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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Kohout on February 02, 2013, 12:55:00 PM
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Hello guys,
I going to go for a sheep hunting in the Yukon this summer (August).
I have no experience with a sheep hunting, so I would like to know any advices from you guys, which can to help me. I going to go myself.
Thank you
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Lucky you .....always been a dream hunt of mine...I don't think I could do it physically now. Hope you do it and have a great time!
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Get the best binoculars you can afford, put them on a tripod and spend your time sitting behind them.
Make a plan for your stalk and memorize landmarks. Write them down in a little notebook if you have to.
If you can talk a friend into it, a partner to direct you on the stalk can increase your odds immensely.
What part of the Yukon? I rifle hunted sheep there in the far north Ogilvies.
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The only thing I could offer is how to dream about it.
Good for your and good luck!
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Thank you Ron for your support. Steve, I wanna go for sheep hunting in the south. Zone 7 or 9-03. The zone 9-03 is restricted to bowhunting only, but I have to obtain a permit through the lottery system on this zone.
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Read Sheep Hunting in Alaska by Tony Russ.
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Hey Martin, I'm not invited ;) I will apply for RedRidge as well.
Cheers
David
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Hey David. You will! That is great, maybe we will can go for the sheep hunting together!
Take care
Martin
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X2 on the Tony Russ book. He has another one, I think it's called Sheep Stalking, it's good as well.
I assume you are going after Dall sheep ? Their vision is phenomenal, you need to stay out of sight a long ways off, avoid being sky-lined. After you find some rams,consider spending a day patterning them instead of going right after them. Also, they have this odd thing where after they are spooked and are running away, when they get out of your sight they speed way up, it can throw you off when you're after them.
Definitely one of the coolest critters to hunt. Hope it goes well.
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Have had the opportunity to hunt sheep many time on Gray Ridge.
Always hunted the Annie lake end of the ridge, A few times on the Bennett lake side. found the best way to get to where a person need to hunt, was crossing at the narrow Inlet side of swamp draining into Anne Lake. From there followed a low pass going up the mountain. Valley was very good for camping, with lots of good drinking water
Climbed to high ridges everyday, would spend most of the day glassing. Better to glass down on the Rams when ever possible. If your seeing many Ewes and lambs, move to a new area, Don't ever remember seeing the Rams and Ewes together in summer months, The rams for the most part where always near the highest points on mountain, The warm the weather, the higher the Rams appeared to go. If Rams have been chased before you, look for the Rams 100 meters below or a 100 meters above tree-line, Mostly in draws the run up or down the mountain, Rams like hiding in narrow canyons. On a map of Gray ridge, is a formation called White rock, Have found Rams hiding there many times.
When it comes Time to stock Rams picking your time and location to make your stock. Ram are in groups of 2 to 15 or even 20. Stocking Rams in a open meadow is almost impossible with a longbow. Had my best stocks when Rams went into large rocks and cliffs. Making noise or rolling rocks is not a problem when stocking Rams Try to stock above where Rams have gone into boulders or cliffs. Always move slow and low, and glass steady as you make your stock. Rams can sometimes spot you as you aproach, Don't panick, just frezze and dont move, lay flat for 10 to 30 mintues they will go back to feeding. If the lead Rams are not spooked, Frezzing has saved my A$$ a few times.
Ram will have beds that they dig and use daily, Take your time to learn their daily movements, Rams are very much creatures of habit, Rams are normaly in the same place same time, year after year, I cant stress enough !! take your time. Once you spook Rams, Rams can be very hard to find back !!
Saw some of my bigest Rams in low creek drainages. near or at treeline. Ram was normally alone, Believe the Ram was past it's prime and chased from the Flock, Seen this two times on Gray ridge and many times while guiding.
People sometimes wear the white painters suits, its worked for some, never has for me, Gray Ridge Is very hard on foot wear, get the best you can afford. Camo from head to toe and a face mask are a must, Tones of gray work very well.
Never skyline no mater how tired you feel. Allways move Like the rams are over the next hill, Spend 80% of your time glassing, 10% of your time moving, Hopefully 10% stocking, Spend time looking where you think the Rams should be, But dont forget to glass where you think they never would be.
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Practice a lot of steep downhill shots. Practice longer yardage like the 30 - 40 yards range. Sheep are "soft". You don't need a really heavy arrow. Don't sacrifice distance for heavy arrow weight. Be in shape.
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Can't sleep
MY first Dall Sheep Ram was so ugly!
