Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: LeeBishop on August 31, 2011, 07:01:00 PM
-
So, like I said in my film thread, I've never hunted with a traditional bow before.
I hadn't even shot one before until last weekend. I grew up with compounds.
It's very tricky feeling going from sights to trying to shoot instinctively. It's going to take a long time and a lot of practice but I like it.
I was able to get somewhat of a grouping after about 30-40 minutes but I still have stray shots, I think from sloppy form. But I'm shooting to the left about six inches in a column from where I'm trying to hit at 25 yards.
I'd appreciate any pointers. I'm just trying to wing it and teach myself. My fingers are getting a little ripped up from the pull of the 50lbs string too, but I know I can't use a glove or a tab. I have to be able to feel what I'm doing. I need the tactile sensation.
Any tips for using it to hunt this season for the first time? It's pretty long so I am going to have to make sure to not move much because I think it would kind of look like a big flag waving around.
And I'm kind of worried about banging up the glass.
What sort of quiver could I try to get to mount on there that won't affect the performance of the bow? I don't want to use any screws or tapes.
Here is a cell phone photo from my first day shooting a recurve at 25 yrds. I have a lot of work ahead of me with it. I'm wild with it.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/Blacktalons/Target.jpg)
-
cool, but dont get discouraged, people thats been shooting for years still have stray arrows.
-
Move up to 15 yards or so and get your grouping and then move out,there is no sham in that!!!! That was one of the things that i had a hard time getting in my head when I switched years ago. 25 yards is (if most people are honest) getting too the outer edge of trad hunting range IMO. As for the glove and tab,if you dont need one great but dont let the pain form a bad habit. Last thing I can tell you is 30-40 min is a LONG time to shoot a 50# bow try 6 to 12 arrows take a 10-15 min break and shoot again, quality of practice over quantity work best for me. Gary
-
Like tackhamer said, start way close, like 5 yards, and work on form. Don't shoot marathon sessions, just 20 to 30 shots. And move back in small increments.
-
I just get too into it. I find it hard to stop shooting when I get started.
Well, I only have six arrows with target points on them. So, I was just shooting six at a time and then retrieving them for about 40 minutes on the first day and a little over an hour the following day.
I was worried it would take me a while to get settled working a 50lbs draw bow without the let-off of a compound for extended periods of time, but I was fine. I wasnt getting worn out. It's just my fingers were killing me on the 2nd day.
The only reason I stopped on the days was for the mosquitoes coming out trying to kill me.
I'm going to my dad's farm on Friday and I will work at closer distances of like 15 yards for a while. I need to develop my form for sure.
I was torn between trying to figure out how to aim. That's a big problem for me. I WANT to actually aim by looking down the arrow but I don't have a reference for really judging the drop of the arrow using the tip to target.
And I'm kind of worried about ruining my arrows (since they are like $8 a piece) and I don't want to take many risks with hitting a rock/tree.
I seem to do better when I DON'T aim and I just pull the bow up and shoot.
-
well the grouping looks good, I say if you keep that grouping up and hit in that same spot every time, you may try paper tuning your arrows. I just made the switch myself I did shoot fingers off my old PSE Polaris so I think my form is not bad and switching was not hard. I have not shot mine that much but at 20yrds I feel like I can hit a deer in the vitals well enough.
Happy hunting and shooting,
Kelly
-
I have always shot split-fingered on my compound. So, my posture is pretty much the same with the recurve bow.
I don't believe in releases. It's pretty lame unless you have a disability.
I just have to get adjusted to not having sights and trying to aim either with the arrow or instinctively. I don't know which way I should go.
I have to figure out my problem with hitting to the left of where I'm aiming though. I'm consistently hitting to the left of where I'm trying to hit. So, I'm doing something wrong.
-
Where is that bag target hanging at? If it's reasonable close to Beebe I would be happy to come shoot with you. We might even meet in the middle at a wma for some stump shooting.
You say you don't want to use a tab or glove. I couldn't shoot without one for more than a couple of shots. You might beef up the serving a bit or put some no gloves on the string.
