Quote from: BAbassangler on Today at 11:31:28 AMI disagree. Linseed oil is natural and works on wood regardless of its purpose and will accept many topcoats.
Mind is open though. Do you have experience negatively affecting an arrow?

I've refinished several walnut gunstocks with Linseed oil.   Hand rubbed, 10 coats, and it makes a beautiful finish.    The trouble is, it takes FOREVER to dry.   On something like a gunstock, it's gorgeous and worth the effort.   For arrow shafts, that juice ain't worth the squeeze.   MinWax Tung oil or any kind of poly is MUCH easier to work with and dries overnight.

I've been wearing progressive lenses for years without problems, at least not the problem you describe.  I'm far sighted and the top section of the lenses don't have much correction, just a little to cleanup the vision. I don't think I tilt my head down inordinately to use this section of the lenses.

I do notice that I will get a blurry picture if I don't turn my head enough toward the target, in effect looking sideways thorough of the lenses rather than straight througn them.  I consider this a good thing.  It reminds me to turn my head more toward the target.   

I just finished up testing and can say I did tell a difference with front node placement. I didn't like my miss "pattern".  Too many left and far left misses; I had to be too perfect to hit center bull; not forgiving enough for me.  Jake Kaminsky from YT sez put the node in the middle of where your arrow rubs the strikeplate.  I didn't get that detailed, so with longer Aluminum insert/brass weight combo, I got the node on or just behind my Center-rest...misses are now around the bull.

Another setup I shoot doesn't care what I do, so wrap your head around that one.

I've been wearing bifocals for more years than I care to think about, but never wore them when shooting my bows. But 5-6 years ago I noticed that picking a spot was a bit more difficult because things were getting fuzzy at 15-20 yards and further.  I tried shooting with my glasses, I have progressives everything was crystal clear but the nose piece interfered with my line of site (I shoot with both eyes open) and I would occasionally bump the string with my glasses.  I'm sure it was just the way I anchored.  So short story long I talked with my eye doctor and decided to try contacts, I know they aren't for everybody, but they work great for me, the targets are clear with no fuzziness and I wear 1.5 power readers for anything up close when I have them in and the same where I work, my safety glasses have a 1.5 magnifier in them.I have been to Colorado 3 times elk hunting since getting them I take a small mirror with me and have had zero issues with putting them in or taking them out.


Jason

As mentioned I've gotten picky about setup. I have an ILF LB and recurve with elevated rests, low grips (30ish), and 1/16" tiller. I shoot split with a middle finger pull, so standard 1/8 or zero tiller feels just a little vibey.  I'm root'n fer ya buddy. Go ILF and have your bow by the end of the week.  Tinker and be able to tell your bowyer exactly what you want when you have time to wait.

Quote from: Zacpierre on Today at 03:43:26 PMNever had the opportunity to shoot another trad bow other than board bows I made 10 years ago. Any WV trad groups you all know of? Or shoots? Would love to try something else out before I blindly buy a new bow. Current bow hasn't let me down but it's a 200$ Cabela's special...nothing wrong with that would just like a more high performance bow.

I think yer current longbow has straight limbs?  Or maybe very very slightly reflexed?

I just edited this ... I had one of those Internature longbows about 3 decades ago and wrote a magazine review of it.  If that's the bow you have, yep, it's a slow poke with slightly reflexed limbs. 

A mild or aggressive R/D longbow that accepts modern HMPE bowstrings will be a performance "boost" over a straight or slightly reflexed limb longbow.

Other than visiting a bowyer or archery shop or maybe bowyer or vendor at some archery event, try-b4-u-buy ain't gonna be all that easy.

Never had the opportunity to shoot another trad bow other than board bows I made 10 years ago. Any WV trad groups you all know of? Or shoots? Would love to try something else out before I blindly buy a new bow. Current bow hasn't let me down but it's a 200$ Cabela's special...nothing wrong with that would just like a more high performance bow.

Quote from: Zacpierre on Today at 03:20:50 PMIt was my understanding that the purpose of this forum was to inform about traditional archery. I simply asked a question about custom bow makers and was lambasted by an "admin" on my shooting form etc. I am simply trying to get a gauge on who makes reliable trusted custom bows and where one may find them, possibly with firsthand user reviews. I can use google as well as the next but sought out this specific forum because of the information and knowledge the users here possess. If I am in the wrong please let me know how to correct my action.

Yer in the right place, but yer question about what bow to get is quite broad and encompasses hundreds of different brand and model bows, and look at all the answers you've gotten already in such a short period of time.  Better you go out on yer own, as most do, and select some that tickle yer fancy, then if need be come back, list 'em out, and see what others say.  Their advice may be far more helpful about the time factor and overall bow quality.  As mentioned before, in the short run it's really not about the bow, so literally ANY bow might bond well with you and make meat (as yer current longbow has done for you, for decades).  Enjoy the bow buying journey!     

Quote from: BAbassangler on Today at 03:19:11 PMY'all are cra-cra    Maybe his bow is slow, or has hand shock, or not fast-flight compatible, or have a leather grip?  Better is subjective.

Absolutely right on. 

Try Ole' Battle, or Diruzza's.  Both make longbows and have great YT reviews.  They might only have FB pages.  Another guy in Florida, Bushmen Bows, Cody D'acquisto from LWCG has reviews also.