POC and Quiver advice

[John Wesley]

I have a few questions. It's been a few years since I've been able to shoot/hunt much. About to order new arrows. I usually use POC from 3riversarchery. Want to know everyones thoughts on it compared to other shafts. Was looking at douglas fir but I don't have a grinder taper. Only the ones like a pencil sharpener. As far as consistency goes is the Douglas fir better? I've hear good things about surewood. And will I be able to taper the shafts with the taper tool I have.

Second questions is about quivers. I like a back quiver my friend made from a coon hide I had for practice/small game hunting and use a boa quiver for broadheads. I was thinking of trying the asbell or great northern side quivers for broadheads. I like a lot of arrows. Usually carry 6 broadhead and at least 6 small game. Does anyone use a side quiver back quiver combo or would it be awkward having two quivers slung around me? Or should I just stick with the boa? I like the boa quiver but would like to stop using one because I like my my bow light weight as I like roving around a lot

[Biathlonman]

I like Surewood a lot better then any POC Ive found.  I usually just pay the few extra dollars and have them do the tapering for me.

[Red Beastmaster]

I made a large back quiver for squirrel hunting that easily holds two dozen flu-flus. Wearing two quivers doesn't sound very practical.

I haven't bought wood shafts for several years, no help on that.

[Longtoke]

Could try using a piece of leather to make a divider for your back quiver and keep BH on half and blunts on the other.

I would use a small bow quiver for BH and the back quiver before I would strap 2 quivers to myself, but thats just me.


  In the end though you are going to have to play around with them and see what works for you personally.

[Rough Run]

I got some POC from 3 Rivers about 3 months ago - great as far as grain and spine, but 40 gr weight variation among the dozen.  Got some spruce from Hildebrand last month, and only 6gr variation, on gorgeous shafts.  Newbie to woodies, so I haven't used Surewoods yet, they are next.

No useful opinion on the quivers - I am a 4-5 arrow bow quiver user.

[slowbowjoe]

Yes, Surewoods/Doug Fir make a stronger, more reliable shaft. Yes, hand held sharpeners can work ( they're all I have so far, and have turned out several dozen good sets). Not ideal, but they'll work, if you're careful.

Can't say about the quiver. I get by with a back quiver or side quiver, and just enough arrows for whatever I'm doing. I think carrying two quivers would be more of a pain than a help.

[Orion]

No doubt Surewood Doug Fir shafts are best quality.  Doug fir is a bit more durable than POC and generally runs a bit heavier.  There is still some good POC around, and I still use it, too.

If you want to carry a dozen arrows, a back quiver is probably the best way to do it. Two separate quivers would be a hassle.

[John Wesley]

Ok thanks. Thats kinda what I was think about having two quivers. I think I'll just stick with the strap on. And I think I'll give Doug Fir a try. It's not too much more expinsive and sounds like it's worth going to

[Gordon Jabben]

Taper tool works on doug fur for me.

[John Wesley]

Longtoke you said something about a divider. Is carrying broadheads in a back Quiver dificult? I'd be worried about the blades dulling or cutting the quiver open. I have thought about it tho. The quivers I've found online Are a little pricey for me. I have thought about a coyote fur quiver lined with beaver to reinforcethe sides and help silence the arrows durring travel. If I did that what would I use for the bottom to keep the broadheads frome coming thru the bottom?

[Surewood Steve]

The taper tools with the razor blades will work, if you keep a very sharp blade in them and are careful.  The results from a sanding disc are better and can be done faster if you have the right set up.  Don't let that scare you from trying Fir.  Steve

[Longtoke]

Originally posted by John Wesley:
Longtoke you said something about a divider. Is carrying broadheads in a back Quiver dificult? I'd be worried about the blades dulling or cutting the quiver open. I have thought about it tho. The quivers I've found online Are a little pricey for me. I have thought about a coyote fur quiver lined with beaver to reinforcethe sides and help silence the arrows durring travel. If I did that what would I use for the bottom to keep the broadheads frome coming thru the bottom?

I have a hill style quiver that I use with BHs no problem.  The hill style quiver is also very quite as the leather in the middle is collapsed and holds the shafts semi tight against your back.

Many like the added protection of leather BH covers. I think an extra piece of leather in the bottom or maybe a slice off a yoga block would work well too.


Back quivers are kind of pricy but its mostly because leather is pricey. It is also something you will likely only need to buy once in your lifetime if you get a quality one.

I would recommend the hill style quiver made by a sponsor here named Soapcreek. His quivers are not much more than the cost of materials would be, hard to beat that.

[John Wesley]

Thanks Longtoke. I'll be sure to look into it. I have a design in mind a may try when I get some furs together. I was thinking of finding some foam but i didn't think of a yoga block. That sounds like it would work just fine

[Muttly]

Yoga block?
What is this yoga block of which you speak?

[John Wesley]

Muttly they are a block of foam that people use in yoga to help hold positions. They are around 9x6x4. You could cut them to sizez. Something I'm gonna at least give a try

[two4hooking]

Hill Style Back quiver sounds like your ticket.  Get a well made one from someone who shoots a longbow.  American Leathers, Howard Hill archery, Northern Mist ect.

[Muttly]

Little late getting back to this one.
So what is the best method for making inserts in the foam? Use a broadhead to cut in a slot?
Heat a practice broadhead and melt it in, so to speak? And about how hot, if doing this?

[Yewbender]

Nothing wrong with POC, thats what i use. If you what a lil heavier and tougher wood then Douglas fir. You can straighten them as easy as POC. The hand taper tools will work,i put in a new blade and take my time. If you go to quick while tapering the blade can catch the grain and take a chunk out of the wood. You won't go wrong with either woods.

[Longtoke]

Originally posted by Muttly:
Little late getting back to this one.
So what is the best method for making inserts in the foam? Use a broadhead to cut in a slot?
Heat a practice broadhead and melt it in, so to speak? And about how hot, if doing this?

If thats the route you take I would go about it the same way as a bow quiver insert. Arrange your arrows in the position you wan them then shove them in.

I will say that you loose a bit of the beauty of the back quiver with this method as you will have to carefully insert each arrow  in the foam, which means dismounting the quiver upon every arrow retrieval.


I just use the quiver as is and have never had any trouble with my broadheads poking through.
 I suppose after a while it would happen though. If anything I would just cut a sacrificial piece of leather, or thin slice of yoga block(like 1/4" might be hard to do without a bandsaw) the same size as the bottom and stuff it in there.

   

my hill style quiver, I took the pouch off a long time ago, but it was pretty new in this picture.

Here is the divider
 

and here is how the bottom currently looks after a year of frequent use, although only about 50% of the time with broadheads.