Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Justin Falon on January 19, 2013, 07:10:00 PM
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anyone who uses the paper wheels for sharpenging two blade heads ever make a jig to hold the head at the 25 degree angle???????
If so, can you share pics? THanks.
justin
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I am interested in this one as well, hope someone chimes in. I have tossed the idea around in my head many times trying to think of a design that would allow you to keep a constant angle while moving the broadhead in and out - back and forth across the wheel. I know there are those that can get really good at it doing it free-hand, but I'm not one of them.
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Justin,
I remember this thread from way back... found it... not sure it would work with a sharpening wheel... but always thought it was pretty slick!
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=060487
Jonathan
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I recognize the jig. I have a table saw that I could convert into a bench for using the jig. Endless possibilities.
Keep the ideas coming boyz.
justin
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Be careful with the paper wheels. Caught the tip of a Magnus on one once and it threw it across the room arrow and all. :eek:
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A perfect angle is not as critical with the paper wheels, I have not used the newer Grizzlies, but I set the initial bevel with a file or disk sander on the old ones.
I set up my paper wheels to spin away from me at the top. Mark the wheel with a sharpie and a protracter or speed square to get a location for the angle. If the wheel was a clock, 25degrees would be about 11:00 o'clock. I hold knives and broadheads horizontal with the wheel spinning away from me. Safer and easier to hold a consistent angle. Put a big mark on top of the motor that coincides with 10:15 (25 degrees). Your grit wheel should be about 90% wax.
Be careful is right, but I have never had an issue. Only sharpen heads mounted on a shaft.
Alaska Bowhunting Supply had a tutorial last time I checked.
Best $50 I ever spent.
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Where do you guys get your paper wheels from? Do you mount them on a regular grinder? What grit do you use?
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Abowyer, and Alaska Bowhunting Supply Carry them.
8 inch wheels work on a 6inch or larger grinder.
The coarse is a diamond grit, the fine is a rouge polishing wheel. They come that way.
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You can get them at woodworking stores. I got mine at Woodcraft.
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Thanks, I need to pick a set up.
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This morning I turned the wheels away from me so that they were spinning away. Like an idiot, I reached around the front of it, without fully thinking that through, to shut it off and the wheel nicked me in the thumb. Put a nice long and deep gash in me.
I sharpened 5 knives using the top of the wheel rather than the front. Much much easier to imagine the angle using the top rather than the front. Also easier for me to keep the angle consistent.
Next step is a broadhead. I have new stock grizzly 200 grain heads. Will continue to practice one junk knives until I have it down pat and then onto broadheads mounted on the shaft.
THe edge these paper wheels puts on is pretty amazing. In seconds!
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Originally posted by Justin Falon:
THe edge these paper wheels puts on is pretty amazing. In seconds!
Yep,you can say that again! First time I saw the wheels used was by Melvin Dunn at a sportsshow in the mid '90's.When you stopped at Melvin's booth he'd sharpen your knife in a couple seconds on a wheel and I mean scary sharp. I've been sold on them since.
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Justin, check out your grinder (if you have the wheels on a grinder)On most of them you can dismount the base (with the switch)and turn it 180 deg and re mount. Keeps what happened to you from happening to you .
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I will check that out. WOuld cetainly be a nice feature. It is a Delta grinder.
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I can't imagine needing a jig. It's really quick and simple. I did take an Abowyer head, held it on top with the edge on the wheel( the grinder was off) . I the. Rotated the wheel until the head was vertical and marked the spot on the grinder. Now I just line up the edge with the line, hold the head vertical and make usually one pass each to sharpen. Very very easy.
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guess I am not understanding the part about marking the grinder means.
justin
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Originally posted by Justin Falon:
guess I am not understanding the part about marking the grinder means.
justin
I'm with Justin, got any pics of how you mark the grinder??
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ive been using one for 3 years and i freehand it..i get my muzzy phantoms razor sharp fast...
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Originally posted by Justin Falon:
guess I am not understanding the part about marking the grinder means.
justin
X3!
Bisch
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I don't do the photo thing well. But basically I set the broadhead , an Abowyer in this case, on top of an in spinning paper wheel. Then tilt the broadhead until the cutting edge is touching the wheel. ( should be about a 25 degree tilt)
Remember you are still on top of the wheel.
Now slowly rotate the wheel while holding the angle until the broadhead is vertical . Make a sharpie mark on the grinder housing to use as a visual reference.
That way you know where on the wheel to place a vertical broadhead and achieve a 25 degree bevel and being vertical takes out the guesswork .... Ok I'll send someone pics to post.
