High GPI 600's or (Re)Discovering Aluminum Arrow Shafts

[Pokerdaddy]

Can anyone tell me of some heavier gpi carbon shafts in 600 spine?

I'm tuning up a new Northern Mist Superior that is 47@28 (roughly 49@29).  I'd like to find some 600's that I can get a finished arrow of around 475-500.

With GT Trad 15/35's (600's) I'm coming up with a lighter arrow and with my GT Trad 35/55's (500) I end up getting really heavy to get them weak enough.

Thoughts?

[jamesh76]

GT Traditional Classics are 9 gpi in 600 spine

[Alexander Traditional]

Look into the Byron Ferguson heavy hunter.

[M60gunner]

Yes, I see the new "heavy hunters" come on 600 spine.

[Rick Butler]

These are pricey but I'm sure you can make them work.  I bought the 500's at Kzoo, pretty pleased with them.
 http://www.3riversarchery.com/byron-ferguson-penthalon-heavy-hunter-carbon-shafts-new-model.html

[awbowman]

CE Heritage 90s are heavier than the GTs AND not nearly as expensive as the Heavy Hitters.  Very tough arrows too

[Pokerdaddy]

Thanks guys!  Did a little more tuning tonight and was pleasantly surprised that I could up my point weight on the GT 15/35 to 200 taking my overall arrow weight to 485 and flying like lasers!

I'm amazed how great these 15/35's are working with 49 lbs of draw weight.

[Bow man]

Andrew Jim Pyle (JP Enterprises) has has the Easton Traditionals 600 spines Great arrows fly great. I had him add some weight tubes to up the arrow weight.
Or Look at the Carbon Express 90's I think Jeff at Emerald has them

[Pokerdaddy]

Thanks David!

[BWD]

My GT trad/blems come in around 480ish, with an aluminum insert and a 200gr point. They come in at 505ish with 225 gr. points.

[damascusdave]

Way simpler to just shoot 1916

DDave

[Pokerdaddy]

Big thanks to everyone for their input, but especially damascusdave!  I picked up a dozen 1916's cut to 29.5", fletched them and put 175 and 200 up front on a few.  WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

Again, I was looking to find the right arrow setup for a new Northern Mist Superior 47@28 (49@29).  Of course, the Superior is cut far from center...most all my bows are near, at or past center.  In the past I've had great luck tuning up carbons but was banging my head against the proverbial wall on this one.  

No matter how weak I made the carbons I was impacting left of POA.  Reading some other threads I saw others that were having similar issues, with some members chiming in the carbons, rather than bending AROUND the riser, were bouncing OFF the riser, even when tuned hyper weak.

Well, whether any of that is true or not I don't know.  What I do know is that this bow with these 1916 arrows is shooting lights out!!!  Just beautiful arrow flight and tiny groups at 15 and 20 yards, right on point of aim!

This is making me rethink every Hill style or mild r/d bow with a far from center shelf that I grew frustrated with and eventually sold.  It wasn't that I couldn't shoot them (though that point is debatable) but that I didn't find the right arrow before giving up.

Man, this stuff is FUN!  Sometimes frustrating, but so much fun!

[damascusdave]

I am always amazed when my advice works out...glad it did this time...having got serious about bowhunting with a wheel bow back in the nineties and having worked in an archery shop back then aluminum is what I know best...it is not always the answer but it is often the answer...a friend and I are the Canadian distributors for some great carbon arrows...a while ago I took a few dozen to a local archery shop to see if he was interested...he agreed to try to sell some...that shop has a Technohunt setup and I enjoy shooting that game very much...I went out and got my new to me Habu out of the truck along with a couple of 2317 Super Slams with DART points...the owner laughed when I came in about getting him to sell carbon arrows when I was shooting aluminum...my answer was simple, "I shoot what works"...those 2317's have been with me for over 20 years and they are like old friends

DDave