Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Pipefish on November 05, 2011, 11:27:00 PM
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1. I've read many people in the forum write about sanding down tight nocks... How tight should the arrow be on the string (is there a practical test?). At present I cannot shake off my arrows with forceful jerks of the bow.
2. Is nock orientation merely preference? My odd-colored fletching points down on my recurve - the man in the store originally said it should be facing away from the bow (this would require changing the nock orientation (but may not be possible on my Beman carbons?)
3. My string came with a rubber "tab" built onto it. Does this kind of tab stand up there with handheld ones or gloves?
Cheers
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I can answer 1 & try number 2
1. To test tightness hold your bow horizontally put the nock on the string then with a tap or two the arrow should fall off.
You can sand it to fit your serving but after a while your serving could wear enough that the arrow falls off the stringand cause a dry fire.
I would get a drill bit about the size of of the string with the serving. Get a pot of boiling water and dip the nock only deep enough to to get the prongs hot for 20 seconds, then take it out and press it on the bit. then try fitting it back on the string again. Don't the carbon arrow to hot though.
2.The man at the store is correct in that most people cock (or odd feather) stick out away from the bow.
If you are using carbons you should be able to just turn your nocks they shouldn't be glued in they just snap in.
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I agree the arrow should be able to be tapped off the bowstring. If you are shooting feathers, most people shoot cock feather out but it doesn't really matter.
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Thanks Shed and James. I'm assuming the point of having the arrow fitted so loosely is that it comes off the string more consistently? Or faster?
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It helps so the arrow clears the string cleanly as a nock that is to tight can make it look like a bad release.
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1....why not just re serve to get the right fit? if its just slightly tight and a new serving it will usually wear in some. Ie if you start filing/sanding/whatever new nocks on a new serving, they'll likely end up too loose down the road rather quick depending on how much you shoot.
Serving is easier and more consistent than trying to tweak a nock either sanding boiling or any other method. even if you cant make a string, serving is a cake walk and something that is a good skill to have. I sat in a bear stand this spring trying to fix a serving that had gotten nicked and started to come unwound. If you cant serve, that could have been the end of a hunt ;) .
2. if its wood, look at the grain to make sure its orientated right. if its aluminum/carbon it doesnt matter as much as long as you dont have a fletch contact problem. some shoot cock feather in. I dont, I prefer cock feather out my lower hen feather rides in a grove between the side plate and the shelf material. Keeps wear down...atleast thats what I tell myself. ;) Down would lead to bounce problems I would think. You could fix it somewhat with a high nocking point if needed....tuning will tell you what to do here.
3. I assume you mean the rubber kids looking thing. I know a guy who uses it and likes it, but I dont know how long they last. He also likes to shoot bare fingered. I am a tab guy who recently went back to glove shooting. Best thing you can do is give it a go and see what you think of it.
Lastly improper nock fit will affect arrow flight. Giving you inconsistent flight if its loose and a possible dry fire (been there done that). It leads to problems like knock pinching, trying to hold the arrow on the string..... Too tight will give you a over stiff 'reading' when you are tuning (its a dynamic spine game, kind of like changing point weight, the arrow stays on the string longer and in doing so you'll also loose some performance). They can also break nocks in the cold (been there too LOL). Try hunting hares at -40 with super stiff snap on nocks...yay! If I error I prefer to error a little snug than a little loose. But not tight. Again the serving will usually wear in or compress...so a skosh snug (again not tight) will usually be perfect when that serving is worn in. If it gets a bit too loose you can always cross hatch with dental floss and tie off creating a second lower nock with the df. the cross hatching amount will depend on how loose the nock is on the string.
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Thanks AKDan,
2.
The arrows are carbon, but there is definitely contact with the fletching at the riser. The wood is being stained blue on the side-wall and orange on the shelf from the rubber feathers. My nock is pretty high already though: I have a rubber flipper about a half-inch up form the riser.
1.
I see what you are saying about the serving: After a at least a hundred more shots between last night and today, the nocks did not grip on as tight!
3.
Yes the rubber thing does look like it was made for a child... for the moment, if there is no advantage to using a different system, I will leave it though.
cheers!
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If you are shooting rubber vanes the guy at the shop has you shooting the wrong set up,You should be shooting with feathers not vanes. I would deffinetly get those changed.Sounds like a compound dealer.
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Originally posted by BOWMARKS:
If you are shooting rubber vanes the guy at the shop has you shooting the wrong set up,You should be shooting with feathers not vanes. I would deffinetly get those changed.Sounds like a compound dealer.
X2 You need to use real feathers. that could be your most of the problem. Because the feathers give and the rubber vains wont.
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Originally posted by Pipefish:
1. I've read many people in the forum write about sanding down tight nocks... How tight should the arrow be on the string (is there a practical test?). At present I cannot shake off my arrows with forceful jerks of the bow.
2. Is nock orientation merely preference? My odd-colored fletching points down on my recurve - the man in the store originally said it should be facing away from the bow (this would require changing the nock orientation (but may not be possible on my Beman carbons?)
3. My string came with a rubber "tab" built onto it. Does this kind of tab stand up there with handheld ones or gloves?
Cheers
welcome to trad gang!
sir, from the likes of your questions and posts, you need some serious one-on-one trad archery/bowhunting gear help, at the least. perhaps there's a local archery club or store that has someone who's quite trad savvy to mentor you? if not, we'll try to help you get on course. trad archery/bowhunting is a free-form aiming sport, and there are some things to understand about the tackle, before beginning working on form ... and we've all been there at one time or another. :wavey:
hopefully the first link in my sig line will help, for starters.
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Pipefish not sure where you are in Maine. I spend time during the summer up on Mount Desert Island.
There is a very good Traditional bow shop in Old Town.
Old Town Archery
300 Main St ,
Old Town, ME 04468
(207) 827-9489
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Daniel where in Maine are you. There are quite a few stick shooters all over the state and I am sure one must be some where close to you.
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Thanks for the warm welcome...
Bowmarks, you are right about me getting geared up at a compound shop for the most part.
Shed, cheers again for the advice
Rob, I'm checking that link right after I post this :)
Metsastaja and Whittler: I'm in Portland, but have gone "big box" you could say and hit up LL Bean to get started... was lured by a good deal. If you know of any places near me, would love to hear about it!
Thanks!
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Update on the "built-in-tab" referred to as "the rubber kids looking thing" above that is on the string already.
It seems OK for target shooting - the rubber actually spins around the string allowing bare fingers to "roll" off the string at anchor.
BUT it squeaks sporadically - so probably not wise for hunting :)
~Dan
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Sorry, thats the only place I've ever seen one used... :(
A friend mentioned using one, but went back to bare fingering the string instead.
sorry didnt mean to sound a overly harsh with the kids comment....my apologies.