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Sorry auto correct . "Set the head on a non spinning wheel "to make the mark
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I am sllllloooooooowwwwwwwlllllllllyyyyyyyyyy getting the visual in my mind.
Place the bevel edge on the top of the wheel while it is not spinning. Mentall mark what that looks like?
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ok. got the wheels turned around on the grinder successfully. That makes a world of difference. Put my knife blade ON TOP of the wheel at about 22 degree or so. Already I can make a really shiny clean bevel. Put the "flat" side on the slotted wheel and can really shave hair. Next up is broadhead no. 1.
The process of sharpening from "kinda sharp" to "really sharp" took about 15 seconds.
justin
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I’m a professional sharpener, and I use a paper wheel for all knives and to hone broadheads. Before ABS started marketing the paper wheel, Ed S. asked me how it worked for me. I told him I buy them from Woodcraft Supply and use their slow speed grinder(1700 RPM),configured to turn away from me. I never use the gritted wheel, replacing that with a buffing wheel. Instead I use a 1 x 30” belt sander configured to turn away from me(ALWAYS!!). The sander uses 800 grit belts. For broadheads, I grind with a Tormek(Swedish machine, too expensive for most home shops), and hone with the paper wheels.
For safety’s sake, always configure your machines to turn away from you. Even at that, if you screw a broadhead into a shaft and use too much pressure on the paper wheel, it can loosen, turn, and be thrown into the wall behind(trust me on that!) Don’t worry about reconfiguring the grinder, just turn it around and remember that the switch is on the back!
A jig is really not necessary if your wheel is turning away from you. Apply plenty of sharpening compound. Hold the broadhead perfectly horizontal(it BETTER be mounted on a length of shaft!). Top dead center on your wheel is a zero degree bevel. Right smack at your bellybutton is 90 degrees. 45 degrees is halfway in between. 22.5 degrees is half-way from there to the top. Take a flexible ruler and lay out the degrees on the top of the motor where it is in your vision when you sharpen.
Then, just practice. You can make a glass smooth edge with a paper wheel on most any un-serrated blade, once you get the feel of it. This isn’t something you take to the field in your pack, but it’s sure a good way to start off!
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Paper wheels rock! Just like folks have offered, shaving sharp in seconds.
I would not worry about the angle so much. It is simpler than may think.
I also don't see the stress of having the wheel spin towards you as long as you grind the edge down. Every grinder I have ever used - to grind anything - spins that way. I would worry more about being unfamiliar with the tool by having is set up "backwards". I also sharpen BHs on the shaft.
Centaur Archery also sells these sharpeners and Jim has a nice video on his web page on how to use it. That's worth the trip alone.
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I got mione from Jantz supply. Work really well.
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You can get the paper wheel system from Grizzly woodworking equipment Co. much cheaper than most places. Woodcraft stores have them reasonable also.
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My old grizzlys were way off on the grind angle and that may be why it didn't work that well. Have not tried it on a new grizzly YET.
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All my grinders have the wheels housed most of the way around. The only way to do polish with them would be with a top to bottom rotation as you stand in front of the grinder. The tool shelf could be adjusted to help create the correct angle.
Are the grinders you guys are grinding up with open wheel without housings or tool shelfs?
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yep, took all the guards and tool shelfs off.
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Even I managed to put a truly scary sharp edge on my turkey heads a few minutes ago. Wow. Look out!!!
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Do you have to use the wax that comes with the wheels? I'm about out, and the dealers want $10.00 for a small cup of it. Could paraffin be used, although it seems to be harder than the original?
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To be totally honest it is a lot easier to maintain a consistent angle when sharpening on paper wheels than it is on a stone freehand (admittedly easy for me to do but I understand a lot of people cannot do this) I love using a paper wheel to get that final SCARY :eek: sharp edge on all my hunting and skinning knives. I just wish there was a way to sharpen 3 blade broadheads on them :bigsmyl: (THEN they would be the PERFECT tool)!
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For people with a 1" belt sander I have a friend that makes a leather belt for these along with a metal jig that sets on the bar that the belt runs behind in front. It is great for us challenged people!
I'll try to dig it out of the garage and post a picture of it. I also know a local guy that makes and sells the paper wheels.
Both guys sell locally and Michael who makes the leather belts for belt sanders mostly sells through large wood working company's for sharpening tools used on lathes.
I have used both on my knives but I hunt with a 3 blade broad head and have never figured out a way to utilize these 2 different tools.
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I have the paper wheels from Grizzly Tools but I mainly just use the buffing one. I use a file to get a burr edge and then just buff it off. You can check where you're grinding on the edge of the broadhead after a couple of passes and correct the angle if necessary just by eyeball. After you do a few the angle is pretty ease to maintain.