Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Basstar on December 09, 2015, 12:23:00 PM
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I just began bare shaft tuning my new Prairie Predator (#41 @ 28) with about a 27.50”-27.75” draw length. I am shooting this bow off the shelf.
According to the charts I saw, using a 125 grain point, it was recommended that I use either a .600 spine carbon or 1816 XX75. I chose to begin the with 1816 XX75.
My first test was at full length (30”) with a 125 grain point. The arrows showed extremely weak with the nocks all pointing extremely left.
My second test was also at full length with a 100 grain point. Same result.
For my third test, I cut the arrows back to 28.50” with the 100 grain point. Again the same result. The arrows “appear” weak with the nocks all pointing extremely left.
Now, this is my very first attempt to shoot a longbow and although the arrows “appear” weak I am wondering if that may not be the case at all since they are showing the same with all three scenarios.
Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated and I thank you in advance.
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You could be getting a false weak reading. The stiff arrow is actually bouncing off the riser, forcing the nocks to hit the target facing left.
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Originally posted by NothingHappenedToday:
You could be getting a false weak reading. The stiff arrow is actually bouncing off the riser, forcing the nocks to hit the target facing left.
You gave me something to consider as I thought I could hear the shaft hit the shelf. I lowered the nock point about 1/16" and that seems to have quieted a bit but am still getting terrible left nocks.
I shot a couple of my fletched arrows for another bow and of course with the feathers they seem to fly fine.
Thanks for the tip.
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Plucking the string sometimes causes what you are getting.
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Point weight test kit. 3rivers sells them I have mine frow 75gr up to 315gr. Makes any tune alot easier. Easy to see what needs to be done.
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Just like Az-longbow said get a test kit. Try heavier weight points to see if it straightens out. If its false week you may be able to use the heavier point weight to get wher you want. Also it will not be a waste of money because you will need them eventually on new bows and arrow setup. You could also buy a arrow test kit that help you figure out what shaft you need before you buy any more shafts.
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Do not get bogged down with so many variables in tuning @ this point just keep cutting one quarter inch @ a time. It will come around.Just use one shaft and cut it from the knock side.Just relax and have fun with the tuning process.Do not stress about it.Read all you can, wrap your head around info from leaders in this sport and thread lightly on internet info from unknowns,with all due respect I suggest this cause we all want to help.
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Before cutting the shafts, try going up in point weight. An 1816 for a 41# bow might be a tad stiff. I use 1916s for bows well up into the 40s nearing 50#.
Also, flip your arrow 180 degrees with cock feather in to see if it helps.
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I shoot a 43#@28 prairie predator with a 27" draw. Mine likes a 1816 @29 1/4" and I get good flight with 125 and 145 grain points.
Also shoots a 29' GT Trad 600 with 250 up front.
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Originally posted by jamesh76:
I shoot a 43#@28 prairie predator with a 27" draw. Mine likes a 1816 @29 1/4" and I get good flight with 125 and 145 grain points.
Also shoots a 29' GT Trad 600 with 250 up front.
Thanks James for the insight. I shot some other actually lighter spined arrows with feathers and they looked fine, but bare shaft was horrible.
Have you shot this arrow combination bare shaft and if so, what were your results? Thanks
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Originally posted by Bud B.:
Before cutting the shafts, try going up in point weight. An 1816 for a 41# bow might be a tad stiff. I use 1916s for bows well up into the 40s nearing 50#.
Also, flip your arrow 180 degrees with cock feather in to see if it helps.
Thanks Bud. At this point I was bare shaft only.
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I would not trust nock direction when bareshafting. To a degree... The target material could cause some altering of the arrow's angle.
I fletch and tune with fletching on.
If you try heavier heads, please report back. I'd like to hear how it goes
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Originally posted by Bud B.:
I would not trust nock direction when bareshafting. To a degree... The target material could cause some altering of the arrow's angle.
I fletch and tune with fletching on.
If you try heavier heads, please report back. I'd like to hear how it goes
Thanks Bud, as I experiment more I will update.
In this case the arrows are either weak, showing false weak, bad form, poor release, some multiple of these issues, etc. but it isn't the target. All of the arrows are showing consistently nock left and are also flying nock left.
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Keep trying, that's part of the challenge and fun of the longbow.
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Are you new to shooting traditional bows? Im fairly new, and form has a huge influence on arrow flight. I tried bare shafting and I believe I got mine pretty close. I would shoot about 10 arrows and take the average. But, being a new shooter without really good form makes it quite hard to accurately bare shaft. I would try to get them close and fletch them up. Once you get your form solid then do some more arrows. That's the advice I got from many people on here.
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check your nock to string fit as well. too tight can make an arrow do all sorts of weird stuff.
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Originally posted by GRAYBEARD:
check your nock to string fit as well. too tight can make an arrow do all sorts of weird stuff.
Yep!
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Personally I never got an arrow to shoot straight while bare shaft testing yet, I don't waste my time on it. I fletch them up, and tune the bow to the arrow with the brace ht, up or down, and the nock point. But I'm simple like that and I use exclusively wood arrows.
If a guy has the time an patience for it I suppose it's a good way of doing things.
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Originally posted by Mike Mecredy:
Personally I never got an arrow to shoot straight while bare shaft testing yet, I don't waste my time on it. I fletch them up, and tune the bow to the arrow with the brace ht, up or down, and the nock point. But I'm simple like that and I use exclusively wood arrows.
If a guy has the time an patience for it I suppose it's a good way of doing things.
Well, since you are the maestro of this bow and know your bows better than anyone, I will heed your advice Mike. The arrows fly fine fletched so I will begin my practice from here.
Thanks for taking the time Mike so share your expertise. I am truly enjoying the bow "AND" have received several nice compliments on it already.
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yes I have shot both bareshaft. the GT were perfect if I did my part on the release. The Alum showed a tad weak.
on a side note, it shoots 40-42 spines poc 28 1/2" with 125 heads good. but I have not bareshafted them.
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Originally posted by jamesh76:
yes I have shot both bareshaft. the GT were perfect if I did my part on the release. The Alum showed a tad weak.
on a side note, it shoots 40-42 spines poc 28 1/2" with 125 heads good. but I have not bareshafted them.
Thanks James
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I need to add Alan, that wood arrows are a big difference when it comes to tuning. And me using wood arrows, do things a little different. Changing points and such of carbons and aluminum arrows are much easier than with wood arrows. You know? screwing a new point on/off is easier than dealing with glueing on/off. Anyhow, if you get the carbons or aluminums performing close to how you want them, when you fletch them they'll be perfect.