beginner bows

[dpg]

I have few friends that have never shot a bow before, but would like to learn.  My hunting recurves are too heavy, so I'm thinking about picking up a couple of decent used bows in the 35-45 lb range to get them started.  My question is: what brands/models of recurves would you recommend as good starter bows?

[CRM_95]

I just bought my first and got a Samick Sage. I've been happy with it, but really haven't shot anything else to compare it to.

[McDave]

Any of the Samicks would be a good choice. 45# is too much to start someone off on. An average man should start off at about 35#, and an average woman at about 25-30#.  A child should start off at about 15-20#, depending on age and strength.

[Soilarch]

I know that I wish I had made the switch from a 74# compound to a 40# bow. I spent nearly 2 years convincing myself I didn't need to drop weight...and I've ended up losing that aurgement.

Something at least 58" and no more than 40#.

[Duncsquatch]

I agree with the poundages Mcdave reccomends, I started off at 55lbs and went down to 36lbs then back up as I learned.  Also for beginners stay away from short bows if possible.

[CRM_95]

Originally posted by McDave:
Any of the Samicks would be a good choice. 45# is too much to start someone off on. An average man should start off at about 35#, and an average woman at about 25-30#.  A child should start off at about 15-20#, depending on age and strength.

Sound advice for sure. I bought mine with 45 lb limbs and wish I'd gotten 40 lb limbs instead. I'm comfortable with it now, but at first it was tough and I couldn't shoot as much as I do now.

[shag08]

35# Samick Sage would be perfect. I bought one for my wife. I really enjoy shooting it from time to time myself.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I started with 40 lbs and feel it was just about right although the first couple times shooting it, I fatigued quickly.

I think it would be fine to pick up any used bow... probably an old production bow.... just get them started, if they really like it and want to get more advanced, you will know, then you can decide where the next step is when you get there.

[Dave Worden]

The Samick Sage is probably the best VALUE available in new bows.  Not to say there aren't better bows, just no better bow for the money, IMO.  You may also consider ANY Shakespeare bow if you want to look at older bows.

[Bobaru]

The nice thing about getting a Samick Sage is that new limbs are only $ 75.00.  I'm guessing after a new shooter gets to liking shooting a 30# Sage, they will want hunting weight limbs.  So, the initial purchase is about $ 140.00 and a second set of limbs are about $ 75.00 bringing the total to $ 215.00.  Not bad.

I picked up a Samick Journey as a back-up bow for a trip in 2014.  That's a 64" version of the Sage (Sage is 62").  When my Brackenbury didn't show up, I hunted the Journey and found it every bit as easy to shoot, and effective as the Brackenbury.

Now, I have 7 bows, two customs (Brack & Blacktail), two "production" bows (Howett Hunter & Wing Swift Wing), and several Samick bows.  Yet, I find my Samick Journey easiest to shoot, and I have been successful with it.

Hope that helps.

[Brock]

I am going against the popular answer and always recommend a nice vintage Bear, Browning, Ben Pearson, Herter, Howatt, etc...

You can get a very nice vintage bow with straight limbs and good tips without significant wear or tear on overall finish for $100-175 frequently.  Especially in classifieds here or over at RMS Archery Gear.

Plus the tradition, feel and history of that bow will be more than the asian imports can offer and the bow will not lose value as long as you take care of it as it is already at its USED PRICE.  Additionally, you save another piece of history from a detrimental existence in a closet, hot attic, garage filled with junk or pawn shop to be thrown aside unwanted.

The vintage bows give nothing up in shootability and performance to the modern bows in most cases...at least nothing noticeable and many such as Browning Wasp will surprised many a shooter in its ability to cast an arrow.

I also agree to stay in the 40-45# range for a beginner...35# up if small framed female or youth.  Then hang on to the bow so you can share it with someone else in future...Plus your FIRST custom or vintage bow is always special.

Good luck....again I recommend buying a bow with some soul and history.

[Rob DiStefano]

since these will instructional bows, any cheap asian 3pc recurve will be fine, 35# is perfect for an adult, and 30# for a teenager.  you want as long a set of limbs as possible.  the riser wood and glass color has no bearing - holding weight, limb length and price are paramount.  

you want the arrow to lie on the riser as close to the bow hand as possible, so ditch any stick-on elevated rest, put a velcro rug rest on the shelf and a piece of electrical tape as the arrow pressure plate.  if the riser shelf isn't arc'd, put a 1/8" square piece of match stick or leather under the velcro rug right under the handle cut out, to allow hi-point for the arrow to ride on.

far, Far, FAR more important than the bow will be the arrow and it should be carbon, because alum and wood won't take beginner abuse all that well.  four 500 spine arrows in 27", 28" and 29" lengths, each with 5" full helical feathers.  have on hand screw-in field tips in 100, 150 and 200 grains.

that oughta do well for starters.

[Bud B.]

I agree with the Samick starters and weight. Rob has a good plan, but I would go 600 carbons full length (30.5, I think, for GT Trads) on the arrow selection side. Lots of good arrows in 600 are out there for a good price. Length of the arrow won't matter much for beginners just trying to develop good form before developing accuracy.

An advantage to the new Samicks over vintage bows is warranty.

[dbd870]

Now I was transitioning from a compound and had shoot recurves in the distant past so after that disclaimer: I had a 45# Grizzly and a 35# Ben Pearson Collegian to start off with; I shot the Grizzly much better. I think the little heavier bow helps with pulling the string off your finger more cleanly.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by dbd870:
Now I was transitioning from a compound and had shoot recurves in the distant past so after that disclaimer: I had a 45# Grizzly and a 35# Ben Pearson Collegian to start off with; I shot the Grizzly much better. I think the little heavier bow helps with pulling the string off your finger more cleanly.

these are training bows and not necessarily shooting bows.  what holding weight to use has lots to do with the shooter and their background, if any, in archery.  many a poor shooter has been baffled for decades by starting off with too heavy a holding weight.  learning the principles of form as they applies to trad bowhuntunt are most important.

[LoneWolf73]

Low poundage Vintage bows hands down. Quality bows you can always get your money back on when you sell.