Author Topic: Homemade broadheads (Read 2573 times)

fujimo · « **Reply #20 on:** March 22, 2016, 10:08:00 PM »

cool tool!
in fact i thought it was the one from lee valley
guess they make something similar

very nice broadheads sir
guess you wont be shooting any flying shots at pheasants with them!!

RGKulas · « **Reply #21 on:** March 23, 2016, 06:30:00 AM »

No, these heads are meant for WI Black Bear. And perhaps Deer.

highlow · « **Reply #22 on:** March 23, 2016, 07:13:00 AM »

Those are great looking heads RG. You might have a second career in the making.

RGKulas · « **Reply #23 on:** March 23, 2016, 08:01:00 AM »

I already have 2 and that's enough for any person.

black velvet · « **Reply #24 on:** March 23, 2016, 11:05:00 AM »

I need a Stay Sharp. Where can I get one?

johnnyk71 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 24, 2016, 11:46:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by black velvet:
I need a Stay Sharp. Where can I get one?

+1

Dogboy900 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 25, 2016, 03:33:00 AM »

Just watched the video and had a quick google.
http://staysharpguide.com/

Steve Kendrot · « **Reply #27 on:** March 25, 2016, 07:02:00 AM »

Looks like a plastic version of the KME Broadhead Sharpener. Same principle anyways. Just a heads up.... This thread may not sit well with the mods if you aren't a sponsor.

RGKulas · « **Reply #28 on:** April 04, 2016, 07:58:00 AM »

I wanted a little lighter version for the bear hunt broadhead so I switched from the re-shaped, steel, field points to aluminum adapters.

Since they are aluminum I can use a micro saw and a Dremmel tool to cut the slots.

Then it was back to the saw blade

I used my broadhead sharpening guide to make the single bevel.

I will use J.B. Weld in the slot cut in the adapter to fuse the blade and I will peen over the tip of the adapter in the hole in the blade to further trap the blade on the adapter. The J.B. Weld and eventual paint will have the final broadhead around 180 grains. Here is a video of the fit up before fusing the parts.

Russ Clagett · « **Reply #29 on:** April 04, 2016, 01:29:00 PM »

Wow....

Russ Clagett · « **Reply #30 on:** April 04, 2016, 01:44:00 PM »

So..do you guys take the head off to sharpen it..then remount it?

newhouse114 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 04, 2016, 02:20:00 PM »

RGKulas
what do you use to cut out your blades from the saw blade?

RGKulas · « **Reply #32 on:** April 04, 2016, 02:30:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Russ Clagett:
So..do you guys take the head off to sharpen it..then remount it?

No, I will fuse the blade to the ferrule using peening (at the tip) and J.B. Weld and will sharpen and re-sharpen from then on with the ferrule in place.

RGKulas · « **Reply #33 on:** April 04, 2016, 02:32:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by newhouse114:
RGKulas
what do you use to cut out your blades from the saw blade?

Dremmel tool with the large high speed cut-off discs (mesh reinforced). It does an outstanding job and does not overheat the metal and cuts great lines (if you have a steady hand) I cut out 7 heads with two discs.

tippit · « **Reply #34 on:** April 05, 2016, 12:19:00 AM »

I forge mine with an intragal tang (all one piece) that fits into a carbon shaft...tippit

BAPilot2 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 05, 2016, 02:42:00 AM »

What is the blade edge angle, in degrees, with your Stay Sharp tool? 20, 25, degrees??? I'd like to know.

Thanks

RGKulas · « **Reply #36 on:** April 05, 2016, 07:09:00 AM »

For fixed blade heads its 22 degrees, for replaceable blades its 19 degrees. There are 2 diff. versions of the broadhead sharpening guide depending on whether you used fixed blade broadheads or replacable blades.

RGKulas · « **Reply #37 on:** April 06, 2016, 07:26:00 AM »

The first head is fused to the threaded adapter with J.B. Weld and by peening the tip closed in the hole in the blade. Then it was primed and painted.

In the universe of possible colors for broadheads, Ive always felt that glossy plum has been under-utilized. I hope to rectify that. Who knows, it might catch on. I took an indoor and an outdoor photo and you would think they were two different broadheads based on how the colors seem to have changed based on the lighting.

I calculated exactly just how much J.B. Weld and how much purple paint would be needed to get the head to exactly 180 grains....................... Nah, I just got lucky. The goal was 180 grains but I didn't think I would hit it spot on. Its better to be lucky than good. Now I just need to make a few more.

BenBow · « **Reply #38 on:** April 06, 2016, 09:04:00 AM »

Looks like you sharpened the back sides of the blade. Nice work. It would be nice to find aluminum adapters that were smooth to help pene:tration.

RGKulas · « **Reply #39 on:** April 06, 2016, 03:40:00 PM »

Ive been getting the same question via pm.

By peening, I mean Im squashing the split tip of the alum adapter into the hole in the blade. Im bending the adapter tips together (along with J.B. Weld) to trap the blade onto the ferrule so it cant be pulled off the adapter. It sure as heck cant be pushed through but if I were to hit a tree and wanted to pull the head I don't want the blade to pull off the adapter so I smashed the tip ala Fred Bear stainless blue broadheads.


LEFT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS	TRAD GANG CLASSIFIEDS ACCESS	RIGHT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS

News:

Author Topic: Homemade broadheads (Read 2573 times)

Users currently browsing this topic: