Some thoughts on arrow fletching/repairing

[rich k]

These are some tips I learned from years of building and repairing my arrows. Hopefully they will be of some use to you.

Cleaning glue residue from shaft
I have found that a vegetable/potato peeler will cleanglue residue from carbon and aluminum shafts without injuring the surface of the shaft. I have not tried it on woodies. A little alcohol will remove any remaining traces. Be sure to buy another one for the kitchen.

Arrow collars
To help protect carbon, and possibly aluminum, arrow shafts from splitting at the nock end when the arrow strikes something solid, like a rock, it is helpful to add a collar in front of the nock. The commercial ones can be spendy. They also weight about 4 grains. No sure if this impacts arrow flight. I used a piece of wire shrink wrap on a carbon shaft that had split about 1/2 “at the nock end. I was curious to see how well it would work so I did not use any adhesive or epoxy to seal the split, just the shrink tubing. It has held the split together for about 50 shots. So, I purchased a 10-foot roll of 3/8” (.375) on Amazon for $12. I have applied a 1/2” piece on each my carbon arrows to hopefully prevent any future splits when hitting something other than the appropriate target. The cost for each ½” was 5 cents. The brand I bought comes in 10 colors plus clear. It also comes in various diameters. It can shrink to 1/3 of its original diameter so I think the resulting strength should be pretty good. A ½” piece weighs 1/7th of a grain.
Use a hair dryer or something similar. My first attempt at shrinking the tubing with a BernzOmatic torch didn’t work out so well.

Sanding the base of feathers
I have managed, over the years, to cut my left index finger a few times from the impact of the leading edge of a feather when shooting with less-than-ideal form. I always used to put an extra bit of glue on the front of the feathers after fletching. But sometimes the base of the feather was just too thick and it would catch either on the rest, or my finger. I solved this problem by using a feather clamp before glue-up to hold the feather and sanding it lightly so that it is paper thin at the front. It takes very little sanding and results in a very clean, smooth connection at the front end. Sand the entire length but put more pressure on the front. This will ensure a straight base on the feather. No more finger cuts!

Hope these tips are helpful

[Kodiak Fan]

Nice information.  I will try the shrink wrap.  Thanks.  JV

[McDave]

Thanks for the helpful hints!

I have stabbed myself more than I want to with quills on the leading edge of feathers.  One thing I have found is that when I rotate my arrows in the fletcher every 15 minutes, the glue has set up, but is not completely dry.  This means that if I press down on the leading edge of any quill that is not well seated, it will become seated on the shaft and stay there.

[Rob DiStefano]

With all feather fletchings I use fletch tape exclusively.  At times I've also used "lining" or "pinstripe" vinyl tape in 1/8" to 1/4" width to secure around the shaft and front tips of the feathers.  This very thin tape will stretch a bit and I give it 2 to 3 wraps.  After wrapping I coat the tape with clear nail polish to keep the tag end from lifting.  A wider 3/8" to 1/2" width of this tape can also be used to strengthen woodies just behind the point, as that's an area prone to snapping whence hitting hard objects.

Also good to note that any weight added to the aft/nock end of an arrow will increase its dynamic spine to some degree, which is the opposite of adding weight to the point end of an arrow, only a bit more so.

[Walt Francis]

I wrap mine with thread:

[Larry m]

Thumbs Up on the wire shrink wrap idea. I'll certainly give it a try.

As far as the sanding of the leading end of the fletch it brings up the lack of quality in fletching anymore. Previously it was not an issue with a little dab of glue but lately the quill on some of what I'm getting justifies what you're suggesting.

Thanks for your post.........  

[Wudstix]

I'll give the wire shrink wrap a try on front and back of woodies.
 

[Pat B]

I've been wrapping the forward end of the fletching for years for hand protection, generally with silk thread. The last few years I started using deer backstrap sinew to wrap the forward and rear ends of the fletching but also a wrap just below the self nocks.

[rich k]

Nicely done!

[Wheels2]

I don't sand the front edge of the fletching but I do add a small drop of fletching cement there as well as on the back of the base.  Helps to keep them from pulling loose in targets.

[Honest Jon]

Rich K,
Your comment about thinning the front of feather fletching quills is a great one. I think I get too hung up on keeping the quills even throughout the entire length. Thin toward the front really does help them lay down close and reduces “OUCH”!
Honest Jon

[Onski316]

I have a semi serrated Spyderco Delica 4 that the curved area of the serration works perfect for scraping residue off arrows. I only shoot carbons and the blade will typically slide on the carbon rather than slice or cut into it.

[Rob DiStefano]

Canadian Goose fletchings acquired from the backyard pond make super waterproof fletchings.  Fletch tape for shaft adhesion.  I just scrape or emery board sand the front fletch base to angle it down and then apply a healthy dot of Duco cement.  Hard to beat goose feathers for great fletchings that shed rain like water off a goose's back 

[Mint]

Nice feathers Rob!

[Zing]

Is the split arrow still holding together ?  I might have to try this out, sounds like a great idea, thank you for sharing>

[Philbow]

My first attempt at shrinking the tubing with a BernzOmatic torch didn’t work out so well. 

This sounds exactly like something I would do, like you, once.

[Longtoke]

Good tips! thank you for sharing.

Anyone else like to rub/ burnish some thin CA glue into their carbons when you see a little scuff or scrape appear?  I feel like it seals them back up nicely and gives me piece of mind.  I always give them a good flex and tap test before shooting, but I feel like I extend the life of my arrows this way.

[Longtoke]

I am going to try some thread soaked in CA glue around the end of my fletch on my next set of boo arrows.  seems like a good idea to me.