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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Shedrock on November 28, 2012, 07:23:00 PM
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I checked the How to section. "The Ferret" did a thread on mounting stone points, but all the pictures are gone.
Sounds like we will be able to start hunting with stone points here in Wyo next year. I would love to take an antelope or deer with one, but I really want to learn how to mount them on an arrow the right way.
Anyone on here willing to share some knowledge with some good pictures? Thanks.
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I use the long setting type epoxy and fake sinew. check out the Primitive Archer web site and the experts will let you know OR go to youtube and ask the question.
I have shot one deer with one of my points and the point broke at the arrow but the sinew/epoxy kept the base of the point on the arrow.
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Shedrock, I do the same as Jon suggests. First I caliper the stone head to verify the thickness. Then I'll use a bandsaw or hand saw to cut a notch in the shaft. Go slow so you can center the point by trying it in the notch repeatedly. When you have a great fit then file and sand the end of the shaft to get a good taper on the end. Epoxy, insert head, wrap with sinew, recheck for centered and let it set up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoNmUJWNCMw
If you want to do it the primitive way this is a video of a guy I know who really knows his stuff!
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I do the same as those mentioned above except that I use hide glue to hold my points in.
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My brother does the same thing as Jon. He shot a doe, and the arrow broke at notch on the opposite shoulder blade and the arrow backed out, but the head stayed in attached to a length of artifitial sinew. The shaft flopped on the deer side like a flag as it ran. He also killed a BC class whitetail. The arrow broke on rock after passing through deer. He took a breeding bull bison with a stone head mounted the same way. Mike
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff289/MittenM/DSCN0065_0005.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff289/MittenM/DSCN0021_0049-1.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff289/MittenM/hero/dscn0625_000markstonedoe1.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff289/MittenM/hero/dscn0623_0002doemark.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff289/MittenM/hero/markbuf1.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff289/MittenM/hero/stonehead.jpg)
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Was it, or is it the purpose of this ancient set up to break in the animal for cutting inside or bloodtrail or it's just different each time?
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Very nice Herdbull.Great pics,trophies.Thanks for sharing.mmmm,buffalo meat!
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I don't think there was any intent in ancient times to break. I just think that twisting and side forces on impact will break the weakest part, and that would be the notched arrow shaft if a quality head is used. Tapper the lead edge of the arrow as much as posible where it meets the stone. Mike
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There is no intent or desire to have the point break. It happens because we are using stone that is knapped thin at the base so it can be mounted to the arrow. Usually the damage to the animal is done prior to the point breaking.
If made right these points are as good as any other hunting head out there.
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Thanks for the info. very interesting :thumbsup:
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Thanks for the info guys. Thanks for the pics Mike.
Any other pics and info would be great. I really don't want to learn this by trial and error if you know what I mean.
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Good stuff gents, thanks for the sharing of knowledge.... :campfire:
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Originally posted by snag:
Shedrock, I do the same as Jon suggests. First I caliper the stone head to verify the thickness. Then I'll use a bandsaw or hand saw to cut a notch in the shaft. Go slow so you can center the point by trying it in the notch repeatedly. When you have a great fit then file and sand the end of the shaft to get a good taper on the end. Epoxy, insert head, wrap with sinew, recheck for centered and let it set up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoNmUJWNCMw
If you want to do it the primitive way this is a video of a guy I know who really knows his stuff!
Awesome video. Thanks!
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I cut a single bandsaw cut in the shaft and use a thin blade knife and sand paper to open it to fit the point. I use pitch glue. I heat and drip some pitch glue into the slot then heat the point slightly and add pitch glue to it then place the stone point into the shaft and line it up while the pitch glue is still soft. Then I spin test the arrow on my finger tip. If it spins true I do a sinew wrap to secure the point. When the sinew dries(usually the next day)I spin test again. If there is any wobble I reheat the point just enough to soften the pitch glue, make the adjustment and spin test again. If all is well I seal the hafting with pitch varnish and when that dries I test shoot the arrow.
Here are two sourwood shoot arrows and a hill cane arrow with stone points hafted...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/forPA009-2.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/forPA008-2.jpg)
Tese are one hill cane and 3 sourwood shoot arrows hafted with stone points...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/09huntingarrows003.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/09huntingarrows001.jpg)
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I make a few stone points but haven't mounted any yet. I can't understand using epoxy on a primitive arrow, I'd go with real sinew and pitch.
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Pitch and sinew. If you can't get pitch use low temp hot melt glue. After making sure aliginment is good the sinew can be overcoated with homemade varnish or titebond 3.
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Thanks all.
Looking forward to next August. I hope an antelope will go down with a stone point.
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Best of luck with your goal :archer2:
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Let's see them after you get them hafted. Make sure to bevel the leading edge of the shaft.