Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: TomBow on August 31, 2011, 04:56:00 PM
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I need to confirm whether or not I am measuring nock point height correctly. Recently have converted to 3-under and have looked into raising the nock, as suggested. I keep hearing "my nock point is x/x" above center". Is that the same as measuring from shelf level,which is what I have always used? I have a T-square to measure nock height and brace height, just want to make sure I'm using it correctly. Thanks in advance.
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Yes. An actual bow square makes simple and accurate work of this job plus it's great to check brace and tiller height.
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Yes. I measure from the shelf height using a bow square. I use 2 nock points..the bottom of the TOP nock point is at 1/2" above shelf level. The top of the BOTTOM nock point is about 1/4" above shelf level. I leave a little wiggle room so the nock points don't pinch the arrow nock.
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How would you read this?
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Since the measurement marks on the bow square are on the right, I assume the nock on the right side of the photo is the top nock. The bottom nock is below the shelf level, and the top nock is at 1/8” above the shelf level. This configuration would not work for any bow I’ve ever shot!
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I agree with Dave
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Sorry. No it’s the other way around. The bottom nock is to the right. The top is to the left. Not sure why the picture rotated. The bottom of the top nock is quite high at I’m guessing 6/8” or 3/4” high.
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That's my take on it. Bottom nockset is at 1/2" and top is 3/4"
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Yes. This a bit on the high side? That said, I just noticed a good bit of wear on the rest since the last time I’ve shot. First time pulling that bow out this year. Since last summer. Just too busy. It’s sickening. The arrows were flying good a year ago. But I did notice a little wobble up and down in one slow mo vid. I’ll probably bareshaft one of these arrows again come the summer. I would like to adjust brace height too. It’s definently a little thunk to it. Not sure if it’s normal. The arrows are just under 10gpp. Whereas the 62” recurve I have the arrows are 11.6 gpp with 6 lbs lower draw weight and a B55 string vs whatever came on the longbow. It’s a Martin. D97? Or fast flight? I wouldn’t know.
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If you haven't shot for a while or shot that bow for a while, I would shoot it for some time before changing anything. Sometimes it's just you that needs to settle in.
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Yes you’re probably right. I just noticed a bit more wear on the rest. But I’ll leave it all until I get a chance to shoot more.
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Looks like mine :biglaugh: Yep bottom of top nocking point 5/8 to 3/4. I’ve tried several times over the years to move it down after reading in forums how “wrong” that is, to have such an high nocking pt. Always end up moving it back up. My bow square now has permanent lines scribed into it where the top nock will be.
No way I could shoot 1/4 or 3/8 above shelf with top nock like some folks say. My feathers would wear out in about 5 min :goldtooth:
R
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I’ve heard 5/8” a lot. Mines touch higher than that just wonder what people’s thoughts were. That said, I haven’t shot in a while and the few shots I took the other day were 20 yards and under and it’s fast enough I’d really need put a slo mo to watch the flight better. These are gt trads 400’s I’m using. 522grs. Around 15 FOC. 55at28 Savannah. I’m 26.5” draw when I measure from back of bow to nock groove. Not sure how ppl get such a long draw. I’m 5’9”. 195lbs. I feel fully open and extended.
I’m using gt trad classic xts on the recurve. 62” 49at28. 535 grains. Approx 18.9 FOC. But holding the arrows I really feel the difference in the FOC.
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All my widows shoot a carbon arrow best when the bottom of the nock is about 6/8's. I'm probably wrong but measurements of nocking points should be taken from the bottom of the actual nock... and not from the bottom of the top brass set. Given the OP mentioned he left a small amount of gap between the nocks for wiggle room; I would say the picture illustrates a nock measuring height of a little less than 5/8's. (using the bottom of the nock)
That would be too low for my carbon arrows and just about right for my aluminums with the head weights I shoot on each. I shoot three under.
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Ok. So you mean the difference between the arrow shelf and the bottom of the arrow nock while on the string. Which, at a guess in my picture would be about 5/8s from the shelf.
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More often than not, 5/8” is where I end up-to the bottom of the top nock, seldom less.
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Looking at a video I took shooting those arrows, there was a slight up and down wobble. Wondering if not kicking off the shelf. When I get the chance I may shoot a while to see how they fly. And if wobbling after a while I’ll play with nock height. I like slow mo videos. They help a lot
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I think your on the right track. If you shoot three under I think your a bit low on the picture shown. Try putting the bottom of the nock about 1/8' above the top line on the square if your shooting carbon with a lot of FOC.
Of course, people, bows, and arrows are different for everyone. That's just what works for me. I've always thought it is higher than it should be; but the single bareshaft method always shows that spot tunes the arrow to my bows the best.
Also against all reasonable common thought and universal acceptance; I find the arrow 'bumps' if I leave that small gap between the bottom of the arrow nock and the top of bottom nocking point. I keep them snug to the arrow nock (no wiggle room) but use a tied knot to provide a little give if that makes any sense.
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About the only thing we agree on is the the arrow nock is higher than the shelf, but we don't seem to measure it in the same way. Some folks nock under the nock point, others above it. So a statement of nock point height isn't a very helpful measurement/descriptor unless we know where the arrow is nocked in relation to the nock point, above it or below it. It remains confusing if two nock points are used because we then don't know which one is being referenced when nock height is stated, the top nock point or the lower nock point.
Probably the best way to go about it is to state how high above the shelf the lower end/bottom of the arrow nock should be when on the string, as some have suggested above. With that measurement, folks can affix the nockpoint(s) on the string appropriately.
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About the only thing we agree on is the the arrow nock is higher than the shelf, but we don't seem to measure it in the same way. Some folks nock under the nock point, others above it. So a statement of nock point height isn't a very helpful measurement/descriptor unless we know where the arrow is nocked in relation to the nock point, above it or below it. It remains confusing if two nock points are used because we then don't know which one is being referenced when nock height is stated, the top nock point or the lower nock point.
Probably the best way to go about it is to state how high above the shelf the lower end/bottom of the arrow nock should be when on the string, as some have suggested above. With that measurement, folks can affix the nockpoint(s) on the string appropriately.
Picking above nock would be a bad idea. When we draw back arrow would be pushed higher
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There’s no mystery to measuring but the measurement doesn’t really matter. You gotta tune to whatever bow likes and slo mo video is the best way to see that but there’s not an exact spot. I personally shoot favoring the higher end where the bow tunes. The gap is shorter that way. I don’t shoot gap but split vision and notice arrow sorta in my vision. Less gap helps. It should be mentioned you can’t chase tune unless you are tuned in a sense. Pluck the string up, out, especially if you do it like most guys I see and are somewhat inconsistent you’ll never get an accurate reading. Worry bout you, than the bow
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BG. Howard Hill nocked above the nock point. Probably the fastest way to get an arrow nocked and shot. A lot of folks who shoot ASLs emulate the Hill style of shooting and nock above the nock point, using a split finger release.
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I shoot split finger and nock above the nocking point and the bottom of my nock or top of nocking point is at 5/8". Arrows fly great and when paper testing shoot clean holes from six feet.
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Thanks Terry. I was not aware that Larry was out of the business ! Since I am not active in the archery business I have not kept up. I. would not even known about the Tuffhead if I had not read about it here.
Abowyer made a good broadhead when Larry owned it I assume that part has not changed!
Thanks for keeping Tradgang going to keep us old guys informed.
It is a great venue!
Joe Furlong
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BG. Howard Hill nocked above the nock point. Probably the fastest way to get an arrow nocked and shot. A lot of folks who shoot ASLs emulate the Hill style of shooting and nock above the nock point, using a split finger release.
Just because one guy made it work doesn’t mean it’s the best or easiest w all due respect to Howard Hill. Listen I reach all sorts of archery. One guy was a multi state champ. He has some flaws he perfected through hours and hours of practice. Anything done absolutely consistently can lead to the same results. He doesn’t teach that way. If someone wants to do things the hardest way that’s fine. Just for the rest be advised it’s making something already hard, harder
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BG said, "Picking above nock would be a bad idea. When we draw back arrow would be pushed higher."
No reason for the arrow to be pushed higher unless one is shooting three under. Folks who nock above use split finger. For those who use it, pulling an arrow out of a back quiver and nocking above the nock is the easiest and fastest way to nock the arrow. All I'm suggesting is that some folks, quite a few actually, do nock above the nock point. I suspect they find some advantage in it or they wouldn't do it. There are lots of different styles of shooting. What's best for one may not be best for another.