Light bow gpp?

[the rifleman]

I've read and applied the 8-10gpp recommendations in  the past.  Recently I have dropped bow weight to around 35# at my draw---I list the poundage for what it is worth as I feel more important is the performance---speed and weight of arrow.
My bow is shooting a carbon express predator ii .800 with 40 grain outsert and 125 stinger at 148 fps.  These arrows are very well tuned, but total weight is only 358 grains.  10 gpp.
My other option is Heritage 75 with 200 grain tip which takes me down to 136 fps and total arrow weith of around 480 grains.  13.71 gpp.
I really like the predator combo as I shoot this arrow with a 125 field point for 3D and it tunes perfect for me.
I still need to do some fine tuning with the Heritage combo if I were to use it.
My question for those of you that have actual experience with lighter weight bows and arrow combos, is it better to forsake the lighter arrow that is within the 8-10gpp for something as heavy as almost 14 gpp?  I know at some point you reach diminishing returns when increasing weight, jut not sure when.  I plan to deer hunt with this bow and trajectory is the least of my concerns as I shoot out to only 20yds hunting, with 10-15 being optimal.  Any help would be appreciated.

[McDave]

It would be fairly inexpensive to find out.  A 145 grain point on an 1816 cut to 28” would give an arrow weight of about 438 grains, or 12.5 gpp at 35#, which is probably about as heavy as you would want to push it.  Try that and see what you think.  If it seems too clunky, you could always change the point out for 125 grains, which would probably work fine at 35# as well.

On the other end of the spectrum, I have found that lighter weight bows seem to tolerate lower gpp than would be recommended in heavier weight bows.  I commonly shoot 7 gpp out of my 40# bow for 3D.  As this is pushing it, one should be sure to check to see that the bow can handle it.  The bowyer who made my bow said no prob.

[DeerSpotter]

John,

I cannot say from experience. But with the bow that I have it is
 56" 38# @ 28" but I have been advised to go just a little bit heavier.  It has been recommended to me to stick around the TAW 420-435.  You don't have to worry about the trajectory of the arrow because you're not going to be shooting beyond 30 yards.  Most of your shots are going to be between 10 and 15 yards.  The most important thing is your business end of the arrow and I think you are ready know that.

Sharp and tuned we'll be your best bet.  If you have something you are ready like working with I wanted worry about the speed.  You're heavier arrow is going to have more impact, especially if sharp at the business end.

I'm sure there's more experienced ones on here that will chime in later.  The bow that I have at 38 #  is a hybrid longbow Pika from Dan Toelke.  He is a wealth of knowledge. When you buy a bow from him you get an education.

Carl       <------------<<<<

[the rifleman]

Thanks for the thoughts.  I kind of think 358 is a luttle in the light side, but they do fly good.

[mahantango]

I shoot .800 spine carbons with 85 gr. nibbs out of my 30# target recurve. These are a hair over 300gr. Really don't like the trajectory of anything over 10gpp, and try to keep all my set ups close to that so trajectories are similar.

My wife has killed a bunch of deer with bows that were and are 37 to 38 pounds at 26" plus.  Her arrows have been 27" bop 1816s with the long adapter and 125 grain heads and 27" bop cedars with Bears, Eskimos and 120 grain Hunter's Heads.  She had one deer that did not have two holes, that was a right rump hit with a 125 Grizzly on a cedar, total arrow weight 430 grains.  the deer jumped on the shot, the arrow ended up in the far left shoulder with the entire arrow inside the deer. All of the others had either two holes or were pass throughs.  She hunts on the ground and the shots were 15 to 25 yards on 7 of her deer. One was 18 feet, the one that jumped on the shot.  She was sitting on a downed tree trunk with no cover.  Getting the arrow straight behind the head is the key for good penetration.  It is easier for me to get quicker recovery and better arrow flight with Wapiti cedars out of lighter bows.

[the rifleman]

Thanks Pavan.  I have used wapiti arrows in another bow with good results.  I have some 5/16s 42# cedars that show stiff at 20 yds.  Do you think 36# sitka spruce or cedar in 5/16 would work?

What bow are we talking about and how close to center shot is it?  Generally one can get by with stiffer arrows, especially in lighter bows.  i wonder if there is not something else going on.   In my backyard these kind of little mysteries can be figured out in minutes.  Even if we have all of the possible info, it still ends up being only suggestions.

[the rifleman]

It is a Toelke Pika.  40@29.  I am drawing it 26.5".  Not sure on centercut, i believe it is cut a bit before center.  It does shoot the .800s very well w 125 tip and 40 gr outsert.  Bareshafts with these fly right down the pike.  The cedars hit center at 15, but are to the right at 20, so it could be an aiming issue with wider shaft?