My first bow killed Ram On Grey Ridge was killed at 7 feet. Had been laying in the sun baking for 3 days watching 9 Rams. All 9 Rams just stayed in a big green bowl, Rams would move to there bedding area 11 am sleep for a few hours, then feed again into late afternoon, Ram did not change from thier routine or venture from the bowl for 3 days. Was giving all members of the flock names between my naps. There was a Bossy, Pretty, Fatty, skinny, Wow, Bromie and Ugly
Ugly Intersted me, He had one horn that looked like a big club, His secound horn grew around and into his nose, he was just ugly!!
On the 3rd day, Ram bedded down in there normal places, After a few hours, all Rams but Ugly got up and start grazing away from a sleeping Ugly. This went on for allmost a hour, The main group of Rams had feed out of Ugly sight, I could see a trail that ran between Ugly and the main group of feeding Rams. The trail went by some large scattered boulders. Thought if I could get to the trail, when Ugly wokeup, Ugly would follow the trail looking for his buddys, The main group of Rams would not see my aproach to the trail, So moving like a snake and running when possible I moved to a large boulder, 7 feet from the trail, Did not have to wait very long. Soon heard Ugly coming up the trail, He moved past me, giving me a shot at 7 feet, Would like to say the shot was perfect, but was a bit far back,
Was my first Dall sheep bow kill. The horns are at the game branch office in Whitehorse Yukon , but you have been warned, his name was Ugly
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Sounds like a great hunt.......but no pics?!!
That aint right. :~)
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Thanks guys for help! It is a lot a great informations for me.
I use a heavy arrows, I will buy a lighter arrows and a lighter broadheads also.
Paul, an informations from you is very interesting for me. You had the opportunity to hunt sheep many time on Gray Ridge. If you can gave me a more informations of Gray Ridge, I will very grateful.
Martin
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Marv Clyncke in Colorado has a video on hunting Alaska I think 3rivers carries it.
Also, I would contact him directly, that man KNOWS his sheep and goat hunting and could probably get you set up with the knowledge of the methods he uses to glass and how to go about your stalks to get in range for a shot.
I think he is a member here, just use the directory at the top to look for his contact info.
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Marv Clynke and Scott George aka (Hornhunter) would be to guys that I would talk to about sheep hunting and equipment you will need.
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Sadly no pictures that I can find, x wife has or burned,
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Originally posted by Steve O:
Get the best binoculars you can afford, put them on a tripod and spend your time sitting behind them.
Top quality 10 power binoculars are an absolute must, and a good spotting scope is almost as important. Best would be Swarovski, Leica, Kowa, Zeiss or comparable spotting scopes with HD optics and 65mm objective lenses for quality and lighter weight than the 85mm versions. The least expensive acceptable spotting scope would probably be the Leupold 12-40x60 Gold Ring HD scope. As others here have written, most of your time will be spent glassing. That helps save energy and time and keeps you from spooking the animals as much. A good, lightweight tripod is required, and it must have a quick detachable feature, because you don't want to carry two tripods -- one for the spotting scope and another for the binoculars. I like the Outdoorsman lightweight tripod that is expensive but will do what you need. Get the panning head rather than the trigger style head.
Allan
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I would also give an endorsement for the Tony Russ (Ross??) books. I read one and found it to be very practical.
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books found at tonyruss.com
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Thank you guys! I have a one more question. I have a good clothing and a pack(Sitka, Kuiu), I have a good boots (han wag) , but what else I will need? What a gear is necessarily for a sheep hunt? I know, the best of binoculars is recommended, but I would not want to spend two thousands and more for a binocular.
Thanks
Martin
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Very light pack stove, Water treatment, Mole skin, Lots of socks, Few changes of long underwear,headlamp maybe. { dont get very dark in summer ) Bear spray, Duck tape, ( good for fixting what ever and allso okay fire starter.[ Wrap the duck tape around your drink water bottles} Lip balm, Tensor wraps and very small first Aid kit
Have been using a small loon UV flashlight for water treatment, so far so good, The 2 sock system has worked good for me, Tensor wraps help the knees a ton when doing the long downhill stuff. Carrying a few changes of long underwear that dry fast beter then carrying to much clothing, In my day pack allways carryed Plastic, good to wrap in when cold wind.
The most important thing,take what ever you need to keep happy feet. When your feet go the hunt is over
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Well, since Marv was mentioned:
Here's an interview (http://blog.kuiu.com/2010/05/03/an-interview-with-marv-clyncke/) with Marv and here is his gear list (http://kuiu.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/marvin-clyncke-gear-list.doc) .
hope this helps
homebru
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Originally posted by Homebru:
Well, since Marv was mentioned:
Here's an interview (http://blog.kuiu.com/2010/05/03/an-interview-with-marv-clyncke/) with Marv and here is his gear list (http://kuiu.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/marvin-clyncke-gear-list.doc) .
hope this helps
homebru
That was a great equip list!
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Thanks for the link
Great looking gear and gear list.
Here is a link to a snare, Its feed me on a few sheep hunts
http://www.denainalifeways.org/?q=node/27
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Originally posted by Kohout:
Thank you guys! I have a one more question. I have a good clothing and a pack(Sitka, Kuiu), I have a good boots (han wag) , but what else I will need? What a gear is necessarily for a sheep hunt? I know, the best of binoculars is recommended, but I would not want to spend two thousands and more for a binocular.
Thanks
Martin
Martin, if you can't see them, you can't kill them. You can find the best optics for a lot less than the list price if you are patient and look around. They will save you a LOT of climbing.
I spotted the ram I killed at 6 miles thru my Zeiss spotter. I was able to judge his size at two miles. The best optics are worth more than most will ever know. They will last forever. Mine have cost me about $100/season now...my goal is to get that down to about $20 per season :thumbsup:
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Paul, look like we should go for coffee one day!! I'm sure martin would really like that to!!
I will try to get there this august to try on a sheep. i'm sure there is a bunch of other/ better place for sheep in the Yukon to, that doesn't need the special permit.
Cheers
David
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Originally posted by Steve O:
Originally posted by Kohout:
Thank you guys! I have a one more question. I have a good clothing and a pack(Sitka, Kuiu), I have a good boots (han wag) , but what else I will need? What a gear is necessarily for a sheep hunt? I know, the best of binoculars is recommended, but I would not want to spend two thousands and more for a binocular.
Thanks
Martin
Martin, if you can't see them, you can't kill them. You can find the best optics for a lot less than the list price if you are patient and look around. They will save you a LOT of climbing.
I spotted the ram I killed at 6 miles thru my Zeiss spotter. I was able to judge his size at two miles. The best optics are worth more than most will ever know. They will last forever. Mine have cost me about $100/season now...my goal is to get that down to about $20 per season :thumbsup: [/b]
I was perfectly happy with my pair of Steiner binoculars till I got to talking to Steve about the same thing your asking. All I can say is be careful, the guy makes a lot of sense when he talks about hunting gear, to the point where I just received my Zeiss binoculars in the mail today, an they are everything everyone says they are. If you look around, you can get a barely used pair for a bargain. I called Zeiss before I sent out the check just to see what they had to say about the Zeiss warranty, and they told me it is a lifetime transferable warranty. My kid's kids will be able to enjoy the same binoculars and also have the warranty when handed down to them.
Just don't get in a rush to buy, and know a good deal when you find it (or at the very least, know someone that can tell you to jump on the good deal when it comes your way).
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I was perfectly happy with my pair of Steiner binoculars till I got to talking to Steve about the same thing your asking. All I can say is be careful, the guy makes a lot of sense when he talks about hunting gear, to the point where I just received my Zeiss binoculars in the mail today, an they are everything everyone says they are. If you look around, you can get a barely used pair for a bargain. I called Zeiss before I sent out the check just to see what they had to say about the Zeiss warranty, and they told me it is a lifetime transferable warranty. My kid's kids will be able to enjoy the same binoculars and also have the warranty when handed down to them.
This is a very good point, 1 good pair last a life time for all hunts.
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Hello guys. Thank you again for your support and help! That is a many useful informations.
Homebru, thank you for the gear list.
Paul, thanks for a great ideas from you.
David, you have the right, have to be a more good places for a sheep hunting in the Yukon.
Steve, which a binocular or a scope you recommend for me?
Thank you
Martin
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You don't need the latest and greatest that command top dollar such as the Zeiss HT, Swarovision ELs, or Leica Ultravid HDs. Let's call these 99.5%
If you get a used Zeiss FL, Swarovski EL, or Leica Ultravid, you will get all the bino you will ever need and never need to upgrade. Ever. These are your 99%.
Down to say the 90-95% level are your Leica Trinovids, Minox, Vortex Razors, Howa, Cabelas Euro.
Below that, you are better off finding a good pair to borrow or just keep saving for a pair above.
A tripod with a good head helps a tremendous amount when glassing. I hardly ever glass freehand anymore.
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We just need to find these places... There is at least one place I kind a know close to town, that would be good...
Anyway, next time Paul is in Whse we should get together to pick his brain... If he doesn't mind!!
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Might go into whitehorse soon?
Starting to warmup a bit, Thinking of going into Whitehorse, Us country folk dont go to city much, { coming on year for me }. Am chasing the stone sheep this year, Stones are some hard to find.
You and Martin should think of coming up for spring bear. See bears allmost daily here on Ross River
Whitehorse area and west off Whitehorse super for Dall sheep. Got my First 30 years ago behind Fish lake, Gray Ridge is a hunt That people dream Off, Its commen to be stocking big Rams everday
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The spring bear hunting on Ross River, that sounds great for me. I would be glad to do! Thank you for the invitation. I will come for the spring bear bowhunting. Where you going to go for the stone sheep hunting?
Martin
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Not sure where I will try hunt stones this year, will depend on my summer scouting. Live right in the heart of stone country, And ever year Rams turnup in the strangest places, South Canol allways a fav. of mine. Sheep creek close to lapie lake allways good
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here a link for none yukoner to see what we talking off
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=yfp-t-701&va=canol+yukon
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Paul, thank you for sharing your experiences a knowledge.
Martin
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Took my new (to me) Zeiss 10x42 FLT binoculars out at midnight this morning just to see how good they were. We have maybe an inch of snow on the ground, and with. 1/2 moon out last night, i was able to focus in on the bark of an oak tree a little over 50 yards away, and it was as if I was standing 2 feet away looking at the same tree at 10 o'clock in the morning.
When I got home at 5PM and opened the box, 1st thing I did was go out in my sun porch and watched snowflakes land on a pine tree 150 yards away. I then focused in on a radio tower 1 1/2 miles away, and with the naked eye, I can only see the blinking red light and a hazy blob in the shape of a tower. With my Zeiss, i was able to make out every piece of steel in the tower.
I can honestly say it is THE BEST money I have spent on hunting equipment.
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Originally posted by pruiter:
here a link for none yukoner to see what we talking off
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=yfp-t-701&va=canol+yukon
Those pictures are fantastic! The Yukon is the destination of my dream hunt someday. :campfire:
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Joeabowhunter
If you ever comeup send me a email, we can guide canadains here on a hunt ever 3 years
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Steve O is spot on. Don't think you even need the Swarovski EL to get into the 99% range. The Swarovski SLC binos have pretty much the same optics but a different body style that I actually prefer, and they cost less (but are still expensive). My all time favorite is the Leica Ultravid HD. Still, that is based on lots of personal preference aspects of the binoculars, not just the optics. The best of the Swarovski and Zeiss binoculars are optically equivalent to the Leica Ultravid HD's, so take your pick on what seems to you to be the best of the best. I have been all over the world hunting with my old Swarovski SLC binoculars, and I have never thought I was at a disadvantage by not having one of my newer, more expensive, optically superior (by a little) binoculars. Like Steve says, 99% is good enough. However, I now usually pick the Ultravid HD's for my hunting trips -- I already paid for them, and they're the best.
On the other side of the optics, my favorite spotting scope is my Swarovski HD STS 80mm. There are some other spotting scopes in this class, but I prefer the totality of the features on my Swarovski over the other comparable scopes. But when it comes down to packing a spotting scope up a mountain (or many mountains) looking for sheep, I might choose the 65mm version of the scope to save weight and bulk, or even take along my little Leupold Gold Ring 60mm folded path spotting scope. One story about spotting scopes in the mountains of the Yukon Territory. My best friend, his guide and a cook rode on horseback out to an area where no hunters had been for at least 20 years, and then he and his guide hiked up higher during the days to glass the surrounding mountains for moose. My friend had purchased the Kowa Prominar 88mm scope that has outstanding optics but is not fully rubber armored like the Swarovski. He glassed with his Leica binoculars and the Kowa scope, seeing several moose at long distances, and was able to judge the antlers well enough to have an idea of their size. Finally, using the Kowa scope, he spotted a moose on a distant mountain that appeared to be huge. He would never have spotted the moose without the amazing optics of his scope because he could not see the moose at all through his binoculars or through the guide's Nikon scope. My friend was able (and willing) to travel for half a day to get within range to shoot the moose, which was the biggest moose taken in the Yukon in 2011 and one of the top 10 taken there ever. It's hard to over emphasize the importance of top quality optics, especially in vast wilderness areas like the Yukon.
Allan
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Thank you Allan for the interesting story. I would like to ask you. If you recommended a binocular for bowhunting on the Yukon, which one will winner?
Martin
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Steve, your opinion interests me also.
Thank you
Martin
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Martin,
When you get into that 99% level, it gets down to personal preference. The images you see are very, very close and it comes down to "feel".
As Alan said, a few years ago, Swarovski upgraded the SLC series glass to that of the EL. Great. But, the way the ELs feel in my hand along with the way The focus felt on a recent pair I tried at Cabels would have me saving up a little longer for the ELs every time.
My pick, if I had to pick ONE binocular for the Yukon?
Well, if I had unlimited cash it would be a 10x42 Swarovski EL With Swarovision. They are incredible.
If I was spending my own money I would find a pair of lightly used 10x42 Leica Ultravids.
With that said the bino I will be taking the next time I go to the Yukon are my 10 x 42 Zeiss FL T because I was able to find a new pair at an incredible close out price last spring. That $$$ overcame the slight ergonomics preferences I have for the Leicas.
Again, do not overlook putting your binoculars on a tripod with a good head. It is amazing how much more you can see when you sit down for a while and study with the binos. I will grab some pics and weights for you later.
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One thing you might consider is the repair departments and warranty of the big 3. I have sent my Leicas back and their repair dept. is terrible. Swarovski has a reputation for being top notch. My Leicas are nice, but if I did it again I would get the swaros.
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I got the two Tony Russ books. And started on them yesterday. Interesting read for sure.
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David, did you buy the books in the Books Store on Main Street?
Thanks
Martin
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Originally posted by pruiter:
Joeabowhunter
If you ever comeup send me a email, we can guide canadains here on a hunt ever 3 years
Paul, I hope I can take you up on that offer someday.
Thanks,
Joe
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Martin, I did. Pricey, but by the time they get here and you add shipping etc... I'm sure you can find them cheeper, but buying local is good to!
Cheers
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Thanks David
Martin
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you'r welcome. I just "ordered" a pair of HangWag boots today....
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wow. I have one pair of HanWag, the awesome boots. Great for a sheep hunting.
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I hope so... I'm still waiting on price and availability.... With my feet size, they are the only one available locally that will fit!!
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We have same size of boots I think. If you wanted, you will try my boots for sure.
Martin
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I tried a size 12uk, it was a bit tight... So I ask them to look if they could get a 12.5 uk... We'll see. Thank you for the offer!
David
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Hanwag is bit tight, but I never had the problem with this. I have Meindl boots with 200gr isolations also and it is more width, but I prefer my Hanwag anyway.
Martin
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(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/osminski/2013%20Post%20Pics/756FC7DE-389E-467D-BE73-E4965E9390B6-161-0000010A99062D22_zpsd134c00f.jpg)
Martin--
On the right is my mountain setup. It is a Slik Sprint Mini with a Jim White Fluid head. It weighs 2lb and 2oz. I will never be without it, no matter how steep the mountain. It helps that much.
There is a quick release plate on it so I can go back and forth between the bino and spotter when needed.
For reference, to the left is a full size Monfretto tripod with a Bogen 322RC head. That is definitely a truck camp setup! It will handle the Duovids and spotter at the same time.
The big tripod is not extended at all, it can be used for standing if I want. The Slik is halfway extended, it can be used from a chair, but is usually nestled between my legs on the side of the hill for stability.
Here is a shot from sheep spike camp in Colorado.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/osminski/Colorado%202007/BuffaloPeaks007.jpg)
I found a lot of that country could be glassed with the spotter rather than the binos.
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I'm loving this thread. Nice to see other people's set ups. I guess I am old school (or maybe just stupid) when it comes to glassing. I like to flop down on my back and roll over on my side because I am very comfortable glassing with my binos oriented almost vertically (looking sideways at the mountain). I find that position very relaxing and pretty stable even with 10 or 12 power binos. Although you have to have the tripod for the spotter, laying down with binos is more comfortable for me. I get a cramp in my back just looking at Steve's picture above. Others might cramp up or give up after 5 minutes of laying on their sides and looking at the mountain sideways...
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Hi Steve, thank you for your advices. I have a one more question. What you prefer for scouting. A spotting scope or a binocular?
Thank you
Martin
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Martin, Colorado has been the only place I have hunted where you could actually use the spotter to glass. Typically the spotter is used to assess trophy quality or save a LOT of hard walking/climbing. If I could only take one it would be the bino.
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Practice shooting in different positions, Mostly laying down and on your knees, Sitting on your butt, holding bow almost horizontal.
I tried to pursue a flock of rams in a open field. spent 3 hours sliding on my back getting to rams, Got to within 20 yards of a good Ram, Sat-up and shot, Shot way over the Ram, Had my 70 pd longbow that hunt, Don't think ever got bow to full draw. no idea where my anchor was. from that day on, have always practiced shooting laying down.
Bow length can be important
Stocked a Ram in a creek drainage one-day, Stocked Ram going up the mountain. Had very good cover for the stock, big boulders and small Willow, Got to 15 yards very easy, Took the shot but something felt weird. Watched the Ram run away, Blood was running down Rams front leg, But Ram just kept running, Turns out my lower limb hit some brush shooting uphill and my arrow was low,
Next morning followed up on the Ram, Maybe walked 300 yards and could see the Ram laying on its side 400 yard away, on a high nub, Ram was laying on its side, head down looked as dead as dead. I gave a yell of joy. The Ram stood up, never to be seen again
Heavy arrows have worked better for me, Many days its so wind in sheep country, I use same arrows for sheep as moose.
Carrying arrows is a pain sheep hunting. Started with a bow Quiver, learned to hate that very fast, Feathers did not look very good after a week of swimming in thick Alder, and crawling for hours on end. Small Cat Quiver works the best for me.
Bear spray is a must !! August blue berries are ripe, lots of bears in that 100 meters above tree line, Bears eating berries don't like to run Give them lots of room, Bears hides not worth harvesting in August
Picking a camping spot is important when it comes to bears, The best camping spots are always beside a nice creek with good water. Its also the best habitat for sow Grizz with cubs. camping on a ridge above and walking down for water always a better idea. I bury my food under rocks, it don't stop a bear. but wakes me up to try scare bear away
just a bit on late season sheep hunting
October can be a great time to hunt sheep, Sheep will move down in the day time to the snow line, Watch for Rams feed on yellow Alder leaves, Try do most your glassing where leaves still hanging on. Its very hard to get into bow range when there feeding in Alder { its just to thick and to many eyes?} Setting up on there travel path to and from feeding has worked best for me.
Rams still bed in the high country at night, try to climb above the Rams and figure there travel way , Your wading in snow most times doing this, From what ive watched, Rams don't always go down, same way they come up. Watch there tracks in the snow { if snow is drifted or tracks snowed in, feel the track, the frozen side of the track is the direction the animal is traveling ) setup to ambush the Rams as they travel back and forth
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Paul,
thank you for the informations from you. It's the information could to help me. If I sleep on the top of mountain in the summer time, it will reduce contact with a bears?
Martin
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Try not to make your camp in a high bear traffic area, Bears spend most Their time 100 meters above tree-line and 100 meters below tree- line in mid summer. Small streams or springs that are common in high mountain valleys are prime habitat for Sow Grizz with small cubs. Sows with small cubs will live above the 100 meter zone to avoid male bears This brings the Sows with small cubs into high mountain valleys.
What am saying, Much better to make your camp on a ridge above a stream or spring and walk down to get your water, this keep you from the high traffic zone, Sow grizz will avoid your camp if your not in their travel or feed zone
Bears will cross over high rocky passes. But just to get to the other side, they don't live in high rocky passes, where we hunt sheep
Remember a time i was hunting sheep in a heavy fog. Don't think Visibility was more then 50 meters. heard rocks rolling in a pass below. I rushed down in hope it might be Rams, Worked my way to ridge edge, could hear rocks being walked on, coming my way. Out of the fog walked a 300 pd male Grizz. Wind was in my favour. Bear just walked right by at 30 yards and keep trucking over the pass and down the mountain
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Thank you Paul.
Martin
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Just found this thread, searching for info on sheep optics. Still excited Kohout? Ready for the hunt? Promise to post hunt pics?
I am a sheep rookie, took my $300 binos and $150 spotter to CO for first sheep hunt with a (gasp) tripod from Wal-mart; I thought that constant headache was from 12,000 ft altitude but it was actually from crappy optics. Took a month to get rid of cross-eyes! Wife said "look at me when I am talking to you" and I replied "I am trying, just give me a minute..."
I finally have a few $ in bank and can afford decent optics for my next sheep hunt, great info here, thanks.
Oh yeah, Kohout. Find a way to practice those very steep UPHILL shots; I didn't and it cost me big time.
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Good luck. Reading jack OConnor stories in Field &stream mag at ten years old down at the barber shop is mostly where my hunting itch started .
by the way guys. It's STALK.... Not stock... A big cat stalks his prey... A twenty year old STOCKS shelves at the grocery store
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I havent read every post.....but in reference to glass, and some thoughts I have.....
The best glass you can buy is one thing. And it doesnt mean the BIGGEST glass! 10x42 is TOOOO big! great glass but waaay to big to carry and glass with.
Too big of glass is over doing it if you're carrying a spotting scope. I've got a pair of 8x steiners, 8x swaro's, have used a host of other binos....the guys jumping to 10's+ seem to make the same comment, they're TOO much glass! Great glass....but just too big to lug around sheep country on a foot hunt!
Now you've got to remove your glass's to get the scope mounted to see if that ram's legal? I want a good glass 8x30, or even a 10x28 leica pair of compacts just to find sheep. I can typically tell at a good distance rams vs ewes/lambs though not always. When I'm going after a ram I've usually spent a considerable amount of time looking sheep over I dont need power up close. 8x32's have served me well, I WILl find a pair of gold ring 10x28's if i don't succumb to a pair of leica or swaro's of similar size before hand.
Weight is a HUGE factor! The army did a study and came up with 1 pound of boot weight equals 10lbs of pack weight......
most, heck probably ALL of us on our first mountain hunts went in WAAAAY too heavy!!! You're going to pay for light gear! There's some very basic things you need, anything after that is luxury. The question comes down to what can you live WITHOUT! I frequently have conversations with guys flying in super cubs on a moose hunt here in AK (fellow TG'r also) and it sounds like they take all but the kitchen sink! Imagine not needing the extra flight of gear in. How much it limits them in distance (though I dont want to pack a moose a zillion miles either lol, it WILL severly limit you in sheep country!)
My first pack was 77lbs on a sheep hunt in the wrangels 16 years ago. now I'm down to 53lbs for a solo 12day sheep hunt with no cush bag left at the strip, including a spotting scope and I think I can cut that a couple pounds in tent and sleeping bag weights. Late hunts my weight goes up due to a heavier bag and long undies. Needless to say there IS a cush bag (junk food, extra warm gear, instant potatoes, I keep it small if possible, its come in handy in almost every fly out hunt I've been on!). The cush bag can be whatever you want..m.ake it worth while and good. After 12 or 14 days of dehyradated food and oatmeal...grease and sugar are hot commodaties. The instant "loaded" potatoes will really fill ya up. The bear creek soups are also great if you have room but a mess to clean up....at that point I don't mind the clean up I have nothing but time.
You're going outfitted. First and foremost ask the outfitter what you DONT need....read that DO NOT NEED TO TAKE! That may or may not mean you dont or shouldnt bring it. A small titanium pot, 3oz stove and the medium can of fuel (likely picked up at your desitnation) can save your bacon! snowpeak gigapower and titanium pot. you dont need the lid if you keep it in the mesh bag but I do carry mine for some crazy reason ?!?!
I prefer platapus style water bottles. They are light take up little to no room you can carry a bunch (I carry 2 sometimes 3). I also carry a 2.5 gallon sized one for camp. Sheep country can be quite dry!!! I hate climbing off a mt once a day for water...HATE HATE HATE IT! 2.5 gallons plus my small bags are enough for a number of days depending on what I can find in the mts...ALWAYS stop for water! no matter how much you dont think you need! A gutted camel back is slick! no need to fish out water bottles you can sip water enroute. YOu can buy the hose system for clear platypus bags..worth every penny! I'd also consider a pouch in your pack for it. I dont have one and lay it on gear.....every now and than I have to stop if it gets pinched.
Your style of hunt (horses vs back pack) is going to dictate a lot of the gear you're going to need or not need.
Some other books of interest. Anything by Duncan Gilchrist. Trophy rams of the brooks range is a great read. He predates Tony's book. Both are out dated gear wise but will get you a good start. I'm still inspired at the old timers packs and weight. He also has videos if you can find them. And obviously Tonys books.
Jack Oconners sheep hunting book is a good read but it doesnt come cheap. I have a copy on the night stand....fun to read from time to time. You might be able to find a copy at the local library.
think light, and than cut that in half. Drill holes in tooth brush'es or dont take one. a cotton rag is nice, but not needed....no cotton undies! socks are needed, but be realistic! as with the rest of your gear.
Oh dont forget a book. I have a small bible I carry....I've carried a ton of books some waaaay to heavy for sheep country lol. but its inevitable you'll be tent bound a day or three.
one thing I need to find..is a lightweight pair of hippers. Glacier socks arejunk, hippers are too heavy. I need to try and keep my leathers dry. Once they're wet, they NEVER get dry! This year I'm going to try a light weight pair of neopren dive shoes. They weigh around a pound. if you've ever had to walk acrossed a creek barefoot...you'll know what pain's like when you get to the otherside. arctic water is ICE cold! Walking on fire might be more comfortable or downright soothing LOL. I figure if I have to get wet (and I do on every hunt I go on it seems), I might as well keep the leathers dry and my feet in good shape. I can get my legs warm again but my feet take awhile to recoup after walking a icy cold stream.
Take care of your feet! without them you're on the most exspensive camping trip of your life! If I had to pony up and make cuts, this is one piece of gear I WOULDNT do it on! I'd buy a cheap pair of glass before I buy another junk pair of boots!
I've probably said the same thing 20 different ways.... Think about what you can cut, or ways to get light! A pair of 8x or 10x28 leica or swaro's is plenty good for sheep if you are carrying a scope....and they are LIGHT!!! Anything bigger than my 8x32 swaro slc's (or comparable) is TOOO BIG and not needed, a 10x32 in the same size as the 8x would be ok as you're not upping weight....too much magnification can be detrimental also.
I'd pony up and carry an extra pot and stove (I prefer the snowpeak gigapower for most of my hunts, I dont remember off hand the pot but its NOT large!). It holds enough water for a 40 oz mt house with very little to spare. QUALITY BOOTS! NO cotton MANTIES period. Keep your boots dry at all costs!!!! 2 weeks of wet feet = trench foot, 02' the bottoms of my feet peeled big time! to the point walking was difficult in sneakers! NEVER drink unfiltered water at all costs. Aqua mira is cheap as is iodine tablet back ups! carry enough bag, but dont go crazy! I prefer an external frame. I have 0 experience with internals on sheep, I dont like how hot they get ya and dont believe you can carry the weight you can with externals (barneys anchorage alaska is a sweet rig, the frames worth every penny!). I use pillow cases for game bags. Again due to weight!
A tube for arrows is nice. I have yet to find one, but my old sheep buddy carries one on goat hunts and its slick! I believe they are sold at drafting supply stores. It looks similar to the one 3 rivers sells. it allows you to strap arrows to your pack safe and sound. You can still have 3 or 4 in a quiver. I prefer a side quiver even for sheep. My next go to would be a bow quiver.
xtra strings, carry a couple!
razor blades and a small hunting knife (knifes of alaska cub bear is a sweet knife) is all you need! razor blades for turning the face on your ram. Duct tape 5-10 in a bundle stick in your first aid pack). leave another 5-10 in your 'cush' bag at the strip/base camp. use your knife for the more broad open areas, the blades for eyes ears finishing the nose lips. Make sure you cut behind the pits/shoulder area for a shoulder mount! if you get blood on your hide, use a wet rag and get as much off as you can BEFORE it dries!
Gut your first aid pack, you dont need most of the crap that comes in them. ie scissors, splinter picker etc. But you should carry something in case of emergency. As with all your other gear, find things that do double or triple duty. Dont forget asprin/ibuprofin pain killing something. I dont use them but the one time you need them they are worth having. Be realistic with meds....you're on a starvation diet doing an endurance style hunt. If you think you need it, bring it and leave it in your cush bag at a minimum! Your life is not worth a sheep!
Lastly TWO walking sticks!!! If you're putting miles on you dont need bow in hand. If you're packing a heavy haul you're likely tagged out, again no bow. BRING TWO...leave one in camp while hunting.
I'm sure I'm forgetting a ton of stuff. You'll get plenty of idears from guys whove been there. We've all got a system that works for us. I keep seeing the 10x42 listed as good sheep glass and its a great glass...if it wasnt like carrying a brick around your neck LOL!
Good luck, post pics, there's something special about sheep country only a sheep hunter knows after weeks of pain, craving a beer and the nastiest greasiest burger you can find. You'll be waiting for the high country again so prep yourself for the diesease!!!!
almost forgot one thing. My buddy takes two things, bullion cubes and a handful of crystale light in the small puches. They are a nice to have warm drink. you can boil a little extra water and drink it while your dehydrated foods heating up. I started doing the crystal light and really like it.
dont wait till your a few weeks out to pack/play with gear/food! you'll be too late by than!
good luck!
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I wouldnt take just one (bino vs scope).....that last 1/2" (legal vs non legal) is about impossible to see even in 10x at longer ranges. hence the lighter lower power glass for finding sheep and trying to decide rams/ewes or other points of interest...and the tripod and scope for zeroing in on things.
I have the leupold 12-40x60mm with a leupold back packer tripod. Its quite small and I hated the thing at first. By the end of that hunt I was on the prowl for one of my own...I now have 2...light weight and compact and can handle my scope easily! weight weight weight....(disclaimer, the only horses I have is my 2hp feet)
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I bowhunted Caribou, Grizzly and Moose in northern BC/ Yukon border. My guide was a bowhunter from Whitehorse. He lives in Whitehorse and has invited me back to hunt with him again. He does not work for a company, but himself. If I was to hunt in the Yukon, I would call him and get some advice on equipment, areas, animals, etc. Sorry, I don't have his phone number with me, but if you did some research with a directory or internet, I am sure you could find him. His name is Troy Hope - Whitehorse Yukon.