Confirmation on brace height measurement

[Dan A]

Ok, I know just slap being paranoid now.

Just want to make sure everything is right and with no traditional archery shops around nor any friends who shoot traditional, you guys have become my surrogate brotherhood.

So I set my brace height by using a bow square measuring from the string to the deepest part of the grip on the bow. This is correct right?

Some Internet pages pose the measurement some other ways but many if not most seem to say do it the way I did.

Just want to check and be sure.

[wingnut]

Yep that's it.

Mike

[Dan A]

Thanks Mike!

[dbd870]

Don't be afraid to experiment a bit either. You may find a half inch makes a big difference.

[Dan A]

Yes sir, I am going to play with it some.

Ok she's a shooting much better already now and I am no longer getting arm slap. Seems to be thumping the target with a good deal more force as well.

So bow calls for 7.5" to 8.5" and I have her setting on 8" right now. When she came through the door she was sporting just a hair over 7.

Groups immediately looking better and look just as good right now as my right handed shots were so thinking this was the right move to go from a right handed bow to a left handed.

Now I will play with the nock point. It was set 1/2" below the shelf when I got it. Shooting her now without a nock point trying to find the sweet spot.

Fairly quiet bow and not too bad but I can already tell after shooting the right handed custom I had bought and comparing it to this bow, there is something nice about those customs.

Thanks everyone.

[Msturm]

This video is by a guy here on the site, his name is Clay Hayes. He has great information.  Fast forward this video to about 5:55 and watch him tie on a simple nocking point. This type of nocking point allows you to move it up and down with a few twists.  It works really well and makes tuning much easier.

Sturm.
 

[Dan A]

Thanks Sturm, I'll go out there and give it a watch. Appreciate the heads up on it.

[Orion]

Sounds like someone just threw a string on that bow that was made for another bow.  Brace height was way off, and a nock point a half inch below the shelf simply won't work.  Might start a half to 5/8-inch above the shelf.

[old_goat2]

Set your nock at 5\\8" as a starting point, I've got a slug of bows in the house and that's worked for every one of them shooting with split finger. Once you have the sweet spot figured out for your brace height nock an arrow and make a mark on it where it meets the shelf, probably should do it with all your arrows, not just one, that way you can check your brace every time you go out shooting by simply looking at your nocked arrow.

[Dan A]

Thanks guys!

Last weekend was just getting the bow up and running where I could shoot it some.

This weekend I plan to play around with nock point height and brace height since I now feel comfortable doing all that. Was a good learning experience that was intimidating at first never having done it before but now I know its all simple and easy.

My only question is, will I be able to tell anything by moving the nock point and brace height around. Don't think I shoot good enough to be able to tell with better groups. Still to new to this.

Thanks again everyone!

[longstiks]

When adjusting brace height and nock point only do one at a time or it can get confusing.
Denny

[Keith Zimmerman]

Most of my longbows are around 7in.  My recurves are around 8in.  Except my Widows...they are 8 3/4in.  I generally find I prefer a slightly higher brace than usually recommended.