If you are right handed and getting groups like that to the left that indicates a too stiff spine. Since your arrows are already cut you can still add weight to the tips (ie heavier field points) This will move your point of impact to the right. If you are left handed the process is reversed.
Hunt the same way you did with wheels. what I mean by that is wind in the face and concealment. The bow will become 2nd nature to you and you will forget about it being long or sticking out. I just have not found it to be a game spooker at all as long as I do the basic things to not get busted.
Banging up the glass. I hear ya I was in the same boat when I 1st started. Now I think of my hunting bows as tools. I don't go out of my way to bang them up but I don't baby them in the woods either. Maybe check into limb skins if you are worried about dings. They might be worth a shot.
looks like you are doing good. Keep at it and hope to see you at a local wma one day. You'll know me because I'll be the other stick shooter.
-
I was just over at the Ben Pearson range in Conway, AR next to the lake.
I was the only one there with a stick too. There were four other guys all with their compounds.
The spine of the arrow is for 50-55# bows and the Pearson KM Special I'm using is 50XX.
To be honest, I don't know what weight my field points are. I didn't keep the label. I know that my Zwickey Black Diamonds are 125grain though.
-
you might try just shooting one arrow instead of six, makes you think about what your doing more. I have seven targets set up in the yard and will shoot one when I walk out the shop door and from there shoot another one and so on. You dont wear yourself out as fast and the shot is not the same everytime. But i would also take that one arrow and get close and shoot a blind bale or with your eyes closed. feel yourself come to anchor and feel the back tension like trying to pinch a dollar between your shoulder blades and see how it feels letting the string slip from your fingers.
I know coaches who make their students shoot 1000 shots on a blank bale with no target(or sights where a wheel bow or olympic style recurve) is used just to work strictly on form and release.
-
Lee I`ll make the same offer as Pac if you are close to Marion,AR I can possibly show you a few things.We can weigh those points and bareshaft your arrows to get them where they need to be.
-
Marion is like two hours from me. I'm living in Conway right now, but I think I'm going to be moving in about a month. Running out of money, quick.
-
Welcome from Kentucky
-
thanks.
-
Welcome to trad. Its addictive and you'll love it.
It looks like you're off to a good start and while you certainly don't have to use a glove/tab, there are some out there that may help save the fingers allowing you to focus on form. There are some pretty thin ones available. I picked up a Super Glove from 3 Rivers and was surprised how much feel I had on the string. Shot enough with it the first day to get a blister through the glove, that was with a 55# recurve. They soften up with use, too.
As for bow quivers, there are several that use straps around the limbs just above and below the riser. The few I've tried have all had minor effects on how the bow shoots, luckily they seemed to quiet the bow. It shouldn't be an issue if you tune your arrows with the quiver attached. Practice with the quiver on as well.
-
As others have said, move up close 5 or 10 yards and just soot. Don't worry about where the arrows are hitting right now, work on your form and getting the feel of the bow. The more you shoot the tighter your groups will be. Practice good form because this is very important, bad habits are hard to break later on. Hang in there and you will get it, with lots of prctice.
-
We're glad to have you here Lee. :campfire:
A friend of mine and fellow TG'er (ymountainman)has been shooting now for about a year and he too uses bare fingers. His fingers are calloused up pretty good. He took his first deer with trad equipment this past season.
-
Lee, I haven't seen any responses to your grouping 6 inches left. Let me offer this possibility: I'm assuming that you are right handed. When you shot the compound, you closed your left eye to look through the peep sight. If you close your left eye when shooting trad the arrows will go left. Make sure both eyes are open. The next thing that comes to mind is lifting your head at the shot. If you peek to see where the arrow hits, they will tend to go left. Make sure you follow through and keep your head locked until the arrow hits the target.
-
I hope that you've taken to traditional archery... hook, line, and sinker.
Enjoy your journey along with the rest of us.
God bless,Mudd
-
I will practice more on getting my form down this weekend. I didnt have much time the last weekend at the public range.
