Gold tip 7595

[Pivo]

I know I could get this answer from big Jim, but since it's Christmas morning I figured I would ask you guys. Big Jim has 7595's listed on his site in 340 and 300 spine. I was unaware they made the shaft in both spines. Is this a misprint?  Thanks and Merry Christmas

[stalkin4elk]

I think the blacks are 340 and the trad camo or "wrapped" are 300 and they are slight different grains per inch.
Merry Christmas!

[DanielB89]

I remember speaking with him earlier this year. If I recall correctly, he said they were going away from the 300's and moving the 7595's to .340 spine. So he probably has some old and new stock. He will chime in here and let you know.

[straight_arrow]

The black 7595's are 340.

[BigJim]

The 300 wood grain are old stock. When they are gone, that's it unless you go with another wrapped shaft such as nugent or camo, etc.

The 340 woodgrain has replaced the 7595 (or 300). wood grain and black is the only way you can get a 340 spine from gold tip.

Thanks and merry Christmas. ..bigjim

[Pivo]

Thanks guys. Enjoy Christmas, God bless

[Pivo]

Thanks guys. Enjoy Christmas, God bless

Originally posted by BigJim:
The 340 woodgrain has replaced the 7595 (or 300). wood grain and black is the only way you can get a 340 spine from gold tip.

Thanks and merry Christmas. ..bigjim

Is there a typo here, or am I just not reading this correctly??? It says the .340 woodgrain replaced toe .300, and then it says you can only get .340 in black???

Bisch

[old_goat2]

At one time there was actually a third spine of .320 labeled 75/95. It was the camo wrapped model. I hate to see them stop making the .300, with my long draw, I've had several bows that needed them if I wanted any amount of tip weight up front!

[motorhead7963]

I don't understand why they changed there spine designation in the first place. I have been buying GTs ever since I got into archery and understood the spine rating as they were, a 35/55 designated was for bows with a draw weight between 35lbs and 55lbs etc.etc. now they changed them to .340, .400 etc. etc. now that is confusing to me and IMO makes no sense.

[BigJim]

Motorhead, we have been begging them to change their nomenclature for years because their rating doesn't mean that...except for compounds. Yes, for some trad it may fall in those guidelines but most would not.
Bisch, wood grain and black are the only ways to get a .340 spine e from GT.

I shoot 300 mostly myself. My experience is that most are better off with a 340. Due to false readings while tuning, a lot of guys end up with shafts way too stiff.
I currently shoot 300 out of a 67# @ 32" bow cut 1/8" past center I draw 32" I have 311g up front and they bare shaft perfectly at full length and 25 plus yards but if I short draw slightly, they are too stiff.
My 62 lb bow of same model loves 340's as does my 67lb center cut.

Now not everything is equal, but that's a lot of stress put on an arrow for it to be almost too stiff.
Just my findings, BigJim

[bswear]

So if you want .300 and woodgrain the only option is 3 Rivers trad only  shafts?  I am surprised  there aren't more people needing this spine but  if they were sellin I suppose they would be made.  The guys who need 32 " arrows and want 200 gr head can't be that rare.  I am only shooting 55 lbs.

[bswear]

Big Jim,

You posted at the same time as me!...Maybe I fall in the group you are talking about.  BW PSA [email protected]., 200 gr. heads.  340 is more nock left than .300 but neither bare shaft perfectly.  I leave them full length but maybe based on your advice the 340 is what I need and cut them to 31". For what it's worth, Stu Miller says .300.

[Tedd]

Bswear you are probably getting a false stiff with both the .340 and the .300. .340 should be plenty. I'm shooting 57@31 with 250 grain heads out of a BW and a .300 is too stiff.

[motorhead7963]

Thanks for the clarification Jim, but I gotta say that is exactly how I started out with my spine choice with my Wheelie bow and it is still the same way I figure out my spine for my trad bows and it works quite well for me. I guess I am the odd man out here.

[bswear]

Tedd,

You mean false weak(right handed)?  The only .340's I have tried are the Trad Only shafts.  I  did shoot arrow dynamics for a while but got tied of all the junk you had to add to get decent nocks and collars, etc.  I will get some new 340 gold tips or maybe someone can recommend something else.  I even considered legacy 2219 but the charts say  they want a very light point and glue on nocks are not my favorite.

[BigJim]

We have some 340s in the blems at this time if you want to try them. we even sell them one at a time or six...plus they are on sale.

Don't forget that a black widow recurve is cut 3/16" past center and is a little more tolerant of spine variation...

I have to say, that most everyone here on these sites must be better than I am especially when it comes to tuning because no matter what I do, I don't ever, and I mean ever get a perfect tune over and over and over day after day from the same stuff. Some days, I just don't have it in me.

(not a reflection necessarily on the posts for this particular thread but a generality of what I read time and time again)
 
Put feathers on it and it can be hard to decipher the good from the bad until I add broadheads.
Now you might just think that I don't know what I'm doing and your probably right because some times I think I have lost my freaking mind too, but somehow I'm able to (when not day dreaming about hunting trips) turn in some pretty respectably scores even with an occasional tail whip or proposing arrow.

More power to you if your bow can read a chart, BigJIm

[acolobowhunter]

I have shot the GT 75/95 (black) for many years.  I tried the wood grain in the same 75/95 and the arrow flight was terrible.  I didn't know about the spine difference, but went back to the black 75/95's and every thing is fine.

[Lonehowl]

Newer black ones have had the spine labled on them for some time? I shoot mostly a Bob Lee recurve 64" 55@30 and I shoot the .340's.

I will say...I struggled for a while with GT arrow selection. I did the whole Stus calculator deal, other spine charts etc, but couldnt seem to dial it in. I got discouraged, but then I just stepped back and started from scratch.
I ordered a couple GT shafts in 3 different spines..55/75 and the 2 different spines of 75/95 (.340 and .300). I bare shafted each and really felt that .340 was where I needed to be, which was my original thinking.  So I concluded that something else was wrong, and I was right. I took a hard look at my release. I found that I was torquing the string...a lot. I had sort of suspected this. I cleaned it up and my arrow flight immediatly improved to basicly shooting bullets.
Im actually glad I struggled with this, because I researched and learned a bunch about string release, which was quite interesting to me.

Anyways, sort of off topic, but hopefully my little experience will help someone out down the road, searching topics.
Mark

Edit to add...I always hate when Im struggling with arrow flight and I see others using the phrase "shooting bullets" lol....but..I had to do it.