch quill base, or hold the front of the quill down with the thumb of one hand while the thumb of the other hand firmly presses the fletch barbs down to the quill base -- this is what i do, it's faster and does not harm the fletch in any way.
still not done! put a drop of fletch cement on the ends of each feather to smooth the transition of the quill to the shaft.
nope, still not done!! fletch tape has a 'cure' time. yes, you can shoot the newly fletch taped arrow, but the tape will not be fully 'cured' for it's maximum bond for at least a few hours. i leave 'em be overnight.
now yer done!!! and wasn't that fast and easy?! :thumbsup: :D :campfire:
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Nothing but great results using tape.
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I have a ?, I use tape and really like it, however recently I fletched a 1/2 dzn arrows and for the first time I used a cap wrap, I have had a couple of feathers slide at the back end even though I used a drop of fletch cement(fletch tite platinum) :dunno:
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I have had fletch tape for years, use to carry a few feathers with tape on them in pack for field or hunting repairs. then I was out of duco and decided to use it and I put it through the paces and had no problem with it, using the gasket sealer system on my woodies. Still use it to this day and for the money compared to glue think you get more for your money.
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Originally posted by mongoose:
I have a ?, I use tape and really like it, however recently I fletched a 1/2 dzn arrows and for the first time I used a cap wrap, I have had a couple of feathers slide at the back end even though I used a drop of fletch cement(fletch tite platinum) :dunno:
two words to ponder: clean and pressure.
the shaft and feather quill MUST be oil free.
you must use FIRM pressure to seat the tape fletched feather onto the shaft and again after the fletch is stuck down.
read my post up above ^^^
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Fletch tape is one of those epiphany things, You know. Where were you all of my life?
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I use Fletch tape BUT I will admit I have issues sometimes. I chop my own feathers. I chop 2-4" feathers from a full length feather. I am noticing more and more that I get some feathers with very thin quills. I do try to use as much of the thicker quill I can but depending on that particular feather, I may get a thin quill. After some time these feathers seem to want to lay over on me. I do put a dab of glue on my fletches to help hold but that is not enough to hold upright. What I plan on duing from now on is use tape on the good feathers but use all glue on the thin quill ones........
Bill
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Thanks Rob, I thought I'd done those things, but maybe I was a little careless or something. I've used tape in the past with no problems and I have never used cap wraps before, maybe I touched the wrap :banghead: :campfire:
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I haven't started making my own arrows yet, but will be giving it a try very soon. I did a copy & paste of Rob's post and saved it for future reference.
Thanks. :thumbsup:
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It works great I have missed targets and went through the grass chunks of feather missing and tape still stuck down tight great product
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All I've used for probably 15 years. Still shooting some taped arrows that are 10+ years old. As usual, Rob is dead-on.
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I just started using the Bohning brand fletch tape that 3Rivers sells. Really like it. At first I had a little trouble figuring it out, though. When I began pulling the tape off the roll, I wasn't sure if I was peeling off the backing or the tape since it's so thin. When you pull it off the roll, it should look like a reddish pink. When you peel off the backing, the tape should then be clear.
Getting it perfectly straight on the quill part of the feather was a bit tricky at first, but not too bad. I always left about 1/8" extra both front and back.
The hard part was trying to peel the backing off the tape once you got it all lined up on the quill part. The youtube and 3Rivers videos showed how to do it using a razor or small knife, but no matter how hard I tried it with one, I couldn't get it. Ended up using my index fingernail to push the tape down at the end, the 1/8" part that overhangs, which in turn would sometimes (but not always) cause the backing to separate. From there, I'd fenagle the backing a bit more with my fingernail til I could finally grab it and peeled it all the way off.
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One other thing. I've only used it on cap wraps so far. The first time I used it, I not only put a drop of glue front and back, I also ran a bead of glue along the entire length of the quill. One thing I noticed, though, is that for whatever reason, the tape no longer held. I'm not sure if the glue caused the adhesive in the tape to deteriorate or if it was just some freak thing, but I had to reclamp the fletch and basically glue it back on. After that, I only placed a drop of glue front and back.
On another occasion, the middle part of the fletch got loose, with the ends still holding strong. Probably occurred because I never bothered to clean the cap wraps like others have suggested in this thread. I simply reglued the fletch with the Platinum-tite, and it's been good so far.
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so this tape stuff relly works good?
im going to buy a arrow saw and flethcing jig soon and will have to give this stuff a try
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I got some tape about a month ago and used it for the first time about a week ago...experimenting with some carbons. The tape works awesome and I will be using it in the future for sure! like Rob mentioned earlier, you do need to let it cure and I leave mine overnight to do so. No probs with fletches sliding or coming off the cap wraps! I clean my shafting and feather bases with alcohol preps....the medical type you get at hospitals or a pharmacy or WalMart over where they keep the diabetic supplys. These preps are cheap for a lot of em and they work great! When you open one up for use, just wring it out a tad as not to oversaturate in the case of using it on a fletch.....shaft, doesnt matter. You find them useful for a ton of other stuff too!
Using platinum to pin the toe and heel of the fletch down not only gives you insurance in strength but also seems to quiet my nanners down a tad! Fletch tape is the bomb for sure!
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I use the cap wrap and feltch tape on aluminum. I just clean the shaft with regular alcohol, put on the wrap and feltch. I do dab a litle glue on each end of the feltch. I've never had any problems! Jason
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And here's a pic of the first batch of arrows I've ever made using fletch tape - 2016 aluminums with white cap wraps:
(https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/852250/fullsize/000_0007.jpg)