And about the eye closing/going left thing. I can't tell. I will know this weekend. I know I was confused as to whether to try and close my left eye an aim down the arrow with my right eye or to just pull up and shoot without aiming and just guestimating.
I also haven't a clue about tuning a traditional bow with arrows. What is there to do other than change out the field points or positioning the blades on a broadhead?
-
@ Mudd, like I have said before, I don't think I can really go back to compound.
There is just something about it. All I can really say is that, it's real. It feels real.
What I don't really like is the expense of the wooden arrows. I bought a dozen on sale last year from 3Rivers for like $53 with shipping (I think) and now I see they are like $80 for a dozen.
That's a bit rich for my blood right now. May have to see about finding some cedar dowels and making my own.
-
I bought this bow a year and a half ago when I was doing some background research to make this Ben Pearson documentary film.
But I haven't taken it out to shoot it until recently.
I thought I should try an master traditional archery if I am going to make a film about it. It's quite different and I think it's a shame how the archery market has been turned into mechanical bows.
It's not even archery anymore, really. I understand that now. It's like muzzleloading with an in-line rifle instead of a hawken.
It's a way to avoid the effort the sport really takes.
-
Lee I'm about 30 miles east of Conway. I shoot in my backyard. I have to work tomarrow but if you would like to make a trip here Sunday afternoon I'd be happy to show you all about tuning. For arrows i have wood, carbon & aluminum arrows to try. I also have recurves and long bows of various draw weights.
You are welcome to come shoot here if you would like.
-
I'll be at a friends house in Conway on Sunday. He is known as "Rogers" here on TG. He helped me make a laminated longbow and we will be sealing it on Sunday at his house.
He has a place to shoot at his house and if that would be easier for you just pm me for directions. He lives between rooster road and vilonia on hwy 64.
-
Pac, I'm out of town right now out in the Ouachita Mountains.
I appreciate the offer, that would have been cool to see your friends jigs and gear he makes bows with and meet ya, but I'm about 1 1/2hr away from Conway for the rest of the week.
I'm out here prepping for deer season.
I found that one of my deer feeders was torn apart by a black bear. He left part of the feeder, but somehow he stole the 50 gallon poly pickle barrel that I had made into a feeder. I can't find it anywhere. I guess it may have been drug off down the bluff into the slough. I will have to try and track it down.
I had an expensive electric feeder motor on that thing... Hopefully I will run across him shortly while I have a bow in my hands. He'll be in the freezer and I'll have a beautiful rug.
-
Well, I for sure think that it may be the field points on my target arrows that are a little light.
They tend to be a little scattered when I shoot them. It's hard to keep them grouped up.
But when I use the broadheads they fly straighter and group pretty well.
These groups are at 20 yards. It's my 3rd day trying to use a recurve bow. I think I'm getting the hang of it. They are now mostly centered and I'm not shooting off to the left anymore. Working on the form.
Open to advice and help.
@ Pac, I think I need to figure out this whole target point weight thing. I was thinking they were both like 125 grains, but the field points may be lighter. I dont' have to scales to weight them.
I built myself a target frame out of scrap lumber at the barn. It's working, but my target is falling apart from UV sun damage. Will have ot get a new bag to put around it after this season.
With broaheads
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/Blacktalons/Target1broadhead.jpg)
With Broadheads (closer)
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/Blacktalons/Target2broadhead.jpg)
This is with field points. They are looser, but this is about as close as I could group them. They don't fly as consistently as the broadheads.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/Blacktalons/Target3FieldPoint.jpg)
I think it will be good enough to stick my bear at 20 yards. I just have to try and keep within that distances with my tree stand.
-
Well, I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is with my accuracy.
I went out to shoot some more today and I can see the arrows wiggling when they release. By wiggling, I mean the arrow kicks out a bit to one side and then straightens up. It does a fishtail .
I'm sure I need to cut my arrows down an inch or an inch and a half to better suit my draw length. The extra length is making the arrows fly wrong.
I'd be a lot more accurate if the arrows flew correctly :p