Help me decide broadheads...sticking with the Grizzlies

[DanielB89]

FWIW, I have had broadhead tuning issues in the past, but it was only because of my arrows weren't tuned.  If I bareshaft my arrows and they are flying like darts, it wont matter, period.   I have shot the huge tree sharks on 3-3" feathers.  The simmons interceptor is the a great head and I've never had any problem getting them to fly.  

Michael, I'd bet your WAY over spined remembering you asking about a .300 spined arrow a couple of weeks ago.  I know 2 examples to go by.

1. Curt Cabrera shoots a .340 spine(if I remember correctly) out of a bow around #60 with the big jim 300 grain 3 blade on front.

2.  Chris Spikes shoots around  #62(if I remember correctly) and he also shoots a .340 with a brass insert and the 190 grain tree sharks, so both of those guys are shooting right at 300 grains up front from a #60 bow and are shooting .340's.  

(just thinking out loud here)

[Broken Arrows]

Go with a 3 blade, no more issues!

[Michael Arnette]

Thanks Daniel, I've bareshafted for spine...I don't think my issue is spine I think it has to do with tiller/nock hieght. It's been a problem ever since I switched to 3 under shooting and I think that would explain why they don't fly well horizontally but do vertically. The vertical tune is what I am having trouble with.

[Zradix]

I've tried some big 2 blades..tusker aztec, the big ace etc.
I couldn't get them to fly well either.
I imagine it was my form too...cause in theory any head should fly well if all things are tuned well...including a well tuned form..lol

Anyway... I've more or less decided those big planing surfaces just magnify my mistakes.

So I've switched to a 1 1/8" cut 3 blade.
They don't plane near as much at all.

when you do the math...
1.125"÷2=.5625" (height of each blade)
.5625"x3=1.6875"=1 11/16" of total cutting blade.

so with the tiny 1 1/8" 3-blade head that doesn't seem to plane hardly at all, I'm getting more cutting than the big Byron head (1 19/32").
...not to mention they cost about 1/3 the price.

The tree shark type of design does seem to "tear" darn big holes though through the skin..not sure about the less stretchy parts in the middle.

just food for thought..

to answer your question though...if you like those byron heads and they fly well for ya they'll certainly do the job on deer...

[BrushWolf]

I have killed many deer over the years. Nothing has impressed me more than the Simmons Treesharks. Arrows about 600gr pushed with 47#@ 27" blow right though deer.

[RedShaft]

I can shoot bare shafts to 30 yards and they fly like a lazer beam. (Tweak your tuning more) you need to have good solid form consistency. If not shoot Bigger fletch or 4 fletchings.

You hunting deer n Turks. Shoot a 3 blade woodsman elites or Vpa.
Save the single bevels for hogs. My 2 cents.

[imbowhunt10]

Caleb, you should try the Grizzly Instincts. You will not have any problem getting them scary sharp.

[Mint]

I switched from grizzlies to 3 blades and 4 blades heads because when I hit the shoulder bone I couldn't penetrate with the grizzlies. I figured it was better to put a big hole on marginal shots if I avoided the shoulder. It has worked out well for me since blood trails have been great. I shoot the Palmer Extreme cut broad head currently which is basically an oversized  Muzzy phantom.

[Zradix]

I like the quote Mint.

[DarkTimber]

Don't overthink it Michael.  You've had a heck of a season so far, don't let one blood trail make you re-think things...especially right in the middle of season.   I've had the same thing happen on perfect hits with big 3 blade heads.  No two blood trails are the same and sometimes they just don't make sense.

[Brock]

Got to say it though...if you got poor blood with a Grizzly it was shot placement not the broadhead as I have shot hogs and bear with a Grizzly Kodiak and looked like someone was using a bucket to slosh it around.

That being said....dont over think it too much...but I would find a broadhead you have confidence and use it.  If the broadhead is sharpened properly and put where you intend it to go or very close....and is of stout construction and a proven design...it is going to put the animal down.  

As far as arrow flight...the broadheads have to be on balanced...I spin mine while mounting on wood shafts while the glue sets up with downward pressure.  Then spin test to see if any wobble...if yes, then reheat, reposition and do it again.  Typically I get it the first or second try...

I shoot 190 Ribteks, 200 Grizzly Kodiaks, and the Grizzly Instincts (3 blade)...all fly great.  If I have poor flight it is usually my release not the arrowhead.

Bill Dunn is coming out with a new Grizzly head that will be double bevel...if you have problems getting a proper edge on the single bevels.

Good luck...but personally while the Simmons heads are impressive...the price and shape of the blades are more trouble to sharpen and not worth it to me.  

If I was not shooting and very happy with the Ribteks and Grizzly heads...I would likely go to the TuffHead for my next head.  If I ever run out of my stash of Ribteks...that will be my new double bevel head unless the new Grizzly Double Bevel is all that I think it might be.

Keep em sharp...

[ranger 3]

I bough some Cut throat 200grn and they fly great.

[LittleBen]

I have to say I'm partial to some good old Zwickey Eskimo, or Eskilite.

Yeah I guess they can curl, but they fly great.

[Michael Arnette]

Welp, I'm sticking to my good old grizzlies...I'm just confident with them and have had great results save this one most recent fluke on the doe I mentioned.
I do think I'll keep the Byron heads for turkeys next spring

[Ray Lyon]

Yup. Go with what makes you confident. Good shooting stems from confidence.

So then, what is the theory about why the Ferguson BHs fly better than the Simmons, which they obviously copy?

[Michael Arnette]

They are vented and lower profile

[ozy clint]

Originally posted by Michael Arnette: no way am I shooting a $34 Broadhead [/QB]

i edited your statement to reflect my opinion.

[YosemiteSam]

Originally posted by Archie:
I have had some problems with getting good broadhead flght in the past, even though I was pretty well-turned.  I came up with a theory, and so far it's proven true for me...

The issue is that when the arrow flexes as it comes out of the bow, and since the arrow isn't flying straight until the feathers straighten it out, that wing (broadhead) on the front of the arrow starts catching air and pulls the arrow off in a different direction.  It makes sense that if that "wing" is positioned to cut through the air instead of planing against it, that maybe the broadhead can cut through the air and the arrow can straighten out before going off course.  So, I took a few arrows and a torch out and shot a few.  If the flight wasn't good, I heated the glue, twisted the insert in the shaft about 30°, and tried it again.  Eventually I found a configuration that flew straight.  I then twisted all my inserts to seat the broadhead at the same angle in relation to the cock feather, and I was good to go.  I got great arrow flight out of those arrows.  And since everyone has unique ticks and bad habits and arrow flight quirks, it makes sense that vertically-aligned broadheads work for some, horizontal for others, and various angles in-between for others still.

Lately, all my broadheads seem to fly well no matter how they are positioned, so I haven't had to bother with it.  I am shooting big Zwickey's out of my 68# recurve this season, and they fly just fine.

Agreed on the broadhead positioning.  Shooting Zwickey No Mercy and Grizzly 200s (screw on), I get the best flight when the broadhead is perpendicular to the string.  I'm guessing it's because it's cutting the air vs paddling through it, as you describe.  Impacts are  inconsistent in any other orientation.  With my factory-made arrows, the Grizzlies were very picky about fletching orientation as well -- cock vane in gave better flight.  Why?  Who knows.  Just did.  But when I fletched up some 5" feathers with more helical, suddenly, it quit being an issue.

Can't say I've had all that much experience on penetration.  But a few years ago I took a big doe with my buddy's .243.  The shot went high (hard rest) and didn't leave a spot of blood.  We found her the next morning only 20 yards in the brush with barely a drop coming out of her mouth.  Reason: high lung shot never gave enough time for the blood to fill up her lungs.  Her heart stopped long before the chest could fill up.  The bullet never exited but completely fragmented inside -- making her lungs into mush.  Still, not the slightest blood trail.  I'm guessing that blood trails are more a function of shot placement than projectile width.  Again, just my limited experience in rifle hunting.