Quote from: mmattockx on February 26, 2026, 07:00:37 PM

Quote from: Kirkll on February 22, 2026, 11:27:47 AMActually I would prefer the artistic look of the calligraphy pen, but it's very difficult getting consistency on fiberglass. Same thing with a fine tipped roller ball pen... they don't work on glass very well at all.

A couple thoughts:

1) Have you tried scuffing the glass with fine sandpaper before writing on it?
2) Have you tried one of the brush pens that give a similar result to calligraphy pens, but wet the surface of pretty much anything?


Mark

What type of brush pen are you referring to?  Ya got my curiosity going with that one.


I always preferred the looks of calligraphy better than a paint pen, but I really suck at it for consistency. I pulled my hair out trying to get good at it too. But the fiberglass surface, even lightly sanded with 220 was just to slick to keep the ink flowing.  I'd love to up my game on the bow writing.

I mix mine closer to 2:1 resin to hardener, and pretty much just eyeball it. With too much hardener it's got a yellow tone to it and the viscosity is thinner. When it's 2:1 or close to it, it mixes up white in color and lays down much nicer with a putty knife. I always spread both surfaces in an even thin coat before going in the form.

Another little trick I use is putting both parts in a paper cup, and pop it in a microwave for 10-15 seconds before mixing it. It mixes much better when it's warm and spreads easily with a putty knife.

I've had really good luck with smooth on over the years with very few issues. But I've never mixed mine 1:1 so I can't compare strength quality.

Quote from: Maclean on February 26, 2026, 07:16:36 PMI agree with Steelhead. Gather as much info as you can, weigh the pros and cons, determine the main purpose of the bow, and discuss all of it with Jim before he starts the build.

Jim has a bow length to draw length (without stacking) chart on his website, and I used that as part of my criteria. When I told Jim I wanted a bow for hunting in thick cover and short distances of 20 yards or less, he immediately suggested the 58" with my 28.5" DL.

I couldn't be happier with my 58", and I found no difference in smoothness of draw cycle or accuracy when compared to my 60". I think I would have to compare the 58 to a 62 or 64 to notice any difference.

I've seen his draw length chart and my 28" draw fits well inside the 60" bow.
Thanks for the advice.

Quote from: Steelhead on February 26, 2026, 03:44:35 PMI really did not notice much difference if any between the 60 and and 62 inch bow as far as accuracy.Thats My personel experience.I think the 60 inch limb dampens out a tiny bit quicker do to each limb being 1 inch shorter.

The 62 inch bow with its longer limbs does have a tiny bit more reflex than the 60.I am pretty sure Jim told me that years ago.

When you get all the info you need.Think on it and talk to Jim before he builds the bow

Yeah I'm definitely going to have Jim call before he starts. I'm leaning towards the 60". Most of the people who have suggested for me to get the 62" don't own or have not shot a Centaur longbow and most of the people that say a 60" would be ideal own or have owned Centaur longbows. Even Jim and another well known archer have told me I'd be happy with a 60". I guess I have about 8 months to change my mind. I appreciate the advice.

The thing about smooth on at least 1-1. Never more hardiner than resin. I always use little more resin. And my hotbox usually gets to 130. Have had only two bows in 20 + year delam. Pretty sure one was a dry fire.

Ron and Roger Rothhaar's new book "In pursuit of Trophy Whitetails-The Final Chapters-The 21 Year Run" arrived today. A gift for my collection from my wife. Looking forward to reading this one. Thanks for taking the time, Ron.

I've used EA-40 in a 1:1 ratio in the few bows I've made. Several of those are still operating wonderfully after 20 years. The 2A:1B ratio states it has better heat resistance (not a concern I don't think) and improved properties. Are the improvements applicable to bow performance and for those of you who have used 2:1, is the difference noticeable? Or is it a case of "better" must be better?

I agree with Steelhead. Gather as much info as you can, weigh the pros and cons, determine the main purpose of the bow, and discuss all of it with Jim before he starts the build.

Jim has a bow length to draw length (without stacking) chart on his website, and I used that as part of my criteria. When I told Jim I wanted a bow for hunting in thick cover and short distances of 20 yards or less, he immediately suggested the 58" with my 28.5" DL.

I couldn't be happier with my 58", and I found no difference in smoothness of draw cycle or accuracy when compared to my 60". I think I would have to compare the 58 to a 62 or 64 to notice any difference.

Quote from: Kirkll on February 22, 2026, 11:27:47 AMActually I would prefer the artistic look of the calligraphy pen, but it's very difficult getting consistency on fiberglass. Same thing with a fine tipped roller ball pen... they don't work on glass very well at all.

A couple thoughts:

1) Have you tried scuffing the glass with fine sandpaper before writing on it?
2) Have you tried one of the brush pens that give a similar result to calligraphy pens, but wet the surface of pretty much anything?


Mark

I believe I have all my supplies rounded up and ready to go. Just need to decide on the riser block.