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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: xtrema312 on February 14, 2011, 07:40:00 PM
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I just cut three more of my CE shafts and had some issues with my saw having a little kick and splintering of the shaft right as it finished the last of the cut. I had one do it a while back, but now I have two more. That is three of the six now. One is real minor. The first I fixed up with super glue. Looks like I need to work on another one now with the glue.
I am using a Harbor Freight saw so I know it is not an ideal tool for the job. The blade is fresh and I took care to cut slow and let the saw have little breaks during the cut to speed up. I never have had any issues cutting my GT’s and Beman arrows. Is this just a CE issue? Does this happen at all with other saws?
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I have a Weston 8000 rpm arrow saw and have not had a problem. I have cut quite a few carbon express arrows. I don't know what would be causing your problem. Could your arrow be vibrating as it is being cut off?
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My cut off end is not supported. Is it supported on an arrow saw? I just cut some other shafts without issues. It looks like the outer layer of the CE Heritage is parallel to the shaft length. Maybe on my other shafts the outer layer is wrapped or something different. I can’t figure out why the CE is the only one having the issue. I wish I had a bad CE shaft I could test cut more to see if technique plays a role.
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in the past i wraped masking tape and cu in center of tape
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Yes it is supported. I rest it on the support and kind of push and roll it into the blade.
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Man, I have been using my Dremel MultiMax for this task---it works pretty good with the wood/metal blade installed.
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I cut all my shafts using a hand held dremmel tool. Cut it a fraction long and hold it flat on the blade to grind it flat. Speed is the key here. Have had no problems. Roy
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Are you rotating the shaft as you cut? You should be, if not.
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Are you cutting them straight down through,like with a Harbor Freight mini saw?I use a Harbor Freight saw,what I did on the adjustable stop I made for my jig.I drilled a taper in the stop block with a chamfer bit to keep the nock end centered,with the taper hole I can just bring the saw blade into the shaft and rotate it as I cut.This gives me a cleaner and squarer cut,this is how the more expensive saws cut.
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what blade are you using?
Mike
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like chub said...wrap them with tape and go slow (push down slower) towards the end. I bought my buddy the same saw and works well with those few adjustments. can't beat it foR $20, his chipped some until we taped .
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I will try the tape. I am sure that would help. I thought about that last time I cut the CE shaft, but forgot to try it this time.
I cut slow and easy to finish off. I don't typically rotate because it is in a clamp. I will have to try and create a jig so I can rotate when cutting. I did rotate the last one a couple times by stopping cutting and turning it a little than setting the clamp again. I thought I got around so the last of the cut was not all the way down on the bottom of the shaft, but it still splintered just a tiny bit.
I use the standard blades. Is there a better blade to use?
I just don’t get why these are the only shaft to do this on me. It must be something to do with the way the outside layer is applied to the shaft.
I love the little saw for tuning, but may need to get my CE’s cut at a shop next time.
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I'm assuming when you say a standard blade it's a composite disk and not a toothed blade. You can't cut carbon or aluminum with a toothed blade.
Mike
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Is it the little orange saw that comes with toothed blades? I bought one of those once and it worked OK but I had the same problems you did at times with certain carbons. It works on aluminums if you take your time. I could not find any blades for it other than the toothed ones. It works OK for what it is but, as you said, it is not the ideal tool for the job. I had better luck with a cheap Dremel with a cut off wheel on carbons. Eventually I saved up and got an arrow cut off saw. It is the way to go if you are cutting a lot of shafts.
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Yes they are the fine tooth blades. I will have to do some checking to see if I can find a different blade type for them. Time to do some Pow Wow searches to see what I can come up with for blades for this little saw.
Now that I think of it I will have a couple short cut off section of the CE shafts from the three full length ones I just cut. I will have to try a couple test cuts to see if I can do better with tape or rotating. I think it will be best to have them cut for me at a cost in the future if I can't find a bett blade rather than take a chance messing these shafts up. I will stick to cutting the GT and Beman shaft myself.
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This is the blade you need. You should find them at any hardware store.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Arrow+Building+Tools+Misc+Apple+Cut-Off+Saw++Extra+Blades_c52_s8_p71_i5622_product.html
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I use the same saw you have but use the cut off wheel. I never had a problem
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I rotate mine while cutting. Gets you a cleaner cut, and also cleans up any tilt you have in your blade so that you get a square cut.
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I agree with wingnut and Paul, a carborundum type blade is the best. And like a few others stated, rotating the arrow shaft while cutting helps give a cleaner cut.
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I will have to order one of those and make up a jig so I can rotate. I did read in a few posts from a search that some use the abrasive blade that comes with the saw, but I didn’t get one with my saw, and they didn’t have any when I looked for replacements. I get nice straight cuts with my inserts seating nice and a true spin on my broadheads, but looks like I need to upgrade a little to work with the CE’s.
Thanks for all the info!