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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Jakeemt on April 29, 2015, 05:11:00 PM
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Here are 3 of mine.
Wood-an easy way to cut wood shafts to length is to score it deeply all the way around with a sharp pocket knife and then snap off the tip.
Aluminum- rough up the shaft a touch with a scotch brite pad to make your fletching glue adhere better.
Carbon-often you will have to buy your carbons locally and they will have plastic vanes installed. One of the best tools to remove those suckers is a potato peeler. It works quick and easy and won't cut fibers of the shaft. Works well to remove old feather fletching too.
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Here's how I prefer to apply fletch tape.
http://rysanpei.blogspot.com/2014/11/fletch-tape-for-feathers.html
How I sleeve my axis carbon arrows.
http://rysanpei.blogspot.com/2014/11/adding-life-to-my-carbon-arrows.html
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Ryan the very first carbons I sleeved I used that video for help! That was several years ago. If I remember right you used to have that up on you tube. before you had your own website.
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Cool! Thanks!
Yeah, it's the same video, I just wanted to try an organize the info a little better, so I put them up on a blog. It's supported by google, so the youtube videos were easily uploaded.
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When build carbons, trim a 1/4" off the nock end first. The ends of the shaft is where the run-out is. After you cut the point end of the shaft when cutting to final length, you will have made 2 fresh cuts on the length of that carbon shaft and a straighter better spinning arrow.
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I clean my alum shafts with comet cleanser and hot water in the sink. I use a scrub pad as well. Do not touch the shafts or quill on feathers with bare hands.
If shafts are carbon I use acetone and steel wool to remove the label printing. I follow up with a clean rag and acetone.
I use Rustolem 2X paint for outdoor furniture to spray cap.
I use MinWax Polycrilic, water based, on a foam brush to cover cap dip and cresting.
Wraps and fletch tape make the arrow making go faster and somewhat cleaner.
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great tips guys.
look- I did not know that. I will use that tip on my next set.
M60- I do the same with acetone and steel wool.
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Before installing new field points on wooden arrows heat them smoking hot with a torch to burn the oil residue out of them. They will adhere better.
I cut carbons by marking the exact length in pencil and clamp on the workbench and cut with a dremel cut off about 1/8" longer than the mark. I then sand them on a bench sander with a fence to size.
On woodies, straighten your shafts at least three times by rolling on the kitchen table before proceeding to building the arrows.
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Initially, pay particular attention to be sure the quills on your feathers are making solid contact with the shaft. After a few sets, such a basic thing will be totally second nature, but I had to re-fletch a few, because I did not pay attention to this detail.
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When dipping arrows thin your paint until the grain of the shaft is just barely visible on the first coat.
Buff with 000 steel wool when first coat is dry. Dip again and buff with 0000 when dry. Stop when the paint appears to be opaque.
Your finish will be very smooth.