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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: awbowman on September 17, 2013, 07:42:00 PM
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I need some advice. I bought some wood arrows (cut and fletched). on St. Jude's auction. Shot pretty well from the start. Ordered three like arrows (also cut and fletched) from Snag and good flight with field points. Got excited, ordered a dozen very nice completed arrows from Snag. Mounted some field points , shot well, mounted some 145 grain Eclipses and they group but shoot 4-6" left at 15 yards, and just gets worst.
I get they are too stiff and the 2-blades are making it worst.
I really like the Eclipses and would like to shoot them. Can I just foot the arrow to weaken the arrow or do I need to go up in point weight. Three weeks before the season and I'm thinking I'll have to go with carbons. My confidence is lost with the woodies. My goal is the kill with a wood arrow.
HELP!!!
BTW, my specs are in the signature. I'm shooting a 50-55spine, 27" BOP, surewood shaft. 3-5" shield cut fletching, 145 grain BH.
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Did you bare shaft?
Also do a google search for "woody weights" they will help you get more weight up front without buying new points.
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Did not bare shaft. I was told that they might be stiff, But figured I'd just change heads. The field points fly well and where I look so they are probably close (maybe 160 grain).
Bowyer also suggested 160 grains. I like the Eclipses and would prefer not to change heads
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If your arrows are flying good and you are a right handed. Just bring your brace hight up a few turnes at a time (2-3 turnes shoot and 2-3 turnes shoot) until your arrows fly to center.
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I've bumped those heads up to 160 by putting lead in the ferrul.
Eric
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If they group well, and are merely grouping left on the horizontal plane of your field points, As above, adjust brace and/or add lead with a short taper.
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Oh, i forgot to say that I did lessen my brace height and it did move them about 2" to the right, so I'm about 4" left and knock left. I'm right handed. Problem is I am down to 6-1/2" brace height and don't want to go lower. What's the lightest woody weights they make?
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75g
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Would the footing work? It would add some strength but would it stiffen the arrow and negate the extra head weight?
I have several E loose and Ace heads and I like them and with a 34 grain adapter, they shoot out of my carbons.
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I like the eclipse head too, but I'd give it up in a heartbeat for a better tune. Too stiff is much better then to weak in my book. Lots of good 160-200 grain broadheads out there with added foc! Might just find your new favorite head. I've also melted lead in quite a few, that works great to.
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Raise the brace height, don't lower it.
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If your still using the leather strike plate that Dan puts on all his bows try and replace it with a piece of soft velco which will help move your impact point towards the bow. This is why I bareshaft all arrows before fletching and final set up. Good luck I am sure you will get her fixed up.
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Hate to be a bother, but would footing the arrow work?????????????
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Originally posted by gringol:
Raise the brace height, don't lower it.
Wouldn't raising the brace height make the arrow shoot stiffer and not weaker? Man I have to rethink my thinking????
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If not cut to center the angle of the arrow relative to the center line is less acute at higher brace height, so less paradox is required to get it around the riser. In theory anyway.
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The Super D is cut just short of center. Thanks for the info. I was thinking more time on the string (power stroke) would weaken the spine).
This place has lots of good information for us newbies.
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imho, woodies are not for newbies. best to appreciate the ethical consistency gained from carbons. woodies require more thought and care and a more consistent shooting form. this is NOT to say woodies are not worth shooting - on the contrary, they can be amazing shafts for taking all manner of north american game. start off with carbons so that as a newbie you'll know it's not the arrow's fault if you miss. jmho.
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I had a case last year with a fellow that said his arrows were jumping left, Zwicky Deltas. He had them mounted vertical, we changed one to horizontal and the problem was gone, but he said that it was a bit harder to aim at first.
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Interesting info Pavan ... I'll have to test this out when I get a chance.
Raising brace height will slightly increase draw weight, making arrows bend slightly more. Opposite for lowering brace height.
I think the easiest way to approach it is getting new points. 4-6" @ 15 yards is probably going to take more than a brace height adjustment to fix. I'd say you probably need more than 15grains additional up front too.
I'd try a 190gr field point and broadhead and see how that works out for you. Lots of good heads in that weight.
Otherwise, you could go and bareshaft tune with field points and get close before buying new broadheads. You'd need a field point test kit like 3 rivers sells and some paper and a bare shaft.
IMO bareshafting should be step 1 to determine proper point weight. Then get broadheads of proper weight. Then fine tune brace height to get a perfect tune.
The truth is that with field points on a bow with any kind of cutaway and decent form, a ridiculously wide range of spine can shoot well. When you add a broadhead and need it to impact in the same spot it's a different story.
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Is it possible that your broadhead is mounted crooked? Possibly planing, or wobbling in flight? :dunno:
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You are correct, a hardwood footing would add tip weight and length if desired and either one would effectively soften the spine. Another option is to rifle the tip of the shaft and insert a nail.