How do I choose flu flu arrows?

[archer66]

How do I know which flu flu arrows I need?  I'm going to use them to shoot grouse and other small game.

[Pine]

Nice thing about them is , the spine weight isn't as critical .
But you should still use the same spine weight as your regular arrows .
Also wouldn't hurt to get as heavy an arrow that you can shoot because they die off fast after about 15 yards .

[Longtoke]

Not much to it, just put really big feathers on your old arrows.

[Mitch Edwards]

I wrap a full length feather around the shaft for mine and you can kinda control the distance by the diameter of the fletching. This maybe common knowledge if so sorry. I like my feather to be about 3/4" tall instead of an inch plus or whatever they are naturally. I get a bit more range and a bit less noise that way. As far as shafts I use whatever I've got. So long as your not shooting a 30-35 woody out of a 70# bow. That could be bad

[Snow Crow]

Keep in mind that there are different styles (uncut/normally fletched, spiral, hybrid types) of flu flus, and the performance of each depends on feather height, length and number as well as draw weight and arrow weight.

You can and should customize your flu flus to provide the performance you need for your specific application.

EDIT: Flight performance data on several types of flu flu I've tested are in this thread--  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=143143;p=3  .

HTH

[ChuckC]

As stated by Crow, there are different styles.  I suggest you figure what you need in terms if performance, then over time test different varieties before you buy numerous flu-flus.  

I had issues using the full blown four feather flu flus for geese because they almost didn't make it to the geese.  

You need enough energy left at your yardage to so something.  If you  need to shoot ten yards, you do not need an arrow that will go 120 yards, but if you are shooting geese at maybe 40, there will be nothing left to do any damage if your arrows stop short.  The right tool for the job is needed.  You get this by experimenting.
ChuckC

[archer66]

Thanks!!!   Much appreciated.

[Red Beastmaster]

Since I only need flu flus for squirrel hunting I just added big feathers between my regular fletching. The arrows are my old woodies that may have been broken at the tip and not suitable for anything else. The blunts are .38 shell casings.

I consider these arrows to be expendable and don't get too worried if I don't find all of them after a barrage into the tree tops. I've got a whole bucket full to pass around with the guys. We hunt squirrels using the Target Saturation Method!  

I just take a few of the shafts I use for everything else and fletch them with FluFlu feathers.

Bisch

[ChuckC]

Actually, depending upon how far you want them to go, you might even try three or four fletch using 5 1/2" or larger high back feathers, bananas come to mind. Some are huge and impart the first degree of parachutism (?huh) to your arrows, then adjust from there to meet your needs by adding more or bigger fletch patterns.
ChuckC

[monterey]

I use the the full length spiral type.  

There are different ways to apply them.  You can wind them with the spirals close together or spread out.  I have found that close together gives better flight whereas more spread out causes a rotation of the nock end of the arrow.

You can also reverse the spiral by starting down the shaft and turning it towards the nock or vicey versey.  

Another trick is to wind them on with the underside of the feather facing either towards the nock or the point.  All else being equal, the underside towards the point will slow the arrow a bit faster.

Probably none of it matters much unless you are wing shooting geese like Chuck.

[stagetek]

In my opinion spine isn't a big issue with flu-flu's. Close counts.