Looking for advice on arrow

[Bill from NJ]

Seriously, I am seeking expert advice. hence the questions posted below.

I have done much research in looking for answers to my questions. It seems the more I read, and ask of folks, the more confused I get. I fully understand the old adage, ask 10 bowhunters the same question, you will get 12 different answers.

This topic has been beaten to death in different posts thru the years, but….here it is again. Please bear with me.

Brief background information:

R/D Longbow: 45# @ 28"  
Personal draw length: 28"
String: 15 Strand Fast flight plus.(Yes not a typo, it is 15)
Looking to use, dare I use the "C" word here… Carbon.
My choice of Broadhead:Will be using Zwickey; either Delta (170 gr.) -No mercy (165 gr.) -Eskimo (160gr.),
or Cliff Zwickey (175 gr.)
If using 11 to 12 GPI I should be in the neighborhood of 495 - 540 gr. arrow.
Arrow of choice: I would like to have a low or close to 500gr. arrow as possible. I was hoping this range would give me the best of weight and flight charactoristics.

My needs are: Having complete pass through at best.
Max distance shooting at Deer/Black Bear: 25 yards Max. I personally never shoot at any game past 20 yards.

I have used wood arrows in the past, recently I've thought I would slowly join the 21st century and use carbon arrows this go around.

The carbon arrow market is too damn confusing, hence the hat in hand outreach I am asking here.

I would like to get the best brand arrow possible.  My main priority is durability and quality.

As for using Carbon arrows, have been seriously looking at Easton AXIS Traditional arrows, Easton Traditional Only, and Gold Tip Classic.

I will get a Test Kit first. So, I need your input on arrow brand. I have a collection of field points ranging from 125 thru 300 Gr. to assist me in zeroing in on what flies best.

I am also confused with all of the different arrow weighting set ups there are available. Break off inserts, tube inserts, etc., blah, blah, blah. Any info given on this subject will be appreciated as well.

In the long run I think I might have a light 500 carbon, or a heavy 400 carbon arrow to shoot.
On using the information I supplied above, what would you recommend to me to shoot from my 45# ?

Again, I believe just into the low 500 grain arena, would boost my confidence in knowing I should have clean pass throughs using my broad head selection.

Any and all advice given would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Bill from NJ

[Biathlonman]

Get a dozen Gold Tip Traditional blems in .500 spine and you should be good.  Might have to add a 50 grain brass insert.

[Cavscout9753]

Give this a try:
 https://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator-from-3rivers-archery.html

A word of caution - enter the exact info, don't pad the stats or cook the books. Stu Miller's has always had great reviews as well, but I haven't used it, just this one with good success.
I dislike carbon arrows, for several reasons, but the only one that applies to this situation is the fact that carbon will stiffen up FAST by cutting. Like, 1/8" can change your world from good to bad in a hurry. I second the Gold Tip blems, Big Jim usually sells them and the term "blem" is silly since most of the ones I've seen aren't "blemmed" hardly at all.
All those different weights are just that, different ways to add tip weight without limiting the broadhead choice. Generally speaking anything that specifically says Easton is for their brand, but most others are just options. Weighted inserts, weights to screw on/clip off your insert, etc. Pick your poison. But a test kit of arrows and a test kit of tips is a good thing to have laying around. Biathlonman is right on, .500 spine is where you should be. How short you cut it will be based off how much weight you want out front. Bear in mind, 200-250 grain tips is not uncommon these days. Going from wood to carbon 2 things will be noticable, the center shot due to the skinnier shaft and the nock fit. Tuning a crabon nock to the string is integral in my book. Get the test kits (arrow and tip) and use the spine calculator to figure out where to start. Once you have it all dialed in you can choose which shafts you want to shoot and how you want to get to whatever tip weight you end up with. Word of caution - patience. Carbon is a great arrow material, but if you get lost in all the possible directions you can go it'll get crazy in a hurry.

[Possum Head]

Yep as others said 35-55 GT will do great and dont get in a hurry to cut them. try your desired weight broadhead first, you just may decide to leave them as they are.

[JARHEAD1371]

One thing I like about the GT size carbons are the internal weights you can add to the back of the insert. Personally, I pick what broadhead I want to hunt with and go from there. I use the same weight field point and if that calculated total weight of the arrow is too light you can add the weights to the insert. Start with the full length shaft and cut only 1/8" of at a time. I use low temp hot melt glue and simply heat the field point for a few seconds to remove the insert. Once you find the length/weight combo that works for you, then cut the rest of the shafts to match the test shaft. I always write down what point weight and insert weight works, that way I can make new shafts in the future without having to remove an insert to find out what weights are installed.

I have shot cedars and I changed to carbon several years ago. I love the look of cedars but I love the toughness of carbons more.

[Bill from NJ]

Thank you gentlemen for your expertise and guidance.

I was under the impression I could move into the 400 series carbon and shoot heavy weights.

So, after listening to your advice, I will play around with the 500 series and see where it leads me.


Semper Fi, Marine.

Bill

Sergeant of Marines.
74-82
Grunt: 0311
DI/PISC: 8511

[tracker12]

Finding the perfect arrow is a true science.  I never realized how much a badly tuned arrow can effect your shooting.  When you get it right it's a great thing to watch that perfect flight.  Good luck on your search.  I shoot mostly at around 45# and can use either  500 or 400 spine depending how much weight I want up front and how long I want the arrow to be.

[John3]

Never settle for anything less than perfect broadhead arrow flight...!  Spend the time to get it perfect.

Gold Tips work and are tough!  Buy a dozen of both 50 and 100 grain brass inserts.  Check the spine charts for a starting point then cut and glue up a BARE shaft with a regular insert and one with a 50 and a 100 grain insert.  Bare shaft them.  One of them will be close.  Cut the shaft or add/remove weight etc...  Remember for a RH archer a bare shaft nock left is weak spine.  Nock right is stiff... Never accept any nock left..! Some archers have a bit of nock right that they can't tune out. Get close as possible then a longer broadhead on the tip with fletched arrow will fly well...

[McDave]

R/D longbow (Toelke Lynx) 45# @ 28". 28" draw length.  Perfectly tuned with 5575 GT Trad (400 spine) cut to 29" with a 200 grain point.  Arrow weight: 500 grains.  I've learned from experience that in arrow tuning, YMMV, but at least it's a start.

Sgt. of Marines, 2d bn, 9th Marines, FO, 81mm mortars, RVN, 65-66.