how straight is straight enough

[Hud]

Grain run-out and bare shafts that absorb moisture will not stay straight.  Use the compression method, to straighten shafts them dip in a sealer. You can wrap with clear wrap if you are not finishing them. Lacquer and a clear coat will help keep them straight. Moisture content in wood shafts should be below 8% before sealing. Do not wrap tapered shafts tight, or they will be bent.

[Tajue17]

I straighten them only once!  after that I just keep checking them and usually by the time the season comes around I still have at least 3 that are still looking straight and these are the ones that get the broadheads....those 3 will be in a certain order too based on how good each one shoots and sometimes the last one needs a different broadhead to fly as good as the #1 arrow.

I don't bother with re straightening my arrows over and over again but they usually are not even that bad to bein with because I do try to only buy from places I had the best luck with.

[Brock]

first thing is stop trying to make everything like a carbon arrow...not needed and impossible to achieve with mother nature.  

I work to get all big bends out of shaft...rolling on flat surface to observe high spots that cause wobble.  I either hand straighten or use a compression tool to help flatten the high spots.  THey are never perfect.  Then after staining and sealing...I spin test my arrows to ensure I have broadhead on straight...like a top, not in a spin tool. If it spins like a top with no or very minimal wobble then it is good. If I notice any wobble they get reheated and adjust the fit of the broadhead again...repeat until I notice no wobble when spinning them on flat surface on the broadhead tip.

A wood arrow that is good enough...is more than most will ever need or notice.

That being said, out of a dozen arrows...I will compare them all once done and number them 1-12 with 1 being best.  Shoot accordingly.
keep em sharp,

ron herman

[SuperK]

I use the shank of a screwdriver to straighten my shafts.  I eyeball it and then work on the high spots.  If you take your time you will be surprised with how straight you can get them.  It is VERY IMPORTANT that you start with quality shafts to start with. It don't get any better than douglas fir from Surewood shafts and/or cedar from Wapiti.  When I used to use "bargin shafting" from other places, I would normally get 4 or 5 arrows out of a dozen that would spin true enough for broadheads.  Now with Surewood and Wapiti shafts, they ALL turn out good enough for broadheads.    

I roll wood shafts initially to get them straight and have a roller to target broadheads, to get them straight.  I have never been able to get an aluminum arrow, once bent, to roll flat.   I got a a bunch of old target fiberglass arrows and shafts that were discarded from a college archery program, I was surprised how crooked many of them were, they made good tomato stakes.  I had some chundoo shafts, that had kinks in them, I got them all passable, but they took more work than I was prepared for and a few of them still were not all that good.