I haven't shot a Pika to compare, but do have a Chinook and have had a couple PCH's and several PSA's.  The BW's are wonderful bows and great people.  Their bows are steady and reliable, but wouldn't say they have better performance over a Toelke.  I have shot a PL for years and love the thing. Taken a lot of critters with it, but I got that Chinook and it's crazy how much smoother it is to shoot and the speed is at least as fast. I have never chrono'd anything.  Biggest reason I think you should stick with a Pika in the weight you need is physical bow weight.  That pch would be waaay heavier than that nimble little Pika. That I promise you.  I think it would be a lot louder as well.  I wouldn't switch for that hunt if I were you.  If you just want a widow later great, but I sure would want something you're use to and the physical weight you're used to for a hunt like that.  Good luck and let us know what you go with! Good problem to have! 

The basic BW design places the grip a good 1/2" to 1" farther forward than most bows, to enhance stability, and the pch follows this same design feature.  This results in a higher brace height than other comparable bows.  For example, I brace my BW's at 8 1/2" and other comparable recurves at 8", on the average.  (The pch would probably have a lower BH than this because it is a shorter bow than the BW's I shoot).  This means that the working draw length of a BW is less than other comparable bows by this same difference, which has an effect on performance.  BW does everything they can to increase performance to offset this built-in feature, but there's no such thing as a free lunch, so most other bows without this feature will have higher performance than a comparable BW.

You either like it or you don't.  I generally prefer my BW for hunting because hunting is done at closer ranges where stability matters more than performance.  For 3D or longer range shooting, I prefer a bow with more performance, or a heavier, longer bow that offers both stability and performance, but at a cost in weight and flexibility that is more than I want in a hunting bow.

Way to stay after them

Congrats on a good one

You might also try Forrester wood shafts.  He has a facebook page. 

Quote from: Jeb_N on January 02, 2026, 11:31:46 PMI have a 6x80 on the way to me now with these same plans. Make a flush bearing underneath the motor pulley so my riser jig can ride on it. I have access to a metal lathe to make the ring. (or rub collar). I was using a robosander from Picou Deisgns on a drill press. It works but not the best for hogging out very much.

There is no comparison to a robo sander. Once you set your pattern sander up with a 36 grit belt on it you will be pleasantly suprized. The only thing you really need to watch closely is the tracking on the belt. Don't get it too close to the bearing. Some guys have had their drums turned flat on the motor end where they mounted the flush bearing. I didn't mess with that on mine and it works just fine. 

Another little trick is making your patterns thicker so you don't have to run that belt so close to the bearing, and screw up your pattern guide.  Using high density pattern base material is worth while too.  Plexiglass works ok for awhile, but you are better off using 1/4" g-10 or micarta for longevity.   
.02 cents worth.

Quote from: Onehair on December 06, 2025, 06:56:12 AMI have used it from the ground for several years. I prefer to face the tree. Most comfortable to me with my right knee on the ground

How do you shoot facing the tree?

Pine Hollow sells hickory shafts, and 3 rivers still had ash last time I checked

Anyone know of a quality shaft manufacturer of hard maple, or ash, or hickory wood shafts? Any recommendations? I love my surewoods, but looking to see what's out there that's even heavier and tougher. Thanks!

Very cool - congrats!