Carbon shaft selection?

[Justin S.]

Hey y'all. I'm new here and I just got my first recurve about two months ago. I want to order new shafts to hunt with. My bow is 38@28" and I'm drawing 30". My arrows are 31" long. I'm shooting 500 spine beman centershots now with 75 grain inserts and 125 grain points. Should I stay with 500's or go up to 400's?
Thanks

Stay with .500's! There is almost no way possible, short of about 300-400gr up front to make a .400 work with a 44ish# draw weight.

Bisch

[Doug_K]

According to Stu's calculator, assuming a center shot recurve, and a beman center shot at those specs, a 31" 400 spine with a 150 tip instead of a 125 would be within a #. That said, you wont know till you try it in the real world. Personal form obviously being a factor.

Personally my 43#@28 Kodiak magnum shoots 29" 500 (Goldtip hunter) with about 175ish up front. Closest I got to compare.
BUT! Bisch has gotta know what he's talking about better than I!

Idk if I know what I'm talking about or not, but for me with my 50# bow (29"DL), if I go to .400, I have to leave it at 32" and put 250gr up front. I would think that number would be quite a bit higher with 7# less draw weight??? But who knows with that extra inch of draw?

Bisch

[Justin S.]

Thanks guys. I stayed with the 500's.

[bigbuckmalik]

I have a Bob Lee with the same specs and same draw length. I am shooting axis 700's with 125 up front now. They bareshaft a little weak. A 600 with 175-200 up front bareshaft good. My opinion is you are still gonna be stiff with a 500

[Longtoke]

i would also hazard to guess you would be closer to 600 than 400

[Justin S.]

I bare shafted them today. Tried 100,125,145, and 200 grain points. Local shop didn't have any 175's. I was getting nick right with all of them except the 200's. They are flying great. Seems like the should be weak with the 75 grain brass insert and a 200 grain point by the charts.

[dbd870]

Not surprised, my 45-50# bows need 200 up front with a 500 arrow. Now mine are cut 30.5"

[the rifleman]

Not sure what the centershot of your bow is, but my Whip that is in the low 40s needs full length 600 s w 200 grs up front.  I have an older Whip w/o the HS limbs that is 43 ( I pull 40) that found those carbon 600s too stiff.  I am using 1716s in that bow.  How a bow is cut center wise has a great impact on the arrow.  Unless your bow is cut very deeply I'll bet you need 600s or even lighter spine.

[BWallace10327]

Originally posted by Bisch:
Stay with .500's! There is almost no way possible, short of about 300-400gr up front to make a .400 work with a 44ish# draw weight.

Bisch

Sometimes there are exceptions.  My PMA draws 43#@29", I draw it 29" and a Gold Tip 30" Gold Tip traditional 400 (5575) bare shafts perfectly.  It doesn't hurt to experiment.  The 3 Rivers spine calculator has worked for me on many occasions.

[smokin joe]

It sort of depends on the bow and your other arrow components. I have a 43# at 29" Centaur (a naturally fast bow) and one arrow formula that bare shafts perfectly out of it is this:

-- GT Velocity 400 shaft at 30"
-- glue-in-glue-on nock adapter
-- Bohning Classic 5/16 nock
-- 9" Onestringer wrap
-- 3 - 5" feathers
-- 125 grain glue-in-glue-on brass point adapter
-- carbon collar
-- 125 gr point
This makes a 525 grain arrow.

I can make a 500 spine arrow that works perfectly too by going down to 29.5" length in a 3-rivers shaft and using a 75 gr point adaptor -- with everything else the same. This makes a 490 grain arrow.

The weight of the components will have a heck of a lot of bearing on how the arrow shaft behaves.