How much to cut

[Blessed One]

I have started over once again with my arrows. This is a pretty consistent bare shaft result, how much should I cut to start 1/4 or 1/2 inch

 

[Phillip Fields]

1/8"

[Blessed One]

just curious will an 1/8" make that much of a difference. The arrow that is kicked up more had a tip that is 50grains more. if I cut it more will this come down or just stick with the lighter tip? Thanks for your help.

[Pete McMiller]

When bare shafting, start with the weight up front that you want and trim slowly.  The reason the nock on the one arrow is higher doesn't have anything to do with the weight on the tip - it is either a bad release or your nocking point is too high.

I assume you are right handed?  Also, you didn't indicate how far the shot is. if it is 20 yds., no more than an 1/8th if 10 you might be ok with 1/4".  Go slow, cutting an arrow down has a lot of effect on spine.

When I start with full length shafts and my bare shaft groups are 10" from center I will start with 1/2" cut and see how far it moves the group.  After a cut or two I'll be down to 1/8" at a time.  At the end when I am just fine tuning I'll cut 1/16" at a time.

[Phillip Fields]

When I get close I cut in 1/8" increments, particularly when dealing with carbon arrows. I have seen some pretty big changes with a 1/4" cut and since I can't add length back I use the smaller cut. Remember that fletching will slightly stiffen the shaft, so you want the unfletched shaft to show slightly weak and nock high.

[Blessed One]

great help thank you so much. looks like the 260grain heads may be the ticket.

[Gil]

You mean to say you tried to baershaft test with different point weights?

[Blessed One]

yes I got some 300 grain broadheads I would like to keep shooting and the other is 260 grains. I have done the test with both being 260 and both being 300 and they hit about the same, but the 300 kicks up more. I am thinking about just sticking with the 260 grains up front. This is my first try at bareshafting and difference is 40 grains up front.

[BWD]

Originally posted by Phillip Fields:
When I get close I cut in 1/8" increments, particularly when dealing with carbon arrows. I have seen some pretty big changes with a 1/4" cut and since I can't add length back I use the smaller cut. Remember that fletching will slightly stiffen the shaft, so you want the unfletched shaft to show slightly weak and nock high.

This^. If I don't leave my bareshafts slightly weak, my fletched arrows will impact stiff. But then again, that's just me.

[McDave]

I get more precise results if I fletch my bare shafts and then trim the feathers off down to the quill.  The weight of the quill and glue stiffens the shaft a little, and makes the spine closer to your fletched shafts.  It's interesting that if you're pretty close to tuned, the quill and glue on the back are enough to stabilize the arrow after about 20 yards, so you don't really get accurate bare shaft results past that distance.  But since I bare shaft tune at about 10 yards, that doesn't matter to me other than noticing that it happens.

[katman]

1/4" is probably all your going to need with that group if its a 20 yd shot. I would start at 1/8" then drop to 1/16" when getting close. Depending on your bows center shot once tuned I bet you could shoot both the 260 and 300 gr points if its cut to center or past. Verify with broad heads and field points out to 30 yds if you can.

[Blessed One]

Thank you guys ended up at a 1/4 inch off and hit same height and just right of the line. Now for the first time my broadheads and fp's are hitting in the same place. I have been shooting arrows that were not right and always having flyers. Last night was the best I have ever shot. I realized the wrong arrows were requiring me to adjust my shooting form to get the right and left on. I have always been pretty good up and down. This bareshafting could have saved me a lot of frustration if I had started with this. Glad I started over.