Carbon Arrow Insert Removal

[Rough Run]

I could not find anything in a search, so please redirect me or provide any insight!

I am going to make my first forays into shooting carbon arrows, and I don't know how to go about removing inserts for arrow tuning.

I have GT Traditional shafts, and will be using Big Jim's hot melt glue.

Thanks for the help!

[JRY309]

What I do for removing inserts on carbons for tuning is.I'll push in the insert with alittle saran wrap,it will hold the insert in snug enough for shooting and tuning.Pull it out and repeat,no glue needed.You just need to use a softer target like a bag target that doesn't grab the insert/point too tight on arrow removal.You can get them tuned quick and easy without using any heat.I know they make low temp hot melt,but for me I don't use any heat on my carbons.Been doing it this way for many years.

If you are using Big Jim's Quick Stick, just put a field point in the insert and heat the field point with a torch just till its hot enough for the glue to release.

That glue is the best insert glue on the planet!

Bisch

[Rough Run]

If you need/want to remove an insert after gluing it in, say to increase the weight to 50 or 100 gr inserts, how do you remove the insert without damaging the arrow?  

Can you get the glue hot enough by heating a field point while it is installed?  If so, will that method work equally on aluminum & brass inserts?

[Orion]

Yes.  It will work on aluminum and brass inserts.  But be careful that you don't overheat it.  Keep testing as you warm the point by pulling on it with a pliers. You want to remove the insert as soon as the bond breaks  Otherwise, you could heat the shaft too much and damage the carbon.

[the rifleman]

When using big jims you do not need to use too much heat when installing or removing inserts.  And the nice thing about this glue is that the inserts only come out of the arrow when you want them to!  It is great stuff.

[Longtoke]

Originally posted by Bisch:
If you are using Big Jim's Quick Stick, just put a field point in the insert and heat the field point with a torch just till its hot enough for the glue to release.

That glue is the best insert glue on the planet!

Bisch

x2   That glue is good stuff, melts at a low temp but doesnt let loose of your inserts in hot weather.  

I have a small game head that broke off at the threads.  I stuck what was left of the stem in a fresh insert and put a big blob of Jim's hotmelt to hold it in place.  It's still holding strong even after hard hits in cold weather.  

I love it.

[Homey88]

Remove the nock and put a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the circumference of the arrow. Put the drill bit backwards make sure you have a wall or a back stop and raise the arrow overhead and use a fly casting motion, the insert will eventually work its way out. Be careful because the insert and the drill bit can fly out. Make sure you have a safe backstop!

[crazynate]

The bohning blue glue stick works well for this too. And it holds really well. Doesn't take much to heat them up to get them out. Just make sure you Never heat the carbon. Use an insert tool you can get them for about 8 bucks. If you what to try that bohning blue stuff pm me and I'll send you a stick to try. Good luck

[AZ_Longbow]

I use the drill bit method, I put a sock over the insert end and rubber band that bad boy on. Now the insert and bit do not fly off like an missile.

[Rough Run]

Thank you for the feedback!
This has definitely helped.  Now I'm not so nervous about giving it a try.
Thanks!

[The Whittler]

If you know what weight arrow you want to end up with. Get the point weight you want and insert (50gr. 100gr. or regular one that comes with arrows).

Glue inset and just put the point you want. Now just pull out your arrow nock and cut from that end.

[Bud B.]

I use a 3/16 long steel rod and drop it in where the nock goes. It doesn't always work. You can damage the insert if too much force is used and the glue holds well. I need to get some of Big Jim's hot melt. I currently use two part epoxy.

If bare shaft tuning, remove the nock and trim from that end if the glue won't release.