Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Fattony77 on April 07, 2014, 01:31:00 PM
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The other day I finally started tuning some GT trads (55/75) for my 59#@28" TimberGhost Smoke which is cut 3/16 past center. I'm drawing a full 28" and am trying to get a 300gn. point weight to tune well by trimming the shaft.
My brace height is set at 6.5" and nock point is at 1/2", shooting 3 under.
I ended up settling on 31" length (for now?) when I had to stop for the day due to fatigue. At this length, it's coming in at 625 grains giving me around 10.5gpp. I want to stay around the 10 (ish) gpp neighborhood, if at all possible.
The guys that were helping me at the local shop were more interested in the fletched shafts' flight than the bare shafts, saying that the bare shafts are "always going to kick around."
I know that it's possible to get a bare shaft to fly straight, but I also know that I may not shoot well enough to reach that perfect bare shaft flight.
The bare shafts were consistently nock left in the target (right handed shooter), but they grouped fairly well with the fletched shafts.
So, in your experience, am I still a little weak? Or, should I just leave "good enough" alone?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm counting on your expertise!
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It is certainly possible to get GT bare shafts to fly straight. I have done this for many different bows since first being taught the method by Ken Beck of Black Widow.
If you're drawing 28", you can cut all the way down to 29" before you run out of room to draw a broadhead safely. I would suggest continuing to cut 1/4" at a time, and see if you get improved bare shaft flight.
From my experience, 1/2" nock point is a little low for 3 under. If you experience a nock low flight, or if you get any bounce off the shelf resulting in a false nock high, then you may want to increase your nock point to 5/8" or 3/4" and see if bare shaft flight improves. However, I do have a bow that tunes fine at 1/2" nock point and I also shoot 3 under, so it is not impossible that your nock point may be correct.
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Thanks, McDave. I only noticed a very slight nock high orientation, but was concentrating on the left/right first. It didn't seem to be a major issue, though.
I also forgot to mention that I was shooting from 15 yards, if that helps to paint a clearer picture.
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What McDave said is right on. I have found that not much shows up at 15 yards, 20 is my minimum and 30 will reveal most of your sins.
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300grs on a .400 spine? 59lb draw? 3/16" past center? My guess is that those arrows are gonna be weak. I shoot 400 spine w/ 200-225gr 27" on a 52lb@26" bow cut 3/16" past center. ymmv
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Thanks, guys. I think I will go by again this morning and try some more without as much "help" and just get them to do some cutting for me and see if I can get 'em in the target a little straighter.
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I'd say you'd be better off with a stiffer spine. I have similar setup, BW PCHII 58@28 and I draw 28 1/2". My widow is also 3/16" past center. I never could get a .400 to fly good out of it. I'm currently shooting an 29 1/4" Arrow Dynamics HammerHead Trad with 200 gr up front. I also have some Byron Ferguson Heavy Hunter .320's cut 31" that will fly great with 125-175 gr. Hope this helps, good luck.
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I got bare shafts to fly straight out to 15 yards and I don't have the best release.
I found that arrow length really has a large effect on the flight.
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If your fletched arrows and bare shafts all group together at any range you shoot than you are good to go. I can never get a bare shaft to shoot perfectly straight due to slightly uneven pressure on my fingers but I can group a bare shaft just as accurately at 30 yards as my fletched shafts. Look at A&H's website under the tuning section and you will find the exact way I tune all my bows.
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Try a lighter point and see if they bareshaft better.
If they do bareshaft better with a lighter point then your setup was a bit weak.
Then you can go back to 300gr point and start cutting the shaft down 1/4" at a time to stiffen the shafts until they fly straight.
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Well, I went at it again today. I raised the nock point an eighth and it was perfectly level on impact from 15 and 25 yards. (Thanks, McDave!)
I ended up stopping at 30" with it still showing very slightly weak, but showing slightly stiff when I shot with a 250 gn. point. Though, that is when fatigue started setting in again.
Other than maybe some minor fiddling later, I think I'm right where I need to be now. I can't thank you guys enough! You are awesome!
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Kind of like having your own personal pro to advise you isn't it.
:)
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Fattony,
Glad you got the bow tuned! I know I have a time tuning my bows from time to time. I am not sure why, but my bows always like arrows with a stiffer spine. I shoot a #53@28 BW MAIII that I have to shoot .340 spined arrows out of. Weird. Everyone who I tell that suggests that my arrows should be "way stiff", or "something must be wrong".
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Hey Tony! How are those black and pink arrows flying?? Sounds like your getting her dialed in!! :thumbsup:
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Charlie,
It is like having your own personal panel of experts, only a lot cheaper! :D
Patrick, I had my string re-served to fit the GT nocks, so the nocks from your arrows don't fit anymore. Guess we'll hafta get together and get them back to ya. Maybe some stump shooting? :dunno:
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Your Smoke is only cut 1/8" past center. So the .400 may be a better choice. How do you like that bow anyways? I'm going back and forth trying to decide between a TG static recurve or a Smoke.
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Paul, I absolutely LOVE IT! I honestly think that the only other bow that I might want to buy would be one of Kent's take-down hybrids. And that's only because I think I might benefit from having a little more weight in the riser. The Smoke is very light, and I have trouble stabilizing my bow arm. Totally my issue, not the bow's! No matter what you choose, you can't go wrong with a Timber Ghost.
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Tony every time you post something about your bow I loss a little more sleep at night thinking about mine. I hope I get it soon so we can get together and do some